ppiflat10s

maybe... Ill get some for sure, but its hard for me to stop what im doing periodically and grab a camera. I like to just start and go til Im done, then take some pics...

I know I will have a better (louder/more powerful) system down the road, I just KNOW that it will not be in this car. if I still own this vehicle a year from now (aside from dropping lots of coin on it for extensive repairs/mods) then I will consider myself a failure at life... lol and in my next vehicle, I will then get the 1/0, and use the 4 guage I got not to do the big 3 in the wifes car, as shes only got maybe 250-300 watts right now and will most likely only add a smaller 2ch amp for some front speakers and she doesnt care about her system as much as I care (Im the reason hers is how its at now even) Im startin to get a little excited about getting home and seeing all this stuff. hopefully Ill have some pics/vids up soon. will be sealed at first until I get my router, then Ill build the next best ported box Ive built so far.

which of you do I listen to though... some say dont need to some say do it. I probably will eventually, but I will definately put in the 4 to get it going before I get the 1/0. the subs I got cant take anymore power anyways, so wont upgrade the amp unless I get new subs as well, no rear speakers, so no additional amps after the 2 I got, so there wont be any more current draw for this setup than what its gonna pull now. Ill let you know how the 4 gauge treats me in the next week or so.

well, the cats out of the bag I guess, I was maddmatt02 when I first signed up here(and was just checking this on my moms laptop which I had used before and saved my account info), and I was talking about a system of a 15" BTL on a 1200D or something similar, but decided not to spend so much, and instead of seeming like someone full of crap rambling about stuff Im never going to buy and wasting peoples time, I started a new account to use from then on. I do actually have the stuff listed below sitting at my house and Ill be home on monday night and should at least get the deck in on tuesday. I got some catching up to do on the rentals maintenance though so maybe not.

damn, alright, I guess when I get home, Ill measure how much I need and hit up weldingsupply and order up some wire and ring terminals. guarantee i wont be upgrading this specific vehicle, and 2 gauge is 65% the cost of 1/0, so is 2 enough? the peices I cut for the big 3 may or may not work for the next vehicle, run from batt to block may or may not be too short for next vehicle, so I am not planning on running it 100% in whatever vehicle I get next. I will pay the extra for the 1/0 if I need it for THIS system, not for a plan of future upgrades. if I dont need it Ill just get the 2 gauge.

alright, I was thinking also about running the 4 gauge to the sub amp, and running the 8 I have (bought 4 gauge to put in the wifes car when I couldnt find the 8 I pulled out of her old car) to the 4 channel. since the front amp should be drawing around 20-25% of the current the sub amp will, might as well not have it off the same wire. but might as well give it a shot off the 4 gauge alone I guess, except the fact that the 8 gauge I already have is cheaper than buying a D block. and I think I might have enough 4 to do the big 3 with also, because I have some extra from the last install, as well as some extra in the package I just bought.

and you dont have to give it all the power that the saz is capable of producing, set the gain so your making less power.

I wonder if they are still located somewhere resembling C:/.......IMG_0225.JPG

I believe if you ran a pair of 4 ohm comp sets, and a 4 ohm sub on the same channel it would be 1.33 ohms, which Im pretty sure the SA amps wont do, dont think many amps do that. of course they probably would handle it if setup properly, but not under warranty. better run a 4 ohm DVC in series or an 8 ohm sub so you can have a 2 ohm stereo load.

get ready to hear why you shouldnt install those rear comps. also, I would have to bet that if you were running 4 ohm loads to each channel with the comps, and also ran a bridged sub off the same channels, and it was a 4 ohms sub, the 4 ohms would be "split" between the channels. so it would be like paralleling the 4 ohm load from the comps with the 2 ohm load from the sub(half). thats gonna be something I have to look up cuz i forgot the formula, its easy with similar ohm loads, but I dont know off hand how to do different ones.

what are you using to seal the box to the back of the cab? my truck is old as dirt, so its probably much worse with mine, but the bed definitely moves independently from the cab. looks damn good though.

