j-roadtatts

T-nuts bother me when they fall off or when the sub cutout isn't much smaller that the mounting hole diameter. If you want to go deeper, how many times is a sub removed/installed? With all that in mind, I've used T-nuts on the RLi enclosure Drywall screws work great for most install's but heavier subs I prefer a T-nut. It sucks either way if the cutout is to big or screw holes are off center.

Sharp drywall screw on a screw gun that I have to use force to drive, or a flat smooth bolt I can just thread right in by hand . IDK which one I should pick?

I don't like'em. In the SPL enclosure I use drywall screws. And I've removed/installed the sub over a dozen times, using the same screw holes. Only one stripped the mdf and is no longer useful. I didn't say I liked them. BUT they are a set it and forget it. Plus you can use allen head bolts.

I love me some cinnamon. I rail Highbrow Vapor's Cinnamon 18mg all the time. I must need to try a different cinnamon, I thought it tasted like an air freshener. I was bummed as I like cinnamon flavored foods. I did try the Root Beer and like it. My fave is still the Black Honey Tobacco. I think bc it tastes like the cigars I be puffing in between vaping.

People in Colorado be like

Have you tried firing the subs/port in a different direction? Possibly even firing to the side? As sub frequency's are no directional (and very long waves) you never know what will have the most effect on amplitude. Honestly you shouldn't even need the ski pass open, as sound waves travel through anything thinner than the length of the sound wave. 4th order would work, but most likely would be real peaky sounding and not very tonal. I have a 4th order so can say they are a bitch to setup and require a driver that is designed for such an enclosure.

Would look good bolder. (heavier line weight) Deviant is full of unique artwork. Lots of monogram font's on Google image search. https://www.google.com/search?q=monogram+fonts&rlz=1T4GGHP_enUS453US453&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QVjqUqSGH4z8yAHA-4HABw&ved=0CCYQsAQ&biw=1120&bih=599 "The hard part is it has to look good on a huge banner, on a small computer window, and in print. I don't know. I think simple is better?" You are spot on, simple is better. The thing that makes a lot of art pop to the eye is what ISN'T there. I don't have PS on my home computer so can't play with the design. As I guess I am the resident artist I am tuned.

Happy b-day Bro!!

Don't let models fool you. That XBL motor will be far more linear than the modeling will show you. That explains the odd modeling as I didn't know it was a XBL design.

T-nut's FTW. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057017/k-G3381883?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKbJhq38pbwCFY8-MgodYyYAiA

