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Have used the damore and or usainvolt meters in almost every build weve done. Both are the best out imho. Had a dakota digital in my old build in my car back in the day. Was nice also. Now, we Have a high volt damore one in the burb up front watching the high volt side. Also, 2 cheap ones off ebay in the rear to watch 12v and 16v sides in the rear. Just for quick monitoring. With all that, we still never go anywhere with out our fluke, and keep in plugged in at all times, set to MIN/MAX when testing, and in the lanes to see exactly whats going on. All depends on how much ya wanna spend, and how dork you wanna get. If you just want a "quick" refernce, a cheap ass meter will "do". If you want to see exactly whats up, nothing beats a DMM imho. Love the min/max option.

Could not agree more. Something that "plotted" over time, you could go back and look at would be cool. Thats cool you say that. I have an older fluke 96b meter. Had it for some time. Never really got to deep with it. My understanding is ( after i finally downloaded the manual and did a quick sniff around) its somewhat capable of recording, over a set time, peaks and valleys. Im not exactly sure how it works, or what exactly it shows. I need to play with it A LOT more. TBH, its a bit over my head.

Gcon may be the best bang for the buck driver on the market. If this were a pair I might be dumb enough to expand my collection.

Going to have to go up north and grab you a whole dispatched hog for $100.

Yes. I should reference that since I have at least 10 different tweets at home I haven't shopped recently, definitely haven't shopped in that price range or less lately, and have not heard that driver since it is no longer a Vifa (although the pic says otherwise, lol). For a budget tweet that one is great and easy to blend with about anything.

Only real valid answer....but would be better if it logged the voltage over time with a fast refresh. Beyond that any super el cheapo would do the quick has something changed, but that something changed won't be shown when you need it most which is when you are playing shit full bore.

I did a gcon build with two 15's on an AP 1500 that did 151 something on music. They are an awesome sub! If this was a 12 I would pick it up.

We have our DioGuardo Engineering order in to carry the USainVolt shortly.

I was recently informed that Fi will have a support email with a dedicated responder. [email protected]

I loved my 8 18 icons doing 157.9 at 36hz on 6500rms. Jay c and I are working on a project together and it may just be EVIL..........

I am supprised the Kerf didn't split with the direction of the grain.... it would bend a bit easier with the outside grain going horizontal.. still a nice build though

You really need to identify the source of the rattle before you can eliminate it. If it is the trim panel rattling against the inner skin, the weather stripping you linked should be fine. You can be pretty sure that's the problem if you can stop the rattle by pressing your hand against the trim panel. More often than not, it's something inside the door rattling - actuator rods, window track, etc. The foam isn't likely to be useful in any of those scenarios. Key point is: identify the source of the rattle before you try to fix it.

I use Greot's all in one buffing compound, then after its all done I use their best of show paist wax to really make it pop. The most important thing is getting all the edges sealed really good, cause wood is porous and will just drink the paint, if it's not sealed good. Plus after you start wet sanding the paint, it would be really bad if any water made its way into the wood.

Yes I use Valspar high gloss black, then just any clear will work, and I use 400 grit to start with, then after many coats of paint, I use 1400 grit to smooth it out. You want to do like 5-6 thin coats, to give it that deap shiny look. Then after I have all the paint, and clear done, I polish it just like you would a car. Polish, then a good wax if you want to really make it pop, and hide any imperfections. I use Greot's garage all in one correcting cream, and a orbital buffer, but I got a detail shop so I already have the stuff, but you can do it by hand just fine, just takes longer.