j-roadtatts

The stupid people pay me to hurt them so its all good. Can you feel me now....How about now?

AGREED! People come up to my wife and rub her tattoos in public all the time.

Nail that MF'er J!!!

I would say 200 at best considering what they are and the price of new parts.

If you get any ford with sync in it, think hard about about putting a system in it unless it is the sony upgrade with a sub output. Ran into that with a friends focus. I wouldn't pay for that as I'd want to yank it out anywayzI agree after that experience. I don't want or need any of the gadgetry. I just want a car to drive. They can keep their damn navigation, touch screen, back up camera, "audiophile" system bullshit. All I need is air/heat, cruise, and power windows. A -> B. No, it has to be more than that. I prefer a true driving experience though that is not too common anymore more. I want a NEW, pure mechanical car, but everything has electronics that affect the driving experience. I am just trying to get as minimalist as possible. sounds like you need a pony car again but then it won't be new I dream of the day I can buy a car and just add a sub.

I encourage this type of behavior as we are over populated!!

With some accents white could be nice. Solid white (as is nothing besides rims and tires) just screams 'break my mirrors' to me.J I really like the monochrome white look. Adrian, I have been on a white kick lately too. Never been a fan of it but it makes the Miata look newer. Simplest easiest white should be cheaper and easier to detail / touch-up. Black is out of the cards. It gets plenty hot in the summer, I don't want it to get hotter. White looks good on the right sports car, and thats about it in my opinion. Most white vehicles look too utilitarian to me.

Would probably have better luck looking through the photo gallery. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/gallery/album/356-honda/www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/gallery/album/356-honda/ I can elaborate later, off to work atm.

Sounds like those driver's weren't DOH-zer approved. Off axis should not affect the low frequencies. That driver shouldn't start beaming until around 500hz I would guess. You ear can localize frequencies above that, but can only differentiate left to right below 500hz.

Most likely the coil has started to come unwound. Thought something didn't sound right when you said one driver sounded warmer. I assume the blown driver is the one that was lacking midbass.

Don't get frustrated, the stereo is an inanimate object you have complete control over. The way you have the frame built now should work great to butt the enclosure up to. Subwoofer frequency sound waves are huge, we are talking city blocks. You are not going to stop them from traveling through an object thinner than them. My point is you will be sealed by just butting the box up and securing it. NO NEED to foam around the box. A few reasons I like this setup is no road noise from the trunk, pressurizes the cabin better, more accurate sound, less unpredictable coloring of the sound, to name a few. I run my sub at about 20% when I want things to sound level and good. I crank the sub when I just want some violence. If your not trying to squeeze every last db out of the sub you should be golden. As stated the best term to use would be loud and still sound good. I would guess you dont want to be an SQ snob OR a one note wonder. I agree on lossing the rears, but thats not the topic at hand. Can post pics of mine sealed if you want to check them out. Is overkill but as you stated I wouldn't know until I tried it.

Fight over the clouds, over wind, over sky. Fight over life, over blood, over prayer, overhead and light. Fight over love, over sun, over another, Fight for each other, for the ones who are rising.

Mustangs new shoes should be here tomorrow!! Hope I can nail the mild street look.

Team Holland lol

I would rather own the Focus over a Mini. Bet your stoked to be getting a new ride either way!

Now they're all confused.Very true. Without it we would all drive the same shit, do the same shit, and life would suck. Free will makes life worth living brother. J Think divine intervention. He gave freewill so we would destroy our fellow man. Was a reflective comment in response to divided opinions.

Push on the speaker when it is not playing. Do you hear the coil scraping then?

If sq is your goal you will most likely be happier with the cabin sealed and the sub firing forward. I personally have mine sealed off to the 9th degree. I have played with several other configurations but that one sounded best to me. Not the loudest, but the most accurate, with the least coloring. My setup before was with the sub forward sealed with only wood, which sounded really clean also. With less effort. As you said, either way you have the rear deck and surrounding area deadened nicely. All food for thought.

