j-roadtatts

The last pair of Redwing boots I owned lasted me over 5 years.

I like the BF Goodrich TA K/O's. They wear like iron and have a ton of leading edge's, Which I would say is the most important on wet and snowy roads for suction.

Lovin' my Saturday top.

I woke up then too. to make matters worse I got up to give the roomie a drive as he was stranded downtown not knowing monday was a holiday for the busses. I don't why the fuck everyone got Monday off, the holiday was on sunday. BASTARDS!!! I was swamped tattooing. Today is my Saturday though, So they can all blow me now, haha.

I wake up that early everyday. Bring on the COFFEE!!!!

The work looks good. Did you get a boo-boo?

So in other words I need to figure out the Vb of the door. How accurate do I need to get with the Vb? I can get pretty close with pulling numbers and OR I can stuff the door full of packing peanuts and measure their volume to get even closer. Anyone have any other great ideas?

What is the correct equation for calculating qtc? Better yet does anyone have a link to a caculator that I should be using, all the ones I googled ask for different t/s numbers and come up with different awnsers. I looked at the Peerless and think it would make a good candidate for testing based on the high VAS and low FS? The specs don't show XMAX but I came up with 18mm, using the following math. VC lenght minus height of gap. Is this correct? Also they will handle 200watts RMS.

It's a bit of a pain with the way the voltage monitoring is setup.It is through a device near the battery on the ground wire that goes to the battery, which manages the current flow and then controls the alternators output.Not as simple as just running a big 3, though many people do that with no acknowledgement of the voltage monitoring device.Oh well.They will learn sooner or later when their alternators are way overcharging their back batteries because it senses that the front one is having a great deal of current drained from it So what is your solution to the problem? On my honda the ECU shuts off the alternator when it senses a drop in power demand, not really a problem though on the HOnda concidering when the volume is cranked, the alternator is definetly feeling a draw.

Thanks buddy.I'm a huge believer of doing things right the first time and building my setups to last so you never have to go back in to fix anything. I see you have a 2nd gen Xterra in your sig.I have an '05 SE.Have you done anything to yours?Believe it or not, you can fit 16 12s in the back and still keep the back seats.Ask me how I know The Xterra is the Wifeys car........for now. ITS starting to show it's age though!! SO maybe when she gets something new I will turn the Xterra into an SPL beast since I already have an SQ car. Doesn't sound like I need to ask about the 16 12s. I will remember that.

You live in Utah, what do you expect? I will tell you a funny story that happened a few weeks ago when I was in Utah. I was in the gas station paying for the gas with my wife (she is very tattoo'd also), When the clerk asks US "I bet you guys get stared at ALOT?, My reply "Only in Utah Baby". LMFAO. Wyoming isn't much better.

ME likey, likey!!! You did a great job with the installation, even the things people won't see, but still matter!! I am a neat freak also when it comes to wiring, SO PROPS there. I love the choice of equipment also. 5 stars baby!!!

Everything Looks SUPER CLEAN Man!! You did an awesome job on the box. The power wires look pretty good too considering how many there are.

Bring on the biuld!!! I can't wait to see that poor Honda with two 15's in it,hehe!!

They look EVIL, hehe!!! I hope to run a dual set-up in a car someday.

Happy 4th of July Everyone!!! I hope everyone has a Good Holiday.

Very Nice, Very Nice!! more pics?

The build looks good Man!! The tint looks killer also. I too WILL use an Xcon in my next built.

Thanks for the help Impious. You are World Class. I will do some searching and see what drivers I think will suit my needs and report back. I plan on buying the loudspeaker cookbook soon and doing some serious reading also. Thanks again.

I guess I should add that only one driver got cooked. The other driver has blueing of the coils but NO BURNT spots and still tests good SO I can re-use it if I replace the one blown one. I can only ASSUME that because I had them on seperate channels that the one that blew had the gain set alittle higher? I Also want to add that I was listening to music that was heavily boosted in the studio when I blew the driver, I KNEW I was pushing the driver and probably NO driver will handle this abuse. SO my next question is should I just replace the one Aura with a new one, and use the one thats still good, turn down the gain alittle and be more responsible with the volume? This is definenetly the most affordable option. What do you guys think?

I cooked the voice coil in one of my Aura 10 inch midbass drivers So now I need to replace them with something more heavy duty. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/aurasound/NS10-513-4A.pdf I know the t/s parameters should tell me which driver should be a good candidate but don't understand all of them to the fullest yet, SO this is where I am asking for help. The Drivers will be mounted in my doors IB and will be getting 300 watts RMS. They will be bandpassed 50hz to 400hz, give or take whatever it takes to blend them. Based on my installation I ASSUME that I need a driver with a total Q value of around .35? I ASSUME that because I burnt the voice coil in the Aura I should get a driver that can handle a higher RMS for my long term abuse. I ASSUME that if I get a driver with a RMS of 500 watts and only feed it 300 rms long term that I will NOT burn it up as long as the signal is FLAT? The third factor I ASSUME I should look at is sensitivity? I KNOW that this is a BAD thing to compare drivers by ALONE but still think its important. The LAST THING I ASSUME plays a big factor is the Frequency Response of the driver? I ASSUME that I am TRYING TO COMPENSATE for a POOR FR curve by turning up the volume to hear certain frequencys that are lacking? I ASSUME this played a big part in me destroying the other driver, is why I bring this up also. I DON'T know per say what FR curve I am after due to my lack of experience, BUT ASSUME it wasn't what I had with the Auras? I may need a better EQ or a better tuning ear, one or the other or BOTH? My budget is 400 dollars for two 10" drivers. I am interested in the Daber Audio 10's for the following reasons, RMS rating, QTS of .35, and a sensitivity of 88. I ASSUME the MOST important thing for my install is going to be thermal power handling, a.k.a. RMS? SO PLEASE HELP me get the correct driver for my application. My budget is 400 dollars for the drivers.

Well I figured I better update the build log since a few things have changed. I cooked the voice coil on one of the Aura 10"s. This was the result of listening to a boosted signal at too high of volume. I will admit I was showing off when it happened SO I geuss that it was an exspensive mistake. The biggest problem is when the BTL is turned up, ITS impossible to hear the mid-basses straining. ALSO the midbass amp keeps overheating SO I will be remounting IT under the drivers seat. I have the amp mounted on ITS side in the sealed trunk, with the fins running side to side, SO the worst possible way right now. I hope that this solves the problem or I will be mounting fans or switching to a class D. As far as the midbasses, I am using some FREE sony subs I had laying around right now. I am planning on buying some 10"er's that have a higher RMS rating SO they can handle more thermal abuse. Yes I am a Young Bull, BUT thats how I learn.

What brought you to your final choice for the sub and enclosure set-up? I know you have did your homework and contacted ALOT of people on the subject, SO what fueled your decision? How do you expect the sub/enclosure to sound?

Thats my Nigga right there. I'm STILL bumpin' the TOO $HORT!!!

I just got the poles out!!! Now I just gotta get a licence.