I think my alt is only 80A, at least thats what OE replacements are for my car. I found a 220A for an accord, but its for the newer ones. I know in my mustang, running around 500RMS, I had some dimming(very minor) and did the big 3 in 1/0, as well as 1/0 to the amp and I had no dimming, my alt then was 95A I think. just did the 1/0 then because I got it on ebay with nice terminals used for dirt cheap, otherwise would have ran 4 then also. so I guess Im gonna go see if the 1/0 is still available. if I am going to run 1/0 is it ok to run it to under the seat and then run 4 gauge only about a foot to the sub amp, and then run x gauge speaker wire back to the box, so it would be about 6' speaker wire just to the box. is paralleled runs of 12 enough (already have it) or do I need to run bigger? and I know shorter runs of smaller wire can handle currents that require larger wire for longer runs, so is 4 still fine for the battery to ground, and block to ground, and maybe alt to batt if its a short run <4' trying to gauge how much I should buy.

alright, I have 4 guage wiring right now, not installed. and there is some 1/0 on here I was considering buying, but if I dont need it then why spend more money. I am going to do the big 3 in 4 gauge, there will be a run of probably 8+ feet to a D block under my seat where a 4ch amp will sit. it will enter a D block, and leave as 8 gauge to the 2ch. another run of 4 will leave the D block and make a trip of about 6+ feet to the sub amp behind the rear seat. I am going to set the gain on the sub amp at 800 watts, and not sure whats happening with the front stage, but worst case scenario - rear channels will be 100x2 and fronts 75x2. so Ill be pushing 1150 watts at the most. my alternator is only a 80A as far as I know from online searching. might get a HO someday, but I hope not because I dont want to be driving this car for very long, aside from the fact that I have to find one first. also I dont listen to the music cranked all the time, sometimes I dont have the subs cranked up at all, sometimes just enough to add a little to the music, and of course sometimes its up high to show it off. so I have no idea of the voltage drop Ill see, so no idea of the current the amps will be pulling. but is 4 gauge to the block enough, or do I need to run 1/0 for the big 3 and then to the block, and run 4 from there to the amp? any reason to not to have both amps under seats with a longer speaker wire length to the subs box? 4 gauge would be plenty then, correct? Im pretty sure there is plenty of room under the seats to mount an amp under each with sufficient clearance for them to radiate their heat away.

I think I know what you mean, and to me it sounds like it would be doing to same job its doing now. but is there anyway you could post a pic of the problem, and a pic of your solution so we can see for sure what you mean.

what led to your XXX failure so soon? too much power, crap box, clipped signals. I could talk trash about polk subs, but in reality it was just that it was my first set of subs and smoked them being an idiot...

thats fine, but just concentrate on getting a nice set installed... up front. take the budget you had for a 2 sets of comps and an amp for both, and just get one bigger 2 ch amp and a better set of comps for the front.

I owned a pair in a ported box built to alpines specs, and they worked more than "fine", damn loud for a somewhat inexpensive pair of 12's. (got mine for 228/pair new) wifes 12 is only in 1.5 ft^3, thats what they recommended, thats what I did. and got good results from doing so.

what do you load your bong with? I know I used to load a "bowl" in mine, and yes I know for a fact it works that way.

when did you email them? not everyone can email you back right away, maybe they just got backed up a day or 2 on emails? everyone on here loves anything they get from FI, so I wouldnt just count them out right away, and it seems like they usually have pretty good CS also from reading other posts on this board. Im the same way as you, always want something better than the other guy, but want something different than everyone, and if possible, that noones even heard of. how much money you willing to spend on subs? how big is the box able to be? how much power you thinking of throwing at them? maybe look at some IA stuff.

was the person that told you they compared to an IDMAX and a W7, trying to sell you a set of the RSD 12's? not trying to imply that they are no good, but if there was something that compared to a W7, or an IDMAX for 110 bucks I think just about everyone and their mom would own a set. of course I also dont know how long they have had the "instant $210.00 savings"

I bet the UPS driver likes coming to your house to pick up all these heavy bastards.

what are the dimensions of the area you have to work with?

Ive seen those before...

looks good, I like how you can still easily get to the spare.

when you say normal dual ported box, do you mean a prefab you buy from car toys or something? if so then the answer is probably a no, ive seen some prefab boxes before, that were either real shy on the port area, or just had real high tuning frequencies, or... best to build/have built a custom box so it fits the vehicle better and works with the subs better. and sealed should be more accurate to an extent, but a good ported box sounds just fine and will be louder.