j-roadtatts

Hey MKader, Did you go shopping for a backpack yet?

LOL Peng. You always keep me laughin'!!!

Just make sure it is a sealed battery if you are going to be mounting it in the trunk/passanger compartment, as a lead batt will vent toxic gases as its being charged. Which is bad.

The Wall looks sickly!! Good job on kickin' its ass overdrive style!! That Stang is gonna hurt somebodys, Hehe.

I like the 4th order areo port idea. will be great for that car. I can't be of any help on the design end unfortunetly, but will be following along to learn.

yeah thats what im doing i just have to find a place where i can drill in to Preferably at the rear of the trunk, where you can put one arm in the trunk and one under the car to hold the wrench.

Good luck with the vinyl the next time around, PM me if you need some tips.

I have One more question I should bring up while we are disussing the Aura's reach. IF I switch the 3" full ranger out for a tweeter in the future,( say something like the Scan Speak 6020-10) for more output. What is the highest I can get the 10 and 12 to play???

Thats funny shit. about 10 years ago I was riding around with a guy in a 86' Chevy C20 and the pedal dropped. When we pulled the front tire we found the the brake pad plate had worn clean through to the vents and had completely seperated what was left of the disk from the hub. The even funnier thing was the stupid MF knew it was going to happen and had all the parts in the truck. Needless to say we did a brake job right there. I just got a truck from my mom that she was selling to a guy and had to reposess. (94' F-250, 4x4) Needless to say that stupid MF ran the front pads to nothing and turned a 20 dollar set of pads into a 300 dollar brake job. there is definetly some stupid people out there.....

Thanks again for the equation (you posted it in on page one), I have used it a many time already. The Aura's don't give an inductance value (Le), but I assume from the posted FR gragh being reasonable flat up to around 2khz (big spike around 2.2khz) that they should be good to my where I am asking them to play. I tryed understanding the beaming concept when we discussed it in the "Audio Terminology" thread, but as you and Sean already explained, it's not that straight forward. I guess if you want to give me the equation I will try to understand it. Otherwise I am waiting for Sean's FINAL word on if I should run the 12". My other obvious option is to mount the 10 in one door and the 12 in the other and test that way, which I am also planning on doing anyways if I keep going the 12 route. ( I have one of each at this point) I am currently cutting and test fitting a sheet of 1/2" for the starter layer in the new door panels. I will build up layers of 3/4" to my final depth and so on..... I am now planning on using Birch ply for the door construction, unless there is any objections? I will start posting pics of the new door build soon.

The box looks good!! Hurry up and get that thing installed already.

Amen to you honey.

If it comes in king I'll do it now in the current bedroom! Wife might not like that too much..... I hope you have tall ceilings.....

hey did you like your type r components. the sub seems to over power the type s's and im thinking about upgrading to those next. what amp did you use for them to? I still love my type-r's. The tweeters and 6.5 both did best on-axis. They like power so I was feeding them 100 watts each. I was using the MRP-F600. what does on-axis mean? on-axis refers to the speaker being mounted pointing directly at your ear. You don't really need to worry about on-axis mounting, just a point I was bringing it up. What I would worry about is that the speakers are mounted super solid in your door. I suggest you mount an MDF ring inbetween the door metal and speaker to decouple(seperate) the two, this will help the speaker work to its full potental and not resonate(unwanted vibration) as easy. Then get an amp and it will make all the difference in output. As far as a good ground point, I recommend drilling a hole in the trunk floor and bolting the ground wire to the trunk floor with a lock nut on the under side. (sandwich the floor)

You da' man Nick!! I love my FI!!

I use Faber-Castell and Micron brand pens at work for stencils.

I plan on crossing them @ 400hz with a 12db slope or steeper on top and 63 or 80hz down low with a 12db slope or steeper.

WOW, I jizzed myself on the way to work today. I did some temp bracing against the door, and WOW I found what I have missing!!! I will be buying a sheet of 1/2" and 3/4" MDF tomarrow and start building the NEW doors. Why the hell did Solen send me the wrong speaker and fucking tempt me??????? I am still debating on the 10"s or the 12"s and am hoping Sean and Brad will chime in and help the young bull.

No...At least not that I know of. Maybe it's burried in the bottom of the box.. You could only hope, the one they sent was even a green stripe.

Welcome to SSA!! Your in the right place to learn.

Looks good so far!! Good choice of equipment. Did your DC alt come with a belt? Mine did, but it was the wrong size.

The trunk looks SWEEEEEET!!!! I bet the MDF really stiffins up that rear deck. Keep up the clean work.

OH, did I forget the pictures of this 12" sexy beast......

After a few weeks of testing I finaly found the problem. My door pod resonates like crazy at and below 125hz at high volumes. I am sure it is resonating at all frequencys and lower volumes, thats just what it took to amplify the effect enough to notice. So I give myself a big fat fail. My whole door is a fail. I am back at the drawing board as we speak. I plan on losing the pod I have now and starting over. I plan on mounting a sheet of 3/4" MDF to the whole inside metal door panel, and building a pod up out of layers of 3/4" MDF and so on. Also I plan on crossing the midbass higher and with a steeper slope to clean up the signal.(i liked the sound better also) I ordered the 10" replacement and Solen accidentally sent me a 12". My delima today is I want to switch to the 12" Aura's now since I am already going to rebuild the WHOLE door. SO MY BIG QUESTION TODAY IS what will I gain from switching to the 12"? 1)More cone area 2)higher Qtc (.620) 3)more output 4)lower fs/fc IS there anything I am missing?????

I Google imaged it before posting, The scenery is gorgeous!!!