j-roadtatts

Thanks for the input! I was going to put 2 10s in each door but depth limitations killed the plan =(. Thats sick bro I betcha those get down low. They can if I want (get low) but I am finding for my purposes (SQ) that they are cleaner sounding crossed alittle higher. I am even experimenting with them playing into the mid range. I am amazed how well the 12" Aura reaches, Its (only one) ear blistering crossed @800hz 24db on the top end. not that I think thats really what I am after, but they can WAIL if asked to.

Thanks for the contribution TypicailJawaiian. I think that is alot of what Bangin was wanting to hear. Sundown FTW, your going top notch on everything else....

Bondage TOP

More like my mom was house/ kid sitting for me while I was on vacation and deciced to clean my house/room......

Definetly listen to these guys, as you can see from the picture I fell victim to both crappy wires before listening/learning.

I am ALSO NOT suggesting that you try reproducing what I did, obviously because we have different goals. I am simply stating that I think you really just have to try different things until you get the result you are after.

I hear you about the door flex, I am in the same boat. (sort of) Heres a link to what I had to do to to my doors, for MY purposes. As you will see it took several methods combined to control the madness. I only had to add multiple layers of deadener along the top edge of the door in MY case, due to NO OTHER WAY to support along the window span. Everywhere else on my door only has one layer. I have a layer of CCF and MLV in there also. other notes: I used 30 ft butyl rope between the outer skin and factory cross supports, and used 12ga aluminun plate to seal all the door openings. Go to page 7 for pictures, if its not alreay on that page. http://www.soundsolu..._90#entry688856

I can't wait to start finishing the panels, BUT I spent most of the last week doing ALOT of testing to make sure there is NO panel resonation left in the door. KILL, KILL, KILL. Thanks for the kind words!! I am working on the tuning side of the install ALOT also. Now I understand why ppl say it can take months to tune. (especially for the noob )

If 4 layers is what it takes, then do it. I personally am a fan of as many methods as possible to stop panel resonation. ie, bracing, supports, lamination, whatever it takes. When Theres no other option than several layers of damplifier, well, do the damplifier.

Music is dynamic and will not be pulling the full wattage continuously.

Pictures?????

I think alot will depend on your personal listening habits. All you can do is keep upgrading/adding/testing with your system to really know for sure. Just remember to plan ahead as necessary.

How do you recommend I brace these in place? Blocks, wedges, shims or any other method neccesary, the bracinging is only temporary until the glue drys.

Will a 320 amp alternator be able to handle the (2) SAZ-3500, with (2) XS Power D3100s, OR will i need two more D3100s? I'd go for 2 more batts for sure you need a buffer to suply current in peaks its not a constant... don't be so affraid of a little voltage drop , with 320Amps you'll be just fine eventhough the amps will draw more at times X2 and +1 Well said BASSmaster.

A shot of the fleabay wire Impious is refering to on the left. The right side is the Knu Knoncepts CCA. (which isn't much better)

Heres the update of the last weeks work. I spent most of the week listening for resonations in the door and correcting them. I am making sure the driver is mounted solid before proceeding, since this was MOST of the cause for the other drivers death. A quick A B comparison of the 10 and 12, who do you think won? Heres the 10"...... And the 12".... Since the biggest goal is making the door solid I started with 3/4" birch and bolted that as heavily as possible. Da' fasteners's.... Me assholes and elbows...... And another assholes and, hey wait wheres the elbows..... I added several bolts since this pic...... bolt shot.... A sandwiched the LLP as a big gasket between the metal and ply..... and with the door shut.... Next I trimed the rest of the LLP off that wasn't under the ply and started layering Damplifier and Damp Pro in the most troubled areas. Also note more bolts where possible..... This is a GREAT time to make sure the window and door opener still function. VERY IMPORTANT. The biggest trouble spot was along the top edge of the door skins, due to no support in that area with the bigg span. Most areas along the top inner and outer skins are up to 4 layers to control the 12" released energy..... Back to the door panel....... gettin' ready to chop some more... And after surgery... And test fitting... And another angle, This is 2 full layers of 3/4" and 3 rings stacked on that so 5 layers deep at the driver. And another angle.... and another.... There will be one more beauty ring on the stack.... And ashot of where the switch will be. I will be rabbiting in a shelf to mount the switches in, and also do a few more cross supports under the plastic. Then the plan is to permanetly attact the panel to the door and fill it with expanding foam and fiberglass inplace. So this week I have pretty much stopped the panel resonation and can NOW hear what the driver is doing!!!!! My next step is to glue ALL the birch layers together for a lamination effect, brace the plastic, fill with foam, fiberglass and so on.......SO stay tuned.

DUDE, You guys kick serious ass on the wiring!!! :fing34: Makes me jealous, that shit is CLEEEEAN!!!

Awesome article!! I bet you are lovin' that car!!!!!!!! We are pretty good at going straight to the pics, Hehe. Thanks for the awnser on the grill. Atleast now I have another style to look for, cause Finding a DeeP DisH 12" mesh grill is proving difficult. Plus the one you have looks solid.

What you are failing to understand is that an active setup takes some sort of processing, wheather its built into the deck (9887, 117+h100, etc), a stand alone unit (3.sixty.2, Ms8, etc) or built into the amp(any amp with the right options to get the job done). The audio signal MUST be processed (crossed over) before it gets to the speakers to give them the right audio signal, understand?

Don't waste your money on cheap audio wire (its a joke), for the same price you can get welding cable that as good as the expensive audio wire.

Mechman is another company you could call. http://mechman.com/store/index.php/cPath/937 Otherwise make your own baby.

They do seem to have it together. The bracket fit perfect and the alternator/bracket took advantage of every increment of free space. They did send me the wrong Green Stripe belt and wrong pitch thread bolt that could of also been alittle longer. I could only imagine what the R/D is for them SO I am happy that what mattered most was right. The fit and the build quality. I was amazed there was a Green stripe included concidering what the belt alone cost. :fing34:

Coming together nicely!!! I can't wait to see more pics!! Keep up the killer work.

The built quility is good. Heres some pics of my XP250 for you to drool on....SO SEXY!!

All in a days work, even more interesting on a horse. Did you need a "warning" in the tittle, you poor thing......