j-roadtatts

I'm Fuckin' starvin' man. I have been running all day, I think I will get some take-out on my way home here in a minute. Chinese or Mexican?

I alway's try to K.I.S.S. but seem to fuck up along the way.lol. I have had a box or two that NEVER got covered. My ear's NEVER knew the difference.

Now that's nice and simple. Lookin' gOOd Brother Chop. What ya covin' it with?

No, Are you planning on going there? I want to visit the Redwood's this year, maybe I will haul my pop-up camper. Anybody ever camped in the Redwood Forest?

My install will be done tommarow (finally), Then I will post for you Nathan.

Fuck no, I have been focusing on the trunk. I still need to LLP the rear deck and then I can re-install the upholstery. Let me tell you guy's as soon as I LLP'ed the rear wheel well's The noise floor got cut in half, And anything else I can hear is through the door's now.

Believe me guys I am not trying to argue that any wire is better, as I haven't tryed very many. But I making sure that the OP understands amp load's SO help me out. YES I AM A MAST-DA-BATER.lol.

And believe me you could learn from my mistakes.

Does this "welding wire" have a brand name or is it just whatever you can find? How can you compare? I can buy some REALLY CHEAP 1/0 on Ebay, but if it take's 2 run's to equal 1 of alittle bit more expensive wire, HOW DID YOU SAVE ANYTHING? To the OP, if the wire you have now can handle 200 amps ea. and you don't need a ground wire, then use them both for + wire and this is the cheapest. If you want to add another + wire just make sure they two wires combined can carry your amp load demand. The choose of where you get the wire is your's and as you can see could be different for several different reason's. Anybody else have a comparision picture?

Why do people trip over dollar's to pick up dime's? If ALL that is important is money, way even ask, just do what's cheapest. Different folk's, different stroke's I guess?

Why do people trip over dollar's to pick up dime's? IDK

I am not saying welding wire won't work, It will just corode quicker and isn't always cheaper. WHY PAY MORE? Because you can get 1/0 ga. wire that is closer to 2/0 ga. in strand count, this is why you get what you pay for.

Welding wire may be cheap but, will corode sooner and can be stiff to work with. I recommend Knu Konceptz or Stinger, each of these companys makes several different style's of 1/0. Look them up and you will learn ALOT about wire. and remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

My alarm go's off if the trunk is opened.

Well Here is where I am at right now in the trunk.

You better just stand back and watch then, you might learn something.

Don't brag and show off you equipment to EVERYONE for starters, This includes bumping in the residential's. But yes getting an alarm and mount your stuff way's it hard to get to.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/assets/pdf/PowerWireSpec.pdf Use this chart. NOT ALL 1/0 WIRE IS EQUAL. The KOL wire refered to in this chart is closer to 2/0 by strand count and can carry up to 300 amps. Now with all that being said, I would just use the 2 runs you have now for + wire and just ground the - wire to the car, with a bolt, through the floor w/lock nut. If you don't have voltage drop from the front batt to the back batt you don't need a - wire run. What brand of 1/0 do you have now?

Good for fisting MAYBE?

I have an orbital sander I clean cut's and router job's up with. What are you covering everything with? Does your router bit have the bearing on it? Try taking less material away each pass.

I am HAPPY to see a guy with patience. The trunk is lOOkin' gOOd brother. I like the Amps side by side, look's cleaner(layout A). What is the router doing to the edge's to fuck em' up?

.

Welcome Brother, Glad to have You here. Don't forget the Picture's.

Thanks for having me guy's!!! I honestly quit reading ALL other forum's when I found you guy's, I just don't have a need to go anywhere else.