j-roadtatts

I was actually interested in the iso setup on the VERY FIRST post, the one you guys have in your rides. The triso is cool also though, I could only imagine that alot of modeling go's into building one of the triso setups. I seen a stroker for the first time the other day also, it was cool TOO, as I LOVE Nostalgic items.

I will be giving the rear doors the same treatment ALSO.hehe. I love this stuff, Its a night and day differnce once installed in the RIGHT spots, the doors DEFINETLY being one of those spots. I will definetly finish my "most effective use of LLP" topic when I am done.

Life is what YOU make it.

I know you'all are talkin' bout yur old subs. Just curious. (I read the whole topic)

Money saved is money earned.

So I assume that you buy the speakers seperate and and a "kit" and mount them together yourself? If so any one have a picture of the kit? I haven't really ever studied the effects of the iso setup, GREAT, now theres something else to add to the list.

Seems kinda slow on the whole site. I guess everyones enjoying the spring wheather. NOT ME GODDAMIT, I woke up this morning and it snowed 2" to 3"s last night and was still snowing.

And then on to finishing the pods. BONDO TIME. The dash pod UNsanded. And then I woke up to FUCKING SNOW this morning. UGHH.

On to the drivers door. Heres the before pic. I already dampend inside the door in this pic. Next is a pic with the aluminum installed. and then a layer of Damplifier Pro installed. I have the LLP cut and ready to go on but ran out of time. Heres some pictures to show how anemic the factory vibration control REALLY is, The stuff they installed factory was spaced 13 inches apart and only in three places total per support rod. Theres none even in this picture. Another angle of the same spot, reference from the old mat. Heres the BIG piece they installed. thanks guys. NOW some pictures of how I solved this ploblem and added a shit load of support to the outer panel. I used the butyl rope and packed a piece along the top and bottom of the support rods. I installed the rope top and bottom the whole lenght of the door. You can buy the Butyl rope from ANY local auto parts store, SO don't worry if you didn't order any with your dampener.

I didn't get a good before pic of the passanger door, But heres the finished picture with the LLP installed. The tape I used looks like normal foil tape, BUT it is NOT. The glue on it is really thick and is stickest tape I have EVER used. the glue sticks perment.PERIOD. you are NOT pulling it back off. PERIOD. I glued the LLP to the door BUT I still like to seal the edges for a TRUE BARRIER. and another angle. The door feels VERY solid.hehe. I will report on the effectiveness of blocking outside noise once I have the drivers door LLPed and get a few days testing.

Give DC Power a call, they are in riverside,CA. Otherwise here are some other companys you can call, Mechman, Ohio genenerator. There are other companys also if these ones don't have what you need. good luck.

Good job on the box and the bracing.

I know how you feel.

Very nice Battery!!! I have the same fuse holder.

Hopefully not offspring of yours?

damn i bet those doors are solid... they are going to be, but thats the idea.hehe. On the other hand the doors are going to be heavy as hell.

With just the 7-8lbs of damplifier already made the door seem like my wife was slamming it every time she closed it. I might need to add a gas strut or something to slow the door down with all that extra weight? We shall see.

The MDF I used came from Lowes, for what its worth. I do NOT have a table saw either, so I hear you about the cuts.(just joking on that one,hehe) The peaky I refer to is not from listening to the box, but knocking on it, I guess peaky is the wrong word maybe, When knocking on the box, the resonate freq. of the MDF sounded higher. My bad for wrong use of words. I don't want to agrue with you guys, I want to learn what your thoughts are on the subject. I started fiberglassing my enclosure and was told not to waste my time. My box is in a DD and is more geared toward SQ. I was using the fiberglass to strenghten the box and also to seal air leaks. WELL when PPL with more experience than me, tell me its a waste of time, I listen BECAUSE If I don't its like telling them to "F" off, and was pointless to ask thier advice in the first place if I am NOT going to use it. SO here we are today dicussing the subject, Like I said I personally can think of pro's and con's to using it. In competition I "guess" that it could be dependent from one car to the next and should be tested. For an everyday box used for normal music listening and an occasional burp, what benifits do YOU GUYS (ibanender, shizzzon, anyone that has actually had a fiberglassed box) think the benifits could be. i.e. material strenght gains, maybe less flex, help or hurt SQ, What changes in sound where achived, any change in box tuning, possibbly peakier/flater response curve, db gain/loss, more mechanical noise, warmer sound, slow down/speed up sound waves/air flow, destructive destortion/canellation from reflections inside the box, affects from rapid wheather changes, tranfer of car borne noises through material???????? I would LOVE to hear from people that have REAL EXPERIENCES and not just opinions. The last one was put on the list BC my box seems to transfer trunk noise in to the cabin more. (sealed trunk, forward facing)

I love weed.

The Box Looks good, you are defeinetly someone others here could get insipration from.

what kind ATV you speak of? My wife has a Yamaha 660 Grizzly and I am riding a Honda TRX300, The Yami is a BMF but I like the low center of gravity and maunal shifting on my Honda. (maybe some pics )

The Mid-bass shall be EPIC!!!!!

thats alot of posts.

The ATV ride was gOod. Always a nice break from the everyday.