Why did father give these humans free will?

Sealing off the trunk for the right reasons isn't a bad idea. You might of been able to get similar results with less work though. You wont know which sound you will like subjectively with out testing. Once it is built in and sealed you won't be able compare. Keep us posted. And don't forget pics.

Firing the sub into the cabin may or may not be louder. Would definitely do some testing before sealing the trunk if thats your only reason. Yes sealed will quiet down truck rattles. But if the sub is louder firing into the trunk, you may want to just deaden the trunk. As sub freqrency soundwaves are so long, sealing every little hole to the trunk will not make that much difference. You would be better off doing the MLV over the rear deck and any other surface facing into the car around the trunk opening. My suggestion would be butt the box up to the frame you have built and listen to that before wasting a bunch of time trying to seal every little hole. I say this as I have done subs firing into the cabin with both methods.

A reference chart for you brother. As Jay-cee suggested, test tones might help you pick out the offensive frequencies. Here is a link. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/42728-test-tones-sliding-tones-pink-noise-all-lossless-for-dl/ As we are all here to learn and help. I will give my logic on a few things. My logic on making cuts FIRST on the EQ before boosting, Is its best to remove the nasty shit first before adding more to the mess. sure you can start anywhere, but logically that's a good place to start if your unsure. My logic on phase vs T/A as Sean's answer was brief. Different frequency soundwaves are different lengths crest to crest. The only way to achieve absolute phase would be if the drivers are mounted together, on the same plane at the same distance. Which is almost impossible even in a studio let alone anywhere else. What we are trying to achieve by reversing polarity on only one speaker is to change the relative phase. In a car for example the passenger speaker is already multiple crests ahead of the drivers speaker by the time it reaches your ear. Some frequency's will still be in phase or close to it, while other frequencys are not. Due to the waves being different lengths they are going to be different degrees out of phase. When you reverse to polarity you are hoping to bring certain frequencys waves closer to an acceptable degree of phase. An out of phase wave may lead to an absence or even distortion at that particular frequency. Some will even prefer the distortion as it may sound louder to them, over the sterile sound. Subwoofers would be a great example, out of phase they may sound louder due to distortion, but the ear is not as sensitive to distortion in that range so they will enjoy the obnoxious boost. For YOUR purpose today we are hoping that the reverse brings the midbass to life by shifting the relative phase. T/A will shift all soundwaves, I believe it is called a phase shift. The other purpose for trying different phasing would be at the x-over points. As the tweeter and mid are playing the same freq at or near this point, you may get a suck out around the x-over point. The same thing is occurring with the relative phase. Sometimes reversing phase will only worsen the dip in the response and you just have to live with the better of the two. I do not have a degree in acoustics so may of used a term with other meanings or missed something. My experience is from being in friends studios and at live shows. Nothing worse than live music coming through in waves with half the harmonics missing. Not to be confused with the echo of to many sound sources. I call the latter the Wal-mart sound.

Suggestions on tuning are just that. If you want a speaker recommendation, give a more detailed objective. As the example above. Being so subjective with your awnsers won't really help as opinions vary so much.

Listening to the individual driver will give you an understanding of that particular drivers acoustical signature and limitations and that's about it. I will give my best guess from what you have described, your music type and without listening in person. You are looking for a driver with an acoustical signature in a whole different pall park. Something with more amplitude from 100-1k and less cone breakup above that. IF there has to be a sacrifice it would be lossing 80-100hz. Just a guess, but gives you an idea what info is needed. As at this point is obvious you just don't like that drivers acoustical sig and you are looking for an upgrade.

I have rehabbed quite a few wiring harnesses and replaced a few also. This is where I shine as most cringe. The whole 5 glass fuses in the original box are rusted in place. lol A 12 circuit blade style fuse box will be a nice upgrade. Fuck VW Beetles. Thought building one would be fun..... ONCE.