ppiflat10s

ok, well, apparently am a very impulsive and impatient person... just bought a factory refurb infinity reference 475a (75x4@4 ohms), got it for 80 after tax and shipping, so Im pretty happy. I have also been researching building my own passive crossovers, splitting my front output and running the amp 4ch, setting one xover at a ~70-80Hz HPF (not sure where I will LP the subs) and building a LP to cut the highs out of the mids at a freq I decide after more research. and then of the other 2 channels run full range and build a HPF for the tweets. I know going active (which this really isnt a legitimate setup anyways) isnt recommended for a beginner, but oh well, if it could work, Ill try it. also, what kind of frequencies become noticable for the rear of the vehicle. if I built a set of crossovers to run mid and tweet from the front channels, but HP the setup a little higher and bridge the rear channels and HP them right above the sub, and run a LP to the point right before sound gets really directional and run one 8 on the rear deck or something for a little more powerful midbass. it would be ran IB basically so not sure how good it would work.(just a crazy idea I have and no clue if it would work) about getting my RCA's to the front/rear on the amp, only from the front output on the deck (pioneer swaps the rear speaker leads to the same LPF the subs get, right?) could I just run the fronts into the amp, and then run a short 1 foot length of RCA's from the output to the rear input? or should I split the signal before the amp? thanks for the help, cant wait to get home and install all this stuff.

none of my stuff had really been more than another, my HU, my sub amp/wiring, and my trio of subs have all been within about 15 bucks of each other. I actually want my comps/amp combo around the price of those 3, which would be around 150, willing to spend a bit more, but dont want to make the front stage way more than anything else because bass is really my primary concern, only reason I wanna amp the front speakers is so I can still hear the rest of the music and the words when I have it cranked. my price range includes Cadence CWM6, MB Quart FSA216, JBL GTO607C (2 ohms), PG RSD 6CS, Kicker DS650.2, Alpine SPS-600C, Clarion SRQ1620S, Audiobahn ABC600V. no other research has gone into those choices. audiobahn is in there because they are only 50 bucks shipped and Ive owned 1 amp, a set of 6x9's and 4 subs from them and have always been perfectly fine with their performance and reliability, especially for their price tag. amps Im looking at are kicker zx250.2, cadence zrs2002, PG Ryval V752, and Diamond D1 250.2. also watching used amps waiting for a good deal. also, I have an idea with comps but before I even get into it, what is the normal xover point on a set of passives?

alright, and yeah, factory locations are 6.5's Ill take a look at those, I might end up with more power for them, depends on what good deals there are when amp shopping time comes around.

and I know if I was your friend Id never go anywhere with you in your car if you were throwing 6k watts at an 18 all day long.

alright, system consists of pioneer premier DEH-600UB, hifonics BXi1208D pushing 3 ppi PCX102's in 3.5 cubes at 35Hz (when I build the box, lol), no rear speakers I am going to get a small 2ch amp for the front speakers and disable the internal amp in the HU, but if I buy comps, the doors will not be deadened right away, and will probably only be some ~75 dollar comps like some alpine type s, phoenix gold, etc... and the amp will only be giving them anywhere from 60-100 watts per channel at 4 ohms. coax's would be mounted in doors as would the midbass and tweets would go on the door panels right by the dash. should I just get coax's and amp them right away? get comps and amp them right away? get comps and run off HU and deaden doors right away and save for the amp?

alright, I think I remember that about right, Im pretty sure it was under 2 , but back then I just used there dimensions, dont remember the actual size or tuning frequencies, but when I doubled the box for 2 off a NINe.1 the output was insane for the price of those subs, one of the best outputs/$$$ subs ive ever owned. and they sound good too.

oops

what kinda box you gonna put it in? I ran one in a ported box built exactly to alpines spec off of around 350 watts and it was pretty impressive.

ok, I just know in a for sale thread, right after you posted that you sent him a pm, he then posted that the 1200D and the XXX were sold, so I wasnt sure, and if I had a XXX I dont think Id sell it, would have taken me way to long to save for it...

loudest ive ever sat in was either 2 punch hx2's ported off of 2 bp300/1's or a pair of new type r's off a NINe.1, both trunked setups, both 12's. nothing too extravagent yet.

