Lord Baccus

thank you

i forgot to mention i did it @ 12v i cant wait to get a bigger (200amp) alt and hook up those huge batterys i got

i got in a hurry and made a booboo cutting the holes for the subs & had to use the SS T4 as they fitt tighter !!!

1st run 150.7db 2nd run 150.1db charge batterys a few min. 3rd rub 151db got 1st place

Agreed all Maxxsonics amp are middle of the road amps... not the best / not the worst... the problem occures when people mount the amp to the BOX and the subs pound the caps in the amps loose then they break off and the amp smokes... as long as the amp is mounted somewhere other than ON THE BOX, it should last a wile but as stated above i dont think they do rated !!! but still will do the 1ohm stable that 3000 is a PEAK ratting so @ best your gonna get 1100/1500watts total RMS

i need to figure out how im gonna power this beast

last night i picked up a "Massive Audio" 3000.1 took pics but forgot the camera @ home today, will post pics tonight http://www.massiveaudio.com/broadband/prod.../pro/p3000.html

after installing the Moabs... i hitt the lanes and did a 147.1db couldent understand why the Spl leveled off and would not got up??? on the way home i could hear this annnnoing buzzzzzzzzing from behind the sub enclosure after a week of searching i found it... where the cab is WELDED to the FLOOR has BROKEN.... the MOABS broke the freeking spotwelds that hold my truck together....... and im getting a Massive dual-3000.1 = 6000watts this week and ditching the SoundStream 2000d

what is a plate amp ?

I would hope not Thank you

go to win

just ordered another Soundstream Pca 2000d going to strap em and do 4000k @ 2ohm on 4-15" Soundstream T4 subs now i have to figure out how to do a wall ? or just a hella-big boxx

Thank you ... it was 40 degrees with 20mph winds... day after the tornado....

Saturday in Dallas TX did a 143.0db using the sealed box @ 38Hz got 1st place Sunday in Ft Worth TX did a 147.1db using a 8cf ported @ 40Hz got 2nd place with 2 MOABS & 2000watt Mono-block

these things are sweet for SQ and saturday & sunday i have competition on both days Sat in Dallas Tx http://www.soundandimage.20m.com/ Sun in Ft Worth Tx http://www.texasbassproductions.com/scheudle.htm going to see how they preform sealed then ill build a killer ported box so they can streach there legs Pap also makes a sub called "WMD" ( Weapon of Mass Destruction )

Mother of all Bass http://www.pierceaudioproducts.com/

they had 1 for me to test @ competition did a 143.2db before the amp had a heart attack @ 0.5ohm ported @ 45Hz box specs: built to PaP directions...i modded the freq to match the cabin gain in my truck with 2 of em i should be able to get close to 149db these things get freekin loud @ low freqs... he had 1 from o6' laying around and i needed it for testing here in Dallas TX... Pimpin twin Moabs in Big "D" :twisted: i got these over @ http://www.Deathbydb.com

it has arrived the box is an ( HB215 ) Probox lent to me by Quality for testing the res-freq of my truck

can someone please help: i need step by step instruction as to how to do it: 1. get out Dmm 2> hook Dmm to ? 3. set Dmm to ? 4. special clamp ? 5.ect ect ect... i have never done this and it is kind of frustrating not knowing how too, if i need a clamp ill get 1 asap

so i hook the + / - to the speaker terminals and set the DMM to AC , do i set it to Peek Hold ? then i get the highist # and x 14.6v = accual wattage ?

??????????? ummmmmmmmmmmm ?????????????????? how is the process done from start to finish ?

ok so say iv never done this and i have a Dmm... i hook up + / - to ( ?) speaker out on the amp ? set the Dmm to 20v AC ? DC ? set peek hold ? yall are assumming we know what to do with the Dmm... someone please explain how to go about getting the proper reading. how is the Dmm used ? do i disconnect anything ? all iv ever done with a Dmm is check ohm load & see if my batterys are 12.85v, & checked the alt to see if i was getting 14.4v

P=V*I by definintion. One of the discussions on here previously was whether, since the coil of the driver shifts the phase of the current in relation to the voltage, you could simply multiply RMS voltage by RMS current and get power or if you have to actually account for the phase shift. My take is that since it is the current that is doing the work and the voltage is simply inducing the current IAW Ohm's law, you can simply multiply them out. Ummmmmmm ??? in english please... or something a lil simpler to understand i dont do math well