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just wondering

2 Nendo 6.5s, gonna be bedlined, building these things fast got about 3 hours of work into them if that so far, just need more resin, lil mat and theyll be ready to be sprayed. trimmed up and resin pooled in, solid as fuck now, bout to do a few more coats of resin on the fronts, give em a light sand n shoot.. have pics later today or tomorrow. stay tuned

WOW !!! Awesome Vids !!!

Good luck with your build.

Very nice sub, I have played with 15's and 12's. What are your plans?

Awesome drivers. Pretty much in their own category of bang for that buck. Was just in Fargo last weekend....although not in a vehicle with Gcon's.

The SSA store carries 2 lines of prebuilt enclosures, the Khaotik brand are truly exceptional (and priced to match) and their Xtreme brand which have all appearances of being way better than the cheap Wal*Mart/flee market Chinese crap quality. I paid for SSA to design me a ported box for my XCON and couldn't be happier. Welcome to the forum, there are some of the most knowledge car audio gurus in existence here.

The Brazilian amps use a different tech where the voltage is jumped way up, meaning the current goes down. Brazilian amps (on average) are more efficient this way and they need much less heat sink and internal parts (capacitance) making them much cheaper to build and smaller in size. On the other side of things, they are very sensitive to voltage fluctuation, tend to be noisy, usually run fans, and seem to have a little lower reliability record as they are usually not at all abuse tolerant. Korean/Chinese amps tend to be over built, very durable, usually don't need to run fans, more abuse tolerant, and are not very voltage sensitive. As on the other side of things, they are less efficient by the design, much more expensive due to far more heat sink and caps needed, and much larger in foot print. In the mass market here in the USA, customers are getting younger on average as the watts per dollar gets less. So that means there are more people who are much less experiences who are now able to buy larger/more powerful amplifiers. That lack of experience (and probably electrical system back bone to support said big power amps), leads to much more abuse on the amplifiers and voltage fluctuation. Adding up to a market that is best served by Korean/Chinese style amplifiers, which kind of points the Brazilian style amplifiers to the more experienced people who have stronger electrical systems. Shout out to Mike Dioguardo for the refresher on Brazilian amps.

Well more what I was thinking is how do the Brazilian amps like Stetson and taramps put out so many watts for the price compared to say ampere or sundown. Are the Brazilian amps any good for daily setups on music or are they just more geared toward competition burps? I myself have always ran the zenon Korean amps or some of the better Chinese amps but I keep hearing the younger crowd go on and on about these taramps and how powerful they are for the money. And then I have heard others say there junk that burn up super easy. So what's the truth to these rumors.

Lol do you think they'd even be relevant still if that was the case? Use your noodle.

Btw guys, my girl bought this for me. She loves bass and wants this to be our show truck. I found my wife lol

Ok guys, next up is Mark. The original founder of SSA/SSAudio, hails from upstate NY, but now resides in the valley of the sun. And remember on the questions, his member name is red.

Why do you suck at Halo so much?

Not sure where and why you've read you need a notch filter....unless of course you are looking at exotic cones with uber nasty breakup modes. If that's the case you should stop and use something else to run active first. Electronically it is rather easy IF you have a processor that allows it.

There is a huge difference in running a full range driver full range and only using part of the range. Where you read the need for a notch was to address breakup...so to avoid it don't pick a driver that has breakup in the range you will be playing it. 400-3500Hz?? Really? I assume you are attempting a 3 way, but if you've never run active I'd highly encourage against that in the first round. 2 way is your friend.

"keep up" and what your perception of "good enough" sound are the limiting factors. You've picked speakers so far that have NO midbass, NO upper midrange, and a top end that is brutally hot and needs taming. A little note on "keeping" up. In general it takes more budget for the front stage than the sub to achieve the same levels. Once you start limiting things out it severely hurts the response. A function of 6x the budget means you are going to have a lot of compromises. This means you can choose loud or sounds good, not both.

Fundamentally there are only two ways to damage a sub playing music through them. 1) Thermal overload: exceed the heat dissipating capability of the coil assembly 2) Mechanical: send a signal to the sub that causes it to move too far causing mechanical damage As for an efficient enclosure, amusingly I haven't heard that term being used like you imply; however, you can increase the output of a driver in a small section of the frequency range by tuning the enclosure to have more response there. Of course you lose elsewhere when you do this. Perhaps you were referring to EBP (Efficiency Bandwidth Product) which is a number that is calculated from sub parameters to help determine if it is better suited to a ported or sealed alignment.

It isn't about getting what you pay for and much of your cost will be integration and installation. The mid portion are difficult. Playing 80Hz at 140+dB isn't easy from a small diameter driver in particular if it isn't in an enclosure.

As with ANY part of the stereo the installation locations, budget, and goals determine what is purchased.

EBP = Fs / Qes

Most likely not necessary for an SQ sub. Nor is much power. The trick is going to not be the sub, but the front stage. There is a reason in the T&C for the site that you signed up to agree to not use the term SQ...

My guess as well. And yes, the cap is NOT helping. Yank it.

Not sure how many times we need to tell you to stop with the reviews. It's a TERRIBLE way to pick speakers. Exception being if they are measurement based with consistency in setup/comparison of course.

Pair of Gcons PORTED. That or up to a single 15" Xcon/Gcon ported. Size has NO correlation to boominess. Ported has no anti-correlation with SQ. Port tuning and unloading can be easily managed.

Pick a different shop. Rears are a waste as is tuning with an RTA. Curious why they recommended a 6 channel amp as well...

And instead of buying the 6 channel just get a 4 and bridge it to the fronts. Don't buy the rears and instead double the budget for the fronts and install. It'll sound 1000's of times better.

The best way to have 3D presence is to NOT have rears. All they will do is screw up all your aural cues confusing your brains capability to process the audio right creating a situation with no presence, but confusion. Since you bought them and have rear DVD's just shut them off otherwise. If you find you like them better on, then you need to spend more money on the install portion and not on equipment.

Again sign of a not so good shop. They shouldn't have surprise problems like that

In general for audio symmetric is not your friend. At sub frequencys it isn't usually a big deal...but looks weird to me

Are you high? SQ, rofl. In general you could have done way better in the same space.

Ah, subjectivity. Amusing what the human body perceives without a comparison. SQ is FAR from the design criteria of the DD drivers.

Non-peaky would be a start. Not the topic of this thread, but the DD were designed with output in mind not a linear response so they may be appropriate for the OP.

And again you NEED to know a box size BEFORE shopping. Thought this was pounded home in your last thread.

No watts ain't just watts. Take a 1000 watt dual Walmart amp and switch it out for a audison or arc and see what a huge difference in sound it makes. But power has got cheaper that for sure. I paid almost a thousand in 96 for two Phoenix gold amps M100 and M50 and they barely made 1k and 500 watts. Now you can get 5k watts for the same money. But for some reason the market has moved away from subs that are efficient and don't need much power to get loud to huge monster subs that need 3 alternators worth of juice to realize there true potential. But back to your question a watt is not just a watt there are other factors that make a good amp sound better then a cheap flea market amp. ie damping factor, crossover slopes, and little things like what kind of metals are used in them. If all amps where the same everybody would just buy hifonics or audiopipe