Everything posted by socialstealth
-
Which amps would you recommend?
I can get these on craigslist for $300 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8441 Sound like a good deal? What tweeter would you guys suggest with them?
-
Which amps would you recommend?
Well the best price//quality mix is what I'm looking for. But cheaper is always better I'm not sure what front stage I'm going to get. A lot of things I see are 6 ohm and 8 ohm, are sundown amps compatible with 6/8 ohm speakers? Maybe I'll just go passive and make things easier.... is there THAT big of a difference in sound between active and passive?
-
Which amps would you recommend?
oh, and are the multi channel SAX amps similar to the SAE amps in the respect that they're under rated? basically, am I going to really get 150w or something per channel out of the SAX 100.4 or is its rating accurate? Any efficiency testing done on the SAX series?
-
Which amps would you recommend?
I'm going to go ahead and have my SAE 1200 run a DC lvl 4 12'' sub. I haven't decided on a front stage yet, I'm looking to run an active 3-way midbass//mid range//tweeters I think I'm going to go with the SAX 100.4d BUT I need another amp! Should I use the SAX 100.4 for the mid range and tweets? or the tweets and midbass? or the midbass and midrange ????? And what other amp should I use? SAX 50.4 bridged? or ... ? suggestions and explanations why please
-
SAX-50.4 and Z15 Close-Out Sales
Trying to buy amps because your electrical isnt good, still does not help your electrical system out at all (you need to also worry about making simple upgrades to your electrical system like the Big 3). A bad electrical sytem will cause amplifiers to hot quicker, unstable voltage (more drops) and less power since you can keep your voltage high. Well I bought a cheap "140 amp" alt off of ebay for my car ($200) I've heard mazda proteges (my car) are unable to achieve more than 80 amps, due to the fact that the car's ECU regulates the voltage. So IDK....I have done the big 3 though. I've never tested my electrical...I just assume its bad lol.
-
SAX-50.4 and Z15 Close-Out Sales
whats better about them? Just better components? or more options? what extra features?
-
Deadening
Seems like a generic brand. I'd recommend RAA mat, second skin, dynamat. I have a second skin coupon for 15% off for sale, and 24 sq ft of dynamat Xtreme for 75$ + shipping or local pickup
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
I haven't bought a sub yet...and I'm starting to change my mind on which sub to buy... can anyone chim in some info on the last post here: which subs are you deciding between? Well originally I was thinking a 15'' lvl 4 DC, I found a 12'' lvl 4 DC for $225 so I might go with that....But I'm starting to think that instead of getting a 225$ sub I could settle for something cheaper and put that money towards a better front stage. I really don't know what I should get........could you help me out? heres some info from another post of mine:
-
SAX-50.4 and Z15 Close-Out Sales
I'm planning to go active, not sure with what components I'll be using yet, but I'm planning on a 3 way. (would a SD e8'' be a good midbass driver?) I'm deciding between a combination of: SAX 100.4 // SAX 125.2 // SAX 50.4 (will have to be bridged) Are there any advantages/disadvantages to any of these models? better crossovers, better heat sinks, more efficient (very important for me...my electrical isn't the best) Also are they able to handle 6ohm or 8 ohm loads? Thanks <<<<<sundown for life.
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
$365 shipped I can send pics to your cellphone or email
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
I haven't bought a sub yet...and I'm starting to change my mind on which sub to buy... can anyone chim in some info on the last post here:
-
First real system, what components?
I want to be able to feel the music INSIDE me! Bands like senses fail, rise against, devil wears prada, Thursday, from first to last, the used, my chemical romance, system of a down, armor for sleep, sky eats airplane, alesana, escape the fate, a day to remember, breaking benjamin, and a few lighter pop things like mayday parade, all time low, metro station, panic at the disco, etc. Those are the top bands I listen to. What kind of setup do you guys think would suit me? I have a kenwood excelon kdc x790 headunit. And a sundown SAE 1200 amp. I'm going to fiberglass new door panels and a new dash, so anything will fit. Looking to spend as little as possible, I'd put the max at $1000, but less is more. And I'm willing to buy things used. I'm starting to rethink the sub idea, maybe the DC lvl 4 is a bit overkill for my application. What do you guys think?