Staging is honestly a non-issue as ignorance is bliss. BTW the best sound at a concert is standing next to the sound board guy, NOT the front row. LOL I will touch base on the staging at any time I feel it is pertinent to our purpose though. As far as getting "good" staging out of a 12" mid, the bottom will be the easy part. Get the mids sounding good and blended with the horns with the sub OFF first. Once the front stage sounds acceptable to you turn the sub up slowly until you can localize it and then back it off a notch for your "SQ" setting. As for blending the top end of the mid with the horns I will give ONLY my thoughts on this, as I have NO experience with horns. (so PLEASE correct me if I am wrong in any of this thought process) I would think the horns would be capable of playing at a little lower frequency's at low volumes for your "SQ" setting. From experience of having 12"s that play cleanly well beyond 1k hz, I will say that you will start to notice different frequency responses from the two mids once you start getting much over 500hz, possibly lower. Once again though ignorance may be bliss as you may think they sound great playing upwards of 1-2k hz. Then again a Phase Plug may help with this. 20 years ago I could care less about staging as we would roll around with the back seat pulled out and a sheet of plywood screwed in full of drivers of all sizes and flavors. So I say go for it brother. You will only get more discerning ears with age and can dial things in more as you get the processing and time in. I don't mind modeling for ya, but also want you to understand the hows and whys. As far as driver designs go, its a crazy circle of trade off's. Without breaking out the cookbook, here's an example of the vicious circle. to produce low frequency's requires a stiff cone material to swat the air. That stiff cone weights more so is less efficient as a trade off. The heavier cone requires a stronger motor design(more coil wraps, more spiders, etc), which causes the inductance on the top end everyone speaks of. The other end of that spectrum is a PA driver (which is meant to keep up with horns in large open space's) has a super light cone. The lighter cone of the PA (pro driver) allows for a motor that does not roll off so low on the top. The cool thing these days is company's have really started producing a larger variety of drivers that fall in the middle of this spectrum. (and are geared towards car doors) Speakers are dumb in the sense they only do what we tell them to do through install (enclosure alignment, eq, xover, signal, etc). This is where it gets tricky for modeling purposes of a midbass driver for a door install. In the modeling program we must use a sealed alignment but the door is more of a leaky sealed box. So when modeling the low end, I do four vas values in a sealed alignment, door Vb, x1, x3 and again x10. This will show the low end roll off but is vague in the sense that it is more for reference as the door is neither a true IB or a sealed box. This is where the cabin gain you speak of come's in. Even if the driver models poorer than desired, we know based on the driver design (stiff cone, high BL, etc) that it will play the lows with authority, AND the cabin gain will more than take care of any output concerns down low. Now on to the AE drivers the OP is interested in. The company offers an IB driver geared towards car installs So I modeled that first. http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=35 The first graph is the IB driver in a true sealed .75 cu ft enclosure. As you see it bumps up the Qtc. to 1.368. Qtc = Qts* [ ( Vas / Vb ) + 1]^.5 Qtc: Value for the damping provided for a driver in a sealed enclosure. Denotes the enclosures ability to control the driver response at resonance. Qtc = 0.707 is the optimum value for sealed enclosures, providing flattest response and highest SPL for deep bass extension. Enclosures for this value are often rather large. Lower Qtc can give even better transition response, down to a Qtc of 0.577 for the best damping and transients, but the enclosure is usually huge and SPL's are down. A Qtc of 1.0 is a compromise between deep bass and transient response vs. smaller sized enclosure. Larger subs can go with an even higher Qtc, as their resonant frequency is often very low, but Qtc's above 1.5 can begin to sound very muddled and boomy, and sacrifice deep bass extension and transient response for enhanced mid-bass peaks (louder). I would suggest going for a higher Q alignment to try to get more response in the 50-100hz range. ^.75 Vb ^door Vb ^1x VAS ^3x VAS These are the AE IB12AU 4 ohm driver. The first is plotted as if you built a .75 cu ft pod. The second is plotted as if your door was 2.5 cu ft and truly sealed. The third is for a 5.5 cu ft box as that is the equal VAS of the driver. The forth is 3x the drivers VAS. The fifth is 10X the drivers VAS. The forth and fifth are closer to if they were truly IB as in open air with only a baffle and no dampening. Now on to the DX. I got frustrated with the WinISD Alpha Pro so switched to the WinISD.7 Here is the TD12X graghed out for you. http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=7 First is a .75 cu ft enclosure. This has a Qtc of .823. This one is in a 2.5 cu ft. (roughly the volume of your door) enclosure and has a Qtc of .536 Again in a 5.65 cu ft enclosure (1xVAS) and has a Qtc of .425 Again in a 17 cu ft enclosure (3xVAS) and has a Qtc of .345 Again in a 56.5 cu ft enclosure (10xVAS) and has a Qtc of .308 The formula Impious gave us will show where the driver starts to roll off on the top end. As the roll off is minor in regards to db loss I take this as just a reference also. Eventually the mechanical noise will become louder than the output though. "A driver's inductance and resistance create a classic 1st order (6db/oct) lowpass crossover. You can determine the corner frequency with the formula." Frequency = Re/(2*Pi*Le) *Le in henries Oddly going by inductance, the DX will start rolling off at 1433hz. And the IB not until over 2500hz. Hopefully Impious can explain how this formula translates into real time. As I have found this formula does NOT correlate with manufactures posted FR graphs. I understand that the coil is part of the circuit just like a coil in a xover. I even remember back in the day, ppl using store bought rolls of wire left on the spool for sub xovers. How acurate it was we will never know. lol

Brilliant! Fuckin' A Cotton, Fuckin' A!!!

The recommended enclosure for .7 Qtc. is .15 cu ft. LOL

I had one 3-4 years ago. IIRC the box volume was 1.5 cu ft. Box was 2.25 cu ft total, including the port. On rated power it never even got warm. Without modeling I would say 1.5-1.75 cu ft. 16-20 sq in port area per ft.

I am stoked for you Steve! I have spent quite a bit of time in Southlake area. Thats a great neighborhood!thanks dude. Hopefully it all works out with the inspection. Has new roof, new pebble tec pool, and a few other things.I have big plans for the house after closing.Can't go wrong as its only 20 years old. You REALLY cant go wrong with masonry exterior. Does the pool have a hot tub section built in? I assume you are moving your construction biz up to the DFW area?the pool does not have the spa portion. We plan to add an above ground one near the house. Looming at the Arial view, none of these houses had the hot tub. Just a pool. The biggest draw for us to this house was that it had a pool and a decent yard.My company did ask me to move up there. Sadly I don't own the company though. Back in '09 I started my own subcontractor company. When it got slow I took a job with my competition and closed up shop. Fast forward a few years. that company got bought out by a firm in Minneapolis. They are the ones who asked me to run all the projects in north Texas. My wife works from home, so she can live in any major city that her company (Nike) has an office in. Can't wait to see the touches you put on the place! The house I currently own was freshly remodeled before we bought, but being me I spent a month remodeling again before we moved in. Easier that way at least. The construction trade is dog eat dog right now. Most of the work around here revolves around construction or housekeeping so have seen it effect a lot of ppl.

