socialstealth

the DC suggestions are: ported: 1.5 ft3 SPL ported: 2.0 ft3 Whats the difference between ported and SPL ported? Will the 1.5 ported sound 'better' ? I'm guessing the 2.0 "SPL ported" throws all SQ out the window? what frequency do you think I should tune the box to? going to be run on an SAE1200 @ 1 ohm i listen to punk pop rock sedan

Is the SAE1200 'roughly' as efficient as the SAZ1500 ? Assuming both are @ their rated RMS @ 1 ohm (both are the newest model amps) I plan to run a dc lvl 4 12'' in a ported box @ 1 ohm on my SAE1200. I'll run it for several hours a day as its my daily driver... Do you think I will need a fan to elongate my amp's life? I plan to have my amps inside a false floor, so circulation may be needed. Will having the fan on ALL the time (whenever the car is on) damage the amp? I've heard that amps are made to run at a certain temperature and a fan that runs even when the amp is cold can damage it? My main concern is with the above quote, obviously you think adding a fan will cause noise. If I do put a fan, where do you think it should go to cause the least amount of noise? Is there a part of the amp that should be 'farthest' from the fan? Sort of like RCA's are supposed to be as far as possible from power wires.

Hmmm..... maybe I will go 2 way... is this a good woofer for a 2 way: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 SEAS Prestige CA22RNX (H1288) 8" Coated Paper Cone It plays 30-3000 hz I can get a pair of them for about $120 used. Are they a good option? Any better woofers for under $120? What tweeter would be a good match for these? I'll probably go with an SAX 100.4d

For the end result, I'd like to be able to listen to the setup for long periods of time at full volume, as I like loud music. Its for my daily driver, I don't do competitions or anything of that nature. 3 way simply because people have suggested a 3 way over a 2 way. I also like a lot of punk pop rock music, which is midbass heavy, so I figured a dedicated midbass driver would be the way to go. I have a DC lvl 4 12'' that I'll be putting in my trunk, I'm not sure what I should tune the box to though.... as for mounting locations, I'll be making custom door pods for the midbass/midrange, and I'm completely unsure about where to put the tweeters or what tweeters im going to get. as far as money goes, I'd like to know which option is better for the money: an SAX amp setup, using the SAX amp's crossovers. Or buying amps without crossovers and using an external processing unit for crossovers. which one would be cheaper, and which one would be better?

I do not have an SAX, I haven't bought any amps yet. I'm deciding if its worth it to buy an SAX. Because if I need to buy an external processor, then there is no point in paying extra money for an amp with crossovers as amazing as the SAX's have. If its better to get a processing unit for my application, then I'd like to know what the best 'budget' headunit/amps/processor would be. Yes I will be using 8 channels, an active 3 way front stage as well as a sub in the trunk. So one set of RCA's will need to be run out of one of the amp's preamp outs. Adrian says this will cause time delay....so I guess this means I need a headunit with a time alignment feature?

Yes, but an SAX 50.4 cannot create a bandbass crossover when bridged. And I'm open to other amp suggestions if I can save money by getting amps without crossover features along with a sound processing unit with crossovers or headunit capable of crossovers.

I need to cross my tweets around 4k hz, mid range around 500-4000 and midbass around 50-1500 Not exactly sure on the crossover points yet, but its a rough idea of what i'd start with before I get into fine tuning it. I'm either going to use sundown SAX 100.4 for the tweets and mid range and SAX 125.2 for the midbass drivers WITHOUT AN EXTERNAL PROCESSOR, or buy cheaper amps without the crossover features and get an external processing unit with crossovers on it. Which do you guys think is a better option? any suggestions on cheaper, quality amps that lack the crossover features (maybe I'll go for 3 sax 50.4's and bridge each of them ) Any suggestions on a budget processor with good crossovers that I can go active with? Cheaper is better, and I'm ok with buying used. the sax100 & sax125 will cost me about $450, so amps + processor should be less than that. Are there headunits available that have crossover capabilities that will allow me to go active without an external processing unit?

Thanks ya know, i've been thinking, if you made an internal fan system inside the amp casing, you could either maintain the same reliability with lesser heat sinks, and smaller cases, or just improve the design all together. I imagine the cost of plastic fans to be rather cheap, compared to the potential it has to regulate heat. what do you think of this?

will the 125.2 be able to cut off frequencies under 40 hz and above 3000 hz?

is the perfect shape for an enclosure a sphere? Would rounded internal edges be better than 45 degree angles? Just curious

which would you recommend for the midbass woofer mentioned above, a sax50.4 bridged, or an sax125.2, or sax100.2 ?

i think it was ///m5 he said having an active 3 way setup with 2 sources of crossovers (a sax400.4 and sax125.2) might cause one set of speakers to play ahead of another and cause some type of distortion//echo. do you run a 3 way active setup? Which amp do you think is more efficient, a sax 125x2, 100x2, or 50x4 bridged to 2 channels?

to make a kerfed slot, cant you just cut the shape out several times, stack them, and glue the peices together? this would be stronger and thicker than just cutting slots in the wood, right? how do you calculate a kerfed slot port tuning frequency?