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
Is there a power test for the SAE 1200? I saw one for the SAZ 1500 but I can't seem to find the SAE's. I'd like to compare the efficiencies. Instead of making a new thread... What cross over functions do the sax125.2, sax100.4, and sax50.4 have? and what are the specs on the sax50.4 when bridged? I want to have a 3-way active front stage using a combination of sundown amps, are the crossovers on the amps good enough? and....does anyone think using an 8'' sundown woofer for midbass in a custom made door pod is a good idea?...
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
I think I remember reading somewhere that the SAE 1200 can put out close to 1500w? Is that true? or am I thinking of the SAE.v2 ? From what people tell me, the DC lvl 4 likes 1500w rms, but is rated 1000w rms for insurance purposes. I think I'll just keep whichever one doesn't sell first. Anyone want to buy a SAZ1500 or SAE 1200 ?
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
Can you explain why?
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
I have both amps, an SAE 1200 and an SAZ 1500. the sae is in my car the saz is in the box on my couch in my living room. SAE sells for about $200 SAZ for $350 (both new not refurb) Is the SAZ worth the extra $150 ? Is the SAE more 'power hungry' than the SAZ? I think I may sell the SAZ, because I just got it new and I might be able to get more for it. I've already been using the SAE for a few months and it has a few hairline scratches on the top of it.
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
So anyone want to buy a like new SAZ 1500? 10/10 cosmetic 10/10 mech
-
Should I use my SAE1200 or SAZ1500?
I'm planning on buying a 15'' DC lvl 4 sub (1000 rms, though underrated) Not sure if I want to have it ported or sealed yet. Its a daily driver, No competitions or anything like that. I have an SAE 1200d and an SAZ1500 Which one do you guys think I should use to power my sub? I don't plan to upgrade from this, and I will never strap on another amp. I have a pretty weak electrical so If one is more efficient than the other please let me know. Is the SAZ worth the extra money for my application? I'm going to be selling the one I decide not to use.
-
First real system, what components?
I have a pair of 6x9 JL evolution vr690ci coaxials, Should I custom fit them into my door as a bidbass driver? or did you mean something else when you said 'full range driver'. as a 'general recommendation', your saying I should probably put the tweeter next to the midbass driver in the door and face it toward me? Where do people usually put them when they face them toward the window shield? do you think a sundown amp is not 'sufficient' enough to go active with? My headunit has some crossovers on it, should I use the hu crossover AND the amp's crossovers ? or is it a one or the other type thing like EQ (i've heard you should only boost EQ options with 1 source, not have bass boost on hu, and amp etc)
-
which speakers can keep up with 2200 watts?
You guys mean to tell me that 2000w of sub power will overwhelm any configuration of front stage speakers??? That can't be possible.... Worst case scenario you could have several sets of tweeters to balance it out, but I think there must be something that can keep up with a substage like this. tweeters require a lot less power than subs to reach higher DB, so its not like your going to need 2000w of tweeters
-
so ive been wrong about asking stuff please help me now with component
Passive means you use the crossovers that come with a component set. Active means you use an amplifier with crossovers inside of it (like a sundown amp has) and you power the components separately. you use a 4 channel amp, tweeters on 2 channels and the midbass driver on the other 2 channels.
-
RE XXX components
kenwood excelon kdc x790 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDCX790/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X790.html?tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs Sorry for jacking this thread Someone was selling RE XXX's for 300$ so I thought I would ask here but I've decided to buy the drivers separate and go active
-
First real system, what components?
What exactly are horns and are they better than tweeters?
-
First real system, what components?
heh....I have the old 12'' kicker CVR's, the single coil ones, I have 2 of them..... Do you think I could use them as midbass drivers in my doors I've been trying to sell them but no one wants them because they're the older models. They're in good condition so it would be great to get some use out of them crutchfield says the kicker subs have a frequency response of 25-500 hz, and they say mid bass is 100>500 hz Would it be a good idea to use 12'' subs in my door, or is that retarded? most tweeters I've seen cut off at around 2000 hz, so would I need a mid-high driver for 500-2000 hz?
-
First real system, what components?
Well I'm custom molding my doors so I can fit any size speaker in there. One problem I might have however is the amount of door enclosure space, If I get a 8'' midbass driver, should i sort of make a sealed box for it inside the door? Should I go bigger than 8'' ? any suggestions on which driver for midbass I should get?