ppiflat10s

just to be clear I know what load makes what in the different wiring schemes, I was just confused with the way that last one was worded.

I cant remember if it started out new in the family or not. Im pretty sure my aunts mom bought it when it was only a few years old though. but it has been through ALOT since then! no UPS driver today(so far), which is good, keeps me away from the car and focused on homework (anybody deciding to stay in school after high school or not, DO IT!, I waited 6 years before I went back and damn it would be nice to be out of college 2 years ago!) I am going to get off the computer sometime and go get some fiberglass screen and resin though.

the V4 does look alot like the HDC3, and the V2 looks alot like the SDC. hopefully the V4 would be beefier though, because HDC3 15 is only 270 while the 15" V4 is 850 got any vids from this weekend?

do I have to be here for a month before this started? or if my month hits in the middle of this am I then eligible?

bing is better than google for porn. lol I still use google for everything though, searching, maps, mail, etc.. Im just used to it and like how it saves every address I ever enter into the maps part, email addresses automatically appear in a drop down box as your typing them that you can select through. only reason I even found out about the benefit of using bing to search for porn was a news story about it.

not sure why, but this morning I was thinking about it and started wondering if the j could be junction, then remembered Id heard the name "apache junction" before, but couldnt even remember if it was in AZ.... its not so bad. its been passed along about 6 members of the family, cant really complain about a free car. when I got it, it started by flipping a switch under the dash, turning the key to start to kill the stereo/fan/etc to give the starter all the power, but then also press a button under the dash to get the starter cranking. sometimes it wouldnt leave park so you had to have a second key to bypass the shifter lock. I took the ignition switch apart and cleaned/sanded all the contacts, and got it back starting with the key, I have it always leaving park just from pressing the brake like normal also. it used to die the instant you shifted to reverse unless you gave it some gas, and if you came to a stop in drive with the AC on it would die. I have also fixed both those situations, but you still cant have the air on while in reverse or it dies when you stop if it didnt already die as you shifted it into reverse. I still have a few things to do which should solve the idling problem (accords egr ports in the intake manifold get clogged, ive seen completely closed ports at 115k, I got 283k, so mine are probably blocked off completely) and the auto tranny is probably on its way out so Im going to swap it to a manual, because I hate automatics anyways unless im driving a suv/truck, or a true luxury car. after all that I may like it... also need to have the rotors turned and get new tires. lol.. just a few little things

... and AJ would be? but Im about 90 miles north of phoenix. been in AZ for just over 2 years now, and have no clue what city AJ would be? and Im sure I would get better results from sealing it off, but dont want to put too much work into anything permanent because I kinda hate that car right now, but am in no position to get a new one. I got a few things to fix on it and then it wont be so bad though, and if I ever decide I like it enough to keep it a long time, Ill put some effort into sealing it, unless I think its loud enough as it sits.

oh, and I think I just got what you meant. I have no plans as of right now to seal the enclosure to the seat back. I just decided I was going to fire forwards from now on so I dont have to worry about loose junk sliding around the trunk and damaging the sub/s.

I made the back 1/4 inch longer than the box itself and am going to rip 3 more 1/4 x 3/4 inch strips per side to give myself an area to tuck the carpet when I wrap it. and at the port, I am going to spray them flat black inside, and then when I cut the carpet away from the port, I will cut it flush on the port sides, flush on the square edge, and then the flap Im left will I will tack up with adhesive as well and roll it into the port to cover the flare with carpet. I think Im also gonna borrow my dads belt sander and flush everything up a bit better before I carpet it. also need to glass the inside of the radius like I posted, so until then it wont be playing at all. still waiting on some ring terminals and a d block anyways. plus I gotta get the resin and mesh, so at least I have quite a few things Im waiting on, I hate it when I have everything done and have to wait for one ring terminal, or some speaker wire or something just to listen to it. I have the adhesive to carpet it, but forgot to stop at checkers to grab some carpet, so I still need to go back and get that as well. I doubt Ill ever get mic'd, it would be cool, but I dont even have a clue where to do it around here, probably have to drive down to phoenix. my friend has one of those google G1 phones through Tmobile, and it has a db meter on it. lol, I wonder if its even within 3db accuracy? I got lucky with the glue. I just started thinking I wasnt sure if the glue in the radius had set yet before I put the box down horizontal, and just took the 2 outer subs out to check and there was only one drop of glue on one sub and it hit the basket. that would have been pretty bad!

from looking at his, and looking at mine, I think it works better with his spacing, came out more of a consistent radius than mine, mine is only about a blade width spacing between cuts. his is probably stronger too, theres more meat to it. but I only had somewhere around 1/32" left after my cuts, doesnt look like he left much more, if any, so I might have gotten that part right.

all of my music has words in it, whether it is rap or anything else... words...