Id bridge the rear channels and wire the subs to a 4 ohm load instead of running them in 2 ohm stereo

he might mean hell run each D1 sub at 2 ohms? for a final 1 ohm load? wouldnt make sense to me to get a final 2 ohm load, when the amp he was thinking about makes most power at 1 ohm.

not sure about that amp, im guessing its a planet audio big bang series? so thats not 2400 RMS is it? 1200 maybe? probably more than that Im guessing though, and your amp probably just cannot get the current it needs to make that much power through 4 gauge, move up to 0 guage to the amps and for the big 3. are you gonna make a new box just for the comp and put the current box back in? or are you going to leave the new box in always? if its only for the comp then you could tune it pretty high, but if you are going to leave it in I wouldnt go too high or it wont be very musical for a day to day basis.

if you were looking at the RE audio MT's, then I would guess you just wanna be loud, and from what I was told on here, the RLP isnt really meant for that purpose. I mean Im sure they get loud, probably not as loud, but should sound good doing it, and from what Ive heard the whole point of the MT is to just get loud. so Id look at other subs, if you wanted to get something off this site, check the FI BL's, or even BTL's for those prices, and if you did want to get loud and sound good, the XCON is much cheaper than the RLs, and I have no idea how they compare but everyone is impressed with their xcon around here.

ok not gonna lie, thats kinda confusing to me and I was planning on a 2400 kinetic batt per amp, 220amp alt(220 output at 1800rpm), and big 3? big 3/0 gauge wire you mean? So its only gonna put out 3100 at 1ohm? if I remember right, the 4500 was one of the last amps tested, so the battery was a bit drained. if you have a very solid electrical you could see a bit more, and if you ran it at a lower ohm load (not sure its recommended to) you'd see a ton more than that 4650 if the voltage didnt drop to 11.6 volts.

I guess I never had a sub with as much force as that monster, so I underestimated it. but I was installing a kitchen sink once, laid a bead on the bottom of the lip and dropped it in, and couldnt really fit myself under the sink in the cabinet and get my hands inbetween the cabinet sides, wall, and the sink itself and took too long to get the dawn hardware on, and by the time I did, it was already too late. it wasnt fully cured but it was FAR from fresh. I had to scrape it off and have someone smaller start the hardware for me second time around. might as well listen to the pros on here though and not me...

is it the WMD or whatever or did you get yourself a RE XXX?

alright, well, I am just going to use abs or pvc, not going to buy those ports. so I'll try to run 4 4" ports and see what heppens, the depth of the box vs the depth of the port makes it so that when the port ends it will be a good distance away from the wall its facing. its going to be front firing, back seat folds forwards, and I am not going to 100% seal it to the panel behind the seat, but I am gonna build a little frame angled to the back of the seat and plumb on the back of it and slide the box up against it.

I'd read the tube, but whenever Ive used silicone(not on sub boxes, but sinks and windows, etc...) if you put a bead on too large of an area, when you go back to smooth it it already has a skin on it and rolls into sticky little balls if too late. cured in no more than an hour Id say. humidity might slow it up just a little but Im sure its good to go by now.

through a google search for "car audio forum"

but if I have the port 30.5" wide, and use the 1:9 rule, Id need to have the port basically 3-3/8" tall, so Id have 103 in^2 port area. box only 3.75 ft^3 max, so thats WELL over the 16 in^2 per cube. its actually getting close to double. and when you say aeroport, is that just the term used for a round port, or is it different than running pvc for the port? also, about not having the port close to the back wall, I know if it goes straight back and ends it needs to be at least the diameter of the port away from the back wall, but if its making a 90, it can be at the back wall, right? because a slot port always turns at the back wall(at least mine always do and the ones ive seen always do too). and 3 4" ports would only give me about 8 in^2 per cube, isnt that a little small? and about the round flared ports, wouldnt really be a flare of any decent size, but I am going to use a roundover bit on it as well, and was going to try and carpet it and somewhat stretch the carpet into the box at the port and staple it from behind before I slide the port up against it the final time. I wanna make this box my crowning achievement of box building so Im going to take a while designing it and figureing the best way to make everything fit together and end up like I want it.