I heard about the mandatory shut down due to cold fronts. That's cray. We get frozen rain then snow. people can't drive for shit here either.

What is the total volume of your enclosure? I take it you don't carry the spare tire as I can see it in the background? Mounting a 70+ lb sub vertically is always fun!

I am stoked for you Steve! I have spent quite a bit of time in Southlake area. Thats a great neighborhood!thanks dude. Hopefully it all works out with the inspection. Has new roof, new pebble tec pool, and a few other things.I have big plans for the house after closing. Can't go wrong as its only 20 years old. You REALLY cant go wrong with masonry exterior. Does the pool have a hot tub section built in? I assume you are moving your construction biz up to the DFW area?

Nice! Will match my other amp for my F-250! I have bought used or acquired every piece so far. Alpine 9887 hu Memphis amps Seas 27tffn c/g tweeters (thanks Aaron) mids? Aurasound NS10-513-4a center counsel sub Sound deadener complements of Aaron also! As it's a work truck I would hate to buy new but still want steller SQ. ALL I am lacking now are the mids....Sean had some Seas Ca18's I wouldn't mind running. He never shot me a price though?. hint,hint Nice catch Speaking of buying used, only my mids and sub were bought new. 3 amps, headunit, ipod interface and midbass were all bought used. Generally ppl with high end equipment take good care of it so I am comfortable buying used. A funny story. I traded a tattoo for the Memphis MCA-3004. Is a guy I went to school with. He owned a local audio shop for a while and had used the amp on some focals comps that cost a pretty penny. I demo'd the Honda to him with only the Fostex FF85k's and a little sub, no mid's. Dude was blown away that a 40 dollar 3.5" paper cone speaker sounded as good if not better than his 1000 dollar Focals.

I am stoked for you Steve! I have spent quite a bit of time in Southlake area. Thats a great neighborhood!

It isn't about tall, but rider forward. Notice my IQr, there isn't a more rider forward sled on the market. It is WAY further than any consumer sled. Really allows you to get weight on the skis when you need to and on the track when you don't. I LOVE sleds that require an active rider.Rolling mine onto its side boondocking is way easier than in the ass draggers as well. I will never, never, ever, never own another low sled. Absolute horseshit for everything except super tight twisties if you want to relax and let the sled do the work. As far as deep powder riding the last place you want your weight is over the ski's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=DH-cLFcokgQ You need a ride a modern sled, you will change your mind. I assume you've heard the term wrong foot forward? The whole goal when side hilling is to get forward... I have rode quite a few different sleds, old and new. The last sled I rode was an M7. I have rode RMK's also which I assume is as close as I have been to your sled. I should of found a better vid for you. This one is more the terrain I ride. Might put things in perspective for you. I am sure you have rode quite a few sleds also, that's why I asked your thoughts on the higher stance. RMK could be if it was a 2011 or newer. M7 is an antique suspension wise.VERY familiar with your technique and since you linked schooled you should understand the 'wrong foot forward comment' which BEGS for a rider forward chassis. So much so I consider the other ones ass draggers and un-fun all the way around. ALL the sleds are going that route...well except the Yammies, but they made up for it by buying a chassis from Arctic Cat. I answered my own question. Any time two smart guys disagree I generally look for the missing variable. In this case I believe it to be the fulcrum point is different with the long track vs the shortie. As you see no one in that vid is hugging the tank, in fact the are standing on one side of the sled or knee on the seat. different center of gravity on that plane. Did you get my PM?

I bought the daughter a new laptop and searched like crazy for a laptop running Windows7. Pretty much gave up and got the 8.

I need midrange drivers still. Had intended to be done last spring but life did not permit. My next daily driver. They are chrome plated plastic.......AND gone also. I will replace with black one's when i get the door apart. Sucks rolling down the window to let yourself out.

Nice! Will match my other amp for my F-250! I have bought used or acquired every piece so far. Alpine 9887 hu Memphis amps Seas 27tffn c/g tweeters (thanks Aaron) mids? Aurasound NS10-513-4a center counsel sub Sound deadener complements of Aaron also! As it's a work truck I would hate to buy new but still want steller SQ. ALL I am lacking now are the mids....Sean had some Seas Ca18's I wouldn't mind running. He never shot me a price though?. hint,hint