well, got the box done, what a pain in the ass. I had to make it in sections and then join then, never building a box with 3 individual chambers in one box again for the rest of my life. I am going to put some screen/resin inside still on the radius to stiffen it up just in case, than sand the radius into a little nicer of a radius. some pics during assembly these 3 peices... turn into this... man that suckers tall, looks like it should stand up in an SUV fits perfect. doesnt leave much trunk space left, oh well I guess. comps are gonna be the last thing Im worried about. I will run the wire from the amp to the door right now, but leave the amp disconnected for until everything else is done. no way they will go in the doors without spacing them out 7/8 inch, but then they are RIGHT against the back of the door panel. so I am going to cut part of the door panel off ( part of the door panel above the grille is actually over about 1/4 of the speaker) and fiberglass some pods to position them something like in the pics. tweeter is gonna get sunk into the door panel like the picture. I am going to try and make the pod for the mid so that after I pop the door panel on, before I install the speaker the pod will screw to the door so that the mid isnt just mounted to the door panel, but should I make it so that the back is open and the mid has the entire door as its enclosure, or should I seal the pod? I could probably get around 1/8-1/4 ft^3 is all. could give it more but I dont want the speaker to be too far off the door panel.

looks better than my attempt at it today. I filled it with glue but couldnt stop messing with the box to let it dry, so the glue kept running out of the grooves. might have to go get me some resin. thanks for the idea.

what amp you gonna run? why didnt you get D1's so you could get a final 1 ohm load? or are you gonna put each sub on its own amp?

had to redesign my box, was going to run a common chamber with a port on each end. but the face of the box could only be so big, and I though one sub up high centered with a sub down low on each side would fit in between the ports. but it wont. so I am going to basically have 3 individual boxes in one, still staggering the subs like I was going to, but I am going to have horizontal slot ports (9.625Wx1.5H), one below the middle sub, one above each outer sub. each subs going to be in 1 cube tuned to 35. I could have made it like I wanted if I made the box a pie shape in the back and have the subs and port rear firing, but the box would be such a tight fit that it would almost be like sealing the trunk off from the car with the subs pointing the wrong way. got it drawn up though, nothing else was done today, too much other crap, but I got my speaker wire for the comps today, so tomorrow I should get a box built and maybe some progress towards the comps.

not sure but are you gonna try all that power on that pair of type r's?

my HD sells the 3/4" with 5 green lines also. dont think it has to do with the grade, its just an easy way for them to ring it up. they have a bunch of colors in the system and different line quantities on different products. I never knew there was grades. I had heard someone mention LDF and HDF before (low and high) but I thought they were just full of it.

for my sake I hope the sub is a few pounds heavier than that.

885

they didnt seem to mind that power at all. maybe since the box wasnt even giving them 2/3 the space yours are in... but the moonroof was trying to jump out of the car, and the rear window was flexing a ton. I havent seen much in person but it was the loudest 2-12" setup ive heard. sucked when I had to sell it to a friend cuz I needed money... he then sold it all and bought a 13W7 and a 1000/1... not sure if whoever built the box and set it up just shouldnt be doing that kind of thing or what(probably), but I think it was less impressive than the type R's were. but back on topic if yours work for you in 2.9 a peice, im sure theyll be fine in 2.5 a peice. is that accounting for driver displacement?

alright, I originally had drawn it out with a port at each end, but figured it see about doing it this way because I like the looks of the double flared port between 2 subs. could always still flare it like in the pic even if I do have a straight board in the middle.

4th pic, in the garage. depending where it is its probably alot more than that. was just at my brother in laws house, and although they are very close to the ocean, the houses for sale that look to be about that size are anywhere from 3-6 mil.

had my pair off a 9.1 for a while (not to amps full potential) and then had them taking the full brunt of a bridged 9.2X with no problems. that must be pretty loud in a pickup.

alright cool, and not sure youve seen the inside of a 90-93 accords door. it has a large plastic cover that hides where the harness enters the door. didnt look real hard, but it appears that it goes in and pops into place with those kind of plastic rivets that dont pull out like most panel clips do. on top of that it is on the other side of the window channel so to remove it I have to unbolt the front window channel and remove it. then, the flexible part from door to car goes instantly to a 90 out of the door, up 6 inches or so, then flattens alot, goes 90 again to the front of the car about 4 inches then finally into the car. and the factory wiring looks to be about 22 gauge or something. I could fit both wires with their insulation in the same space as just the copper strands in one side of the wire thats replacing it. (almost). tomorrow I gotta go move a couch and a bed for my grandparents so I dont know if Ill get to it, but I hope to get the comps in the doors. or at least start on the MDF rings to install them. would it be better to have the mid in a sealed enclosure. if I made a mdf cylinder to mount the speaker in it would only be around 1/15 ft^3 before driver displacement