I have plenty of room for my overall volume, but fitting 3 10's and a port on the face is my challenge. I am going to have a box of around 3.25-3.75 ft^3 tuned to around 35. I was going for around 60 in^2 port area, my inside dimension is going to be 30.5 so that leaves me with a port that is 2" tall by 30.5" wide. Ive already done the math and have the depth on the box to easily fit the port length, but is there any reasons against a port of this shape? I thought about using about 4-5 4 inch round ports, which is either 48 or 60 in^2, but with either route I need to have ports longer than will fit inside the box, and I will not run an exterior port because this is my daily car and I really dont like the look of a setup like that, if I used 4" PVC, can I use 90's on each port? and just calculate the port length like I would with a square port? the square port would be the easiest to build, but I sort of want to try the round port again, I used to use a jig saw to a tracing of the pipe, and obviously never got the greatest result. now that ive built some more, I am going to do a double baffle again, and use a hole saw on the first baffle with internal bracing holding the port and a flush trim router bit on the front baffle to get a perfect fit/nice clean look. also, if I was to coat the box in herculiner, would it be bad if I covered the .75" visible MDF edge of the outer baffle? I could carpet the box, but not sure on what Id do with that unfinished edge, maybe Ill just herculine that part and carpet the rest. should start on the box early next month, and Ill post some pics while Im at it. its for a trio of PPI PCX102 10" subs, I got 1200 watts available(obviously will have to turn back the gain a bit) and am going to continue designing my ported box unless someone says I should stick with a sealed box for these. my box as of now will look like this - either - A) bottom ports will go to the back and turn up, top ports to back and down, or B) bottom ports to back and turn in, top ports to back and turn out.

Ive only done it once, and Ive seen about 14 others do it. so far I dont think anyone could hurt themselves physically because noone ever did more than start drooling and sit down, or get on the ground and crawl a few feet, or try and sit on the wall-fall down-get up and try and try again, etc..... I just saw myself inside of this revolving circle of neon lights and people yelling. but it felt like i was completely sober/thinking clearly inside this and was focusing on it and could always slow it down and almost stop it before I lost control and it sped up. I was literally thinking that Id be stuck in there forever and people would have to wheel me around, feed me, and wipe my ass because id never be normal again. I dont remember the way in or out of the trip either. I was told I looked very pissed off and was just rotating my head like I was looking around in circles the entire time. this was 15x I think, and mixed with weed, and 3 nice hits before it took hold of me. I have yet to see anyone do it again, except one kid did it twice. Ill never do it again. thought about it for a while because I thought maybe the 2nd time around Id know it would end and could enjoy the trip, but never went through with it. this was quite a while back, never even heard of 100x, 20x was the worst there was(that I knew of anyways). cant imagine the 100x... NO THANKS!

on my last box, I just cut a sheet of mdf barely larger than the sub, (13.5x13.5 for a 12") and put my sub cutout in that and screwed it to the front on the inside. if your box is almost dont you probably cant do that. also, not quite sure if that is a beefy enough of a solution for a heavy ass sub like a BTL, mine was for a cheap, real light sub. if its glued and screwed though I dont see any problems, especially since its a temp box. and this peice barely displaces any air inside the box.

so its louder when burping one tone, but playing music it looks like its gonna hurt the sub before you can get as loud as before? were both boxes tuned to the same freq.?