j-roadtatts

Where trex REALLY shines is as handrails, but that's added cost.

Those mountains.... flat land is so damn boring! You would feel SOOO claustrophobic nestled in these mountains. I can't imagine ever having claustrophobia, agoraphobia possibly, though the closest I've come to that is big sky at night. I was raised in the Appalachian mountains. I miss the mountains but not enough to put up with the cold just yet. Snowbird?

Mine comes up to almost double that. ouch I am just going to paint the rear deck, but will still trex the front when I rebuild it. I am thinking the textured paint might last a little longer. Haven't picked a brand yet though.

You're really not the only one, that's the current situation I'm in right now. I love to cook but I hate only cooking meals for me and I'm not super into left overs. I love leftovers, said no one ever. Learning to make smaller batches is key.

I bet your excited! How soon til the bass drops?

Hopefully you can go visit mom when you need a home cooked meal. Didn't you know, we renamed the hop Seans food network. My mother stopped cooking too. She does small prepared meals through out the day. My sister, on the other hand, is a great vegetarian cook. Your sister and I would get along great. I practically live on veggies!

Those mountains.... flat land is so damn boring! You would feel SOOO claustrophobic nestled in these mountains.

IDK if they are HiPo, but highly doubt it. Was a 2bbl stock iirc. Heres the thing Ryan, cousin is a moron. I have not met him yet. BUT based on the rest of the car, I am sure he went all tweeker on it, and just threw the cam in there. "Dude, its ready for the track maaaan!!!!", were his exact words when BIL got it from him. And believe me, there was nothing ready about the car. I just test drove. Now need to reset the idle curb speed bc its stalling stopped in gear. No hesitation though!!! So here's where I think I'm at. I don't know shit about how its built, other than the heads are to small for what I am trying to achieve. I may just be chasing my tail trying to tackle this on my own. I think my best resource is to go talk to a person at a local engine shop.

Wait, are you saying I should be on the short bus?

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump.Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs.I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. If you're running fine and not getting any knock, I wouldn't worry about your timing. Just be aware hotter air is less dense and more prone to preignition. Your cam may be advanced ir retarded depending on sprockets. So you are saying I may need to back the advance off bc its warmer ouside now? How would the cam sprocket play into the equation, or how could it effect me?

Factory heads.

I think a lot of my problem is Several small vacuum leaks. Too small to detect with propane or carb cleaner. I reinstalled the card last night and feel I eliminated that leak. I am going to recheck the torque on the manifold. Then cap All vacuum lines again. I feel I may have the wrong PCV valve also. I will do this and report back after a shakedown run. I have an awesome gradual sloped Road next to my house that is great for applying a load.

On the plus side, I got to watch Ivy whoop ass in tennis yesterday!

Unfortunately cousin had the motor built, BIL bought it from cousin and lost the paperwork for the engine work. I doubt that the heads were done though. They did not even look ported when I had the manifold off.

I do think the key after all little things are sorted out, will be dialing the accerator pump to fill the void. Timing is numero uno in the whole process though.

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. Have you done head work? Even with a big bump stick that carb is too big. And btw, you ARE looking for efficiency. Power is proportional to efficiency. I have not done head work. My understanding is a bigger carb will net in poorer fuel economy only. The efficiency I think I am looking for is max cylinder pressure.

I have the arms gap shrunk at this point, anymore and it will pop the diaphragm.. I installed a 35 nozzle last night, up from a 31. The carb has the 35cc accerator pump, any bigger nozzle requires a 50cc pump be installed. The thing is the accelerator pump is about 15th in the order of tuning.

I would say the stumble is less at higher RPM's, really bad at idle and when punched at low cruising speed. I realize a vacuum leak will effect the lower rpm range as it has more effect at that point. I think I may have several very small leaks and is causing diagnostics to be more difficult. Most of my symptoms seem to point to that. There is a mechanical fuel pump now, which feeds the correct pressure at idle. I will check for fluctuations in fuel pressure at high rpms, when I fire it up this morning. May not be the sole causes, but I think its a good start.

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum.

Stock cam? Does it fall instantly, or gradually, or at high rpm? It has a very lumpy cam. The fall is instant when you try to get into it.

This is very possible J. Ideally the Holley would have a 3/8 fuel line and electric fuel pump. I replaced the factory 5/16 before I realized this. I have a fuel gauge installed out the carburetor, which reads correctly at 7 lbs. The car runs great once it is through the hesitation though, and screams when you punch it on the highway!! I have the correct electric fuel pump, and may have to replace the line again to 3/8.

Not really an at rpm, just when I gun it. Collates with the vacuum dropping from 8-12 to 1 at best on the gauge. Then the vacuum Rockets back up and the car takes off. Yes the holley has a retarded amount adjustment. The Excelerator pump works off the mechanical linkage, so I would think it would fill the void, once set correctly. I only adjust one thing and then test drive. I bumped up the squirter nozzle, so more fuel sooner. This should be correct based on the power to weight ratio of the car, and tall axle gear ratio. The vacuum still dropped the same but, was a lot less hesitation. Then I tighten down the carburetor more to the manifold, as I suspected I had over tightened, and got a severe vacuum leak. Then I pulled the carburetor, and cleaned the mounting surfaces, and checked the gasket. My torque wrench does not go low enough, so just tightened less than before. Also added washers, don't recall why hadn't added them before. Think I had a slight vacuum leak that I solved. Vacuum still drops to zero when I punch it parked in the garage. And was too late for a test drive, so no test under load yet. So recap, fixed a vacuum leak, and added more fuel sooner via mechanical. Didn't get a test drive yet. If I can't get it in the morning, I will use my phone a friend to call my step brother who is a mechanic.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump. Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs. I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot.

Curiosity is one of my strongest motives.