Jacob, I want to run these speakers in a 3 way active setup: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8441 (and idk what tweeters, any suggestions?) Will a SAX100.4 be able to supply enough power for the mid range (they're 8 ohm)? I think I may use an sax 125.2 to run the midbass woofers, do you know the ratings of the SAX 125.2 @ 8 ohms? Some people have said that I will run into problems going active with these amps, do you think these amps will work? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated

what are double baffles, kerfed ports, etc ? what would you suggest I do with the box? Take a look at Custom Fabricators (Pound That Sound, Audible Customs and Fisher Customs). They custom build enclosures and you can see the great work they do and also what a double baffle and Kerf Port look like. I looked through some of the fabricator's sections and did some google research, but I still have a question... I've read that 'parallel sides' can cause 'standing waves'. Does this mean the sides should be angled? or would 45 degree corners solve this issue? If not, What are the 45 degree corners for? Any idea where I can find a formula for slotted kerfed tuning?

what are double baffles, kerfed ports, etc ? what would you suggest I do with the box?

Slotted just means a slot (square) vent using 1 wall of your box. Ported is either a round or slot port. Whats the difference between them? does one have any advantage over the other?

here is a pic of my trunk: I have a 12'' DC lvl 4 sub. I drive a sedan. I like to listen to a lot of pop rock // pop punk // metal music, some have fast bass drums//guitars I think I'm going to go with some type of ported box, which should I go with? a slotted, vented, ported, or what? Can anyone help me design a box for my subs? I also don't know which way to port it, towards the trunk? I'd like to have the box toward the side of the trunk, so I can still fold down the back seat and access the trunk.

I'm interested in this question as well, Will a sealed box allow notes under 30 hz? The lower the frequency the more vibrations you feel, right?

Crap really? I guess 3 way is going to go out the window. Back to the drawing boards........what comps would you guys suggest for a pop-rock active 2 way? I bought a 12'' dc lvl 4, Idk what I'm going to tune it to though. Do you think these SEAS 8'' midbass drivers are still a good choise? http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 I'm planning on a 2 way active w/ the SAX100.4 They're 8 ohm drivers, 80w rms. Anyone think the SAX100.4 can get close to 80wrms@8 ohms? Do you think an SAX125.2 for the midbass and an SAX50.4 bridged for the tweeters would be better? or maybe the sax50 bridged for the midbass and the sax125 or an sax100 for the tweets? because I can get an sax50 for $150 and an sax125 for $135

Alright I think I'm going to go with a 3 way active setup. As for mounting the amps, I'm thinking of making a false floor under the rear seats (idk if there will be enough headroom for rear passengers if I do...) Or a false floor in the trunk. I'll make the floor out of fiberglass and have a system of fans to keep the air moving. Any suggestions on what I mentioned above, or some other good mounting ideas?

Do you think a 3 way active is "not worth it" ? A 2 way active will be a lot cheaper (about -400 for mid range and amp compared to a 3 way active)

Those could work well. What mounting locations? What processing? And IMO a 3 way passive that wasn't designed IN CAR isn't worth doing. If you want 3 way in your car you NEED to do it actively. Yeah I was thinking either 2 way passive or 3 way active. by "processing" do you mean an external EQ or something? All I had in plan were the SAX amps & my excelon kdc x790 headunit should I get some type of epicenter or whatever they're called? And those mid range speakers are rated 150w (idk if thats rms or peak??) and are 8 ohms...how am I going to get 150w @ 8 ohms and the midbass drivers are rated 85w rms @ 8 ohms :\ What type of setup would you recommend for these? Do I need external processing? would it be better to get something that can adjust all the crossovers, then use that and get amps that don't have functions like the SAX 100.4 does?

Whats the power handling at 6 and 8 ohms? ...I see that the SAZ3000 only puts out 800 watts at 4 ohms, which is pretty shocking!

Someone is also selling a set of rainbow components for about $120: Rainbow SLC 265 Kick Components http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=7032 the guy selling them says they're 4ohm Which would you guys recommend? Are the rainbow tweets any good? Maybe I can use the rainbow tweets, the rainbow midbass driver as a 'full range' driver, and get the 8'' seas midbass driver for lower bass? or is that a retarded idea? lol. The aim is toward pop-rock music btw. I also found a pair of CDT TW-25 tweeters for about $70, would they work well with the seas midbass and morel mid range?