j-roadtatts

I thought someone would say that but I think more uses can be had with the jigsaw and it can handle the metal with the right blade. Correct? Jig saw will work great too. I just love my angle grinder for way more things than my jig saw. I personally own the cheap skil brand jigsaw from walmart and it has lasted yrs now as little as I use it. I have used a grinder installing tile (cutting out round faucet cut-outs and round toilet cutouts) and even scribing logs. The tool for logs.

Honestly my prefered tool would be an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Will cut like butter without deforming the metal.

Sometimes it just feels good to get the gases out. Doesnt mean there has to be turds. i mean when you know it atcually came out and nothing is there...but yeah it does feel good to get the gases out Maybe not mystery, just super small.

Sometimes it just feels good to get the gases out. Doesnt mean there has to be turds.

He nailed as far as fitting the body part. this can make or break a tatt.

I think the higher you cross the mids the more of a problem you may have withe dash in the way. I like to use 1"x2" blocks with compound miters on them to secure my rings. Good luck Brother.

SWEET!! looks like you did the perfect size for your arm.

The jig saw should work great. Use birch for your baffle and you will gain better results than MDF. Use as big of piece as you can get away with as it will brace the door skin also.

You are at the mercy of the bots.

You need to send more of your "texts" to more people on here. I knew you would like that one. I send them to all the SSA members that I have a number for.

It hasn't been above freezing here in days. Its 2 degrees out right now. Holy shit! I can't imagine how cold that would be. I am just glad I work inside.

It hasn't been above freezing here in days. Its 2 degrees out right now.

Looks like a Cherokee dash Is a great book for early computerized cars.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootm...kp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out. thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that. ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens. edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car. You still haven't said what yr of car either?

It usually takes a couple weeks to condition your body to new exercises. Get through the first two weeks and it will be a whole new game.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_ckp_3.8L/test_ckp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.