Everything posted by j-roadtatts
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Can't find a high output alternator.
When I ordered from DC Power I called and told them what my budget was (500) and that I wanted a 200-220 amp. They told me they would give me a 250 amp for 525 shipped. SWEET!! I DON'T recommend calling to negotiate a price unless you got your credit card in hand and are READY to buy.
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quick question
First thing you must understand is you will NEVER kill ALL road noise in a car, only lower noise floor inside you car. You should listen to your car while driving without the stereo and decide where the most offensive noises are coming from. Deal with the loudest noises first and repeat as neccessary, otherwise you will waste alot of effort/money on the wrong places. you will find a combination of things will ultimately help you lower the noise floor of your car. What you are showing in the picture will NOT kill road noise, only stop the plastic from rubbing(decouple) on the metal if it where in the spot where they are touching. I would work more on killing the noises at there source. If you are trying to stop noise from traveling threw the door, you should glue a full sheet to the metal panel, foam side against the metal. Why? because the foam is decoupling the MLV from the metal panel. Why a full sheet? Because MVL is a barrier. The door should look kind of like this after the Barrier is applyed.
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jay-cee's Build Log
Gurd Danm thats some hefty wire!! I see you eye ballin' the 200.4, Me too!!!
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Welcome to the IHoP
Yeah I would eat that too, BUT ONLY after a wiener whap and a cock slap up side her head to adjust her attitude alittle.
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
I have been listening with the sub off (like you told me the first time) for almost two weeks now. I think the sub is covering more than I originally thought, but blends so well I couldn't tell. I listened last week with the Aura in a .25 cuft test box and have been listening this week with the Aura in the door. I will do as suggested and coutinue to test back and forth until I can determine what is really neccessary. So far I think I was just asking them to play to low, which was fine until I really wanged on them. They blended great crossed from 50 to 400 @12db, But I should have a steeper slope or move the xover point for wanging on them. (once again like you told me the first time) I will admit that I was being a jackass when I cooked the one driver, I was showing off to a drummer friend and got carried away with the volume. Lesson learned. I really think that the Aura is the best driver for my application, I just need to take more time tuning. I will do a ton of A B comparisions between the two alignments once the second driver shows up in the mail. On a lighter note I want a better EQ.
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quick question
As stated LLP is a noise Barrier. The vinyl layer(MLV) is the noise barrier and the foam(CCF) is meant to decouple the vinyl. Damplifier is a for controling panel resonation. What are your goals?
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quick question
Are you using the LLP as a decoupler? If you are using the LLP for a de-coupler it doesn't matter which side you glue as long as it decouples the door panel. I use upholstery glue, it will say "for use on foam" right on the can.
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1997 honda accord build log
yeah i was thinking type s 6x9's in the back no amp and type r 6.5's in the door with a 2 channel amp that does 100 watts per channel. what amp would be good for that? You don't really need back speakers. Save the money and spend it on your front stage. I personally would buy the MRP-F300 and bridge it to the fronts. Any amp that does 100 watts RMS x2 @4ohms will fit your needs though.
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1997 honda accord build log
You really only need to amp the front speakers.
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1997 honda accord build log
hey did you like your type r components. the sub seems to over power the type s's and im thinking about upgrading to those next. what amp did you use for them to? I still love my type-r's. The tweeters and 6.5 both did best on-axis. They like power so I was feeding them 100 watts each. I was using the MRP-F600.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I had a tandy 1000, and if you count it a comadore. I had a TI-99. the funny thing is I have a TI-99 emulator downloaded on my work computer. I still love playing "TI Invaders" and "Hunt the Wampus" among others.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Some M/T tires work great in the slop, but suck on rocks and they're loud as hell on the highway Some M/T tires work adequately in the slop, but are great on rocks and they're loud as hell on the highway Some M/T tires work great in the slop, great on rocks and you wouldn't even think of driving them on the highway Depends on the tire; there are tons and tons of customer reviews and magazine tests you can find via Google or by word of mouth with local trail riders My bias Ply Super Swampers sing like crazy goin' down the highway.
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1997 honda accord build log
Good choice of equipment for your first setup!! Always feels good to build your own box. Keep the pictures comin'.
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
Thanks again for the help guys. I know there is no magic anwser, but rather several things working in concert to achieve my goals. At the present time I am pleased with the very accurate sound stage from the 3"er's, with is my number one goal. So I will do as M5 sugested and continue to learn with the current set-up. I am getting a more tuned ear already and I am currently dealing with the anomalies in this set-up before I start changing equipment. In respects to the midbass, I think Impious hit the nail on the head. I think I am only lacking in the 80hz region. The sealed box (higher Qtc) gave me the reliziam that I am craving in that band range. I couldn't really hear a difference sitting in my driveway with the door open between the IB and sealed box, but driving down the road it was night and day. I attribute this to cabin gain, but am not sure? I try reproducing this sound with the EQ in the IB set-up but the sealed box seems to have more cone control. The other thing I think is working against me is road noise. Fucking Honda's. SO my current goals are: 1)build sealed inserts for my pods 2)kill more road noise 3)keep learning the EQ
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
And learning I am.
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
I am DEFINETLY in love with the technical side of things as much as I am the music. I really want to do a 3-way as stated but I want to know what I am doing first in respect to tuning and different alignments. Believe me you guys will be the first to know when I start designing my three way. You are correct Seth, the 3'er's have some limitations up high. I may add a passive tweeter for the time being until I get more processing capabilitys. that is the other factor holding me back. I love how sweet/head cracking a good home stereo sounds, SO if I had to decribe what it is I am trying to accomplish in this setup it would be to have that super crisp, clean, head cracking sound. I realize right away that to create that sound in a car is going to take some serious time and effort. I know I am creating an illusion. I am open to different recipes, and am someone that will follow you Old Bulls advice. So lets start talking processing for a 3-way+sub, I think that would be a good next step.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I fucking hate thieves.
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
Thanks for the input Sean. I will take a little more time setting everything this time around and not be so careless with the volume. As far as the 3"ers output, they do great on axis. The beauty of the Aura playing so high is that they add so much relizam to the 3"ers. thanks for the acknowledging my persevenance. I won't stop until I am a Master. Jared
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
This is another reason I have found that I like aluminum cones. The Aura's are also vented under the spider and the pole. I know I killed the one Aura with a clipped sig from the studio boosted music. I think I had the gain set pretty good, (by ear) I just pushed them with the wrong sig. Believe me I have learned ALOT from my recent experience. No I did not use a DMM at any point. Everyone seems to have different opinions on that on. NOW I shall start reading about this dynamic impedance.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Just think how many farts have been JAMMED into that poor seat.....
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Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.
I plan on building a mold and fiberglassin' me up a couple of them there inserts. I will take pictures. I thought according to hoffmans law, with a small enclosure power handling goes up, but I don't even know if hoffmans law applys to midbasses?
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peerless 6.5" sls midbass
Some drivers are over priced for only marginally better results if any. I don't recommend buying something just because its expensive, but because it fits your needs and has good build quaility.
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new box build
Very Nice!!! don't forget the finished pics.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I can tell its going to be one boring day at work, by boring I mean profitless. ITS a good thing its Friday for ME!!!