j-roadtatts

I'm curious which alpine tweeter are you referring to?

They make an adjustable upper control arm for most vehicles, that you can use to raise it back up if you need a more cost effective approach.

Unless your alternator is rated at 300 amps AND the big3 wires are more then 4 feet, there is no need to upgrade. A 4ga wire can hold 250 amps at 4 feet, just to give you some perspective. The build is loOking good btw!

Sony Cyber-Shot

I knew you guys would like that A-pillar design! Its kinda sexy an shit. The wood template I posted in my ride is for a large format tweeter, but was the same size so figured why not post it. lol

I'm all for you doing a 3-way brother. I would hope to see the end results if not a build log too. I have no problem measuring the fit of the anarchy for you as would love to pick a set up soon for myself. As far as full rangers, all that have been discussed will sound good. Each will have a slight advantage. You have done your homework, now go pick the one that has the advantage you care about most. There will always be a trade off. tweeters are my weak point. BUT I would do a RR for a 3-way if it were me. By design they should be more linear on the top end and reach waaaaaay farther. Just my two cents.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. With a tweeter covering the top and a midbass covering the bottom, the 4" would not be restricted on either end in a small pod correct??? *Sealed and/or ported with fill depending on modeling

Came out with about 3mm of clearance between the steering pump, fuel line and fuel pump. 3mm is as good as a mile anyways!

Now to re-tune the Holley for about the 20th time. I'm kinda pissed that I have been tuning against the pump this whole time, but oh well.

I dismantled the original, just for inspection. Come to find out was a poorly seated valve, and not the diaphragm. Either way was the only part not replaced in the fuel system, so was needed anyways. The right side of the top valve.^ A couple taps with a socket and hammer before putting back together and hanging on the wall for art.^ And the beefier guts of the Edelbrock, Since I had to disassemble to clock the housing.

Finally got this thing installed and plumbed this morning. Took a few attempts and trips to the hardware store to get the lines in a decent spot.

The other funny thing is RMS power can roughly be doubled for every octave over resonant frequency a speaker is crossed. As it is effectively forcing the speaker to be more efficient, and RMS is basically a measurement of efficiency with other parameters accounted for.

Funny thing is over here on the SQ side, ppl run 3-4 times RMS power to their drivers. BUT to gain a greater dynamic range in frequency response for split bursts, not all out continuous SPL.

Unfortunately the Seas ER on sale are actually a little different than the guy I confused it with. the sale one lacks motor strength. This is the ONE I confused it with, and would of been a steal at the sale price. anyways. A TRUE Midbass is an easy one though. Motor strength all the way to the end of the throw and Sd pretty much win. Give me a few days and I will check if the Anarchy will fit, as I would like to know also. Here's another full ranger to check out . I would think the the impedance curve would be worth looking at for a car application? Correct Sean? Same with the enclosure, Wouldn't the size be less important in a car application Sean? Being its not going to play as low as on your desk...

Them guys seem to blow a lot of subs to pull those numbers is all know.

Don't know if it's been said yet, but the comp guys your talking about find the resonate frequently of vehicle itself. Then tune to that frequency. Most off the shelf ported boxes at audio shops are tuned 35-45hz, with a super small port. Because the average person is wowed by how loud it is, not how low it goes. it takes a lot more power to get loud at 32hz compared to 40hz. The 40hz will be loud to your ears. The 32hz will crush your chest and throat, make the earth shake and still not be as loud.

I got it to plateau right at 195 for the last couple hrs. Could of left it longer and wouldn't of went up.

We had tech difficulties though, (user error) or would of been done on time. Started it the night before, but the timer got set wrong. So just chilled in there for the first night. Bahaha

The brisket didn't end up getting pulled until nine o'clock last night. Good thing I had a back up plan. I did slow and low. Uncovered in a pan at 235 for the around 6 hrs. Then covered and bumped up to 250 for 5hrs. Drained about half the juice and smoked one more hour uncovered. Placed in the cooler at 9pm and left it for the night. No marinade. Just rinsed and a homemade rub of brown sugar, salt, pepper, paprika and chili powder. I used apple wood for the first half, then switched to mesquite the rest of the way. When I checked this morning, it pulled apart with a fork and was still nice and moist! Taste test tonight! I had the sweet potatos and asparagus prepped for sides. Will be an easy dinner for the W tonight.

Possibly people have figured out how to tune them better since they have been around awhile. More selection of subwoofers that will tolerate that type of enclosure perhaps. They can definitely be hard on drivers, especially if it is not designed to handle the alignment.

I still own a q-logic prefab 4th order. Hehe They are VERY efficient and can be done right. Definitely capable of creating chest crushing bass on very little power would be their highlight.

Hoffmans iron law. The answer is simple and an iron clad law of physics at that. Otherwise there's nothing you can't model simply with a program such as WINisd. The 4th order can easily end up a one note disaster. Everyone figured that out in the 90's. Lol

Hey dude, you might want to troll the Specials section. I found this GEM that is VERY tunable among other great specs!! I run this drivers sister as my mid, so can verify they fit beautfully. They are hard to beat at that price, and you could even justify picking up 4 of them pretty easily at that price too.

A few pics to show you roughly how a 4" will fit. More for a visual in general, for you and the misses. Not steering you in that direction, but figured you'd appreciate the reference for what your planning! Although this setup would be stellar!! A link to the bottom pics build log. https://www.extremeaudio.org/nissan-audio-upgrade-for-richmond-client/#jp-carousel-3004

The midbass I'm running is 5.5 inches deep. The factory 6 x 9 is 3.5. That's clearly just the motor, not the whole Diameter of speaker. so the motor will hang into the hole in the door already. I cannot verify that the anarchy motor fits through the hole in the door, without measuring though. As far as clearance in front of the midbass, under the grill. Match the height of the factor adapter and recess the speaker into the baffle. Just like the pic I showed you. If you can run a jigsaw and put together Legos, it's a snap. I ran a paper cone fountek 3" in my last car. I did not run a tweeter. It was a ridiculously bass heavy car, with 12 inch mid basses in the door. A tweeter wouldn't of been bad, just for the sparkle and airiness. But I rarely if every missed having one in that ride! With that said, I would of probably run a ring radiator tweeter with said set of 3"s. As the RR will cover the top end response better than a dome. Bummer you can't talk her into a 4" and a tweet. That would be the perfect combo to fit on the dash in that ride.