mikemihai

I will do that, if i have any trouble with it i'll be back on here =), I need to see if theres a way to tune my stock side speakers too they are wired stock to an aftermarket HU, but i dunno much about those other than they kinda suck at higher vol and cant tell if the wrattling that comes out of them is b/c of the plasticky interior(most likely) of my car or if those are clipping from higher vol. I hope its not the sony xplod HU (JOKE OF A HEADUNIT). But once i get a job at school or something I will have to upgrade those too, only prob is they are BOLTED on to a factory mold and theres gonna be a lotta work to get the midranges out and replaced. Anyways, im gonna go try to set it up how you said. Btw since im a noob lol, I didnt understand what u meant by cliking down 3 tracks on the cd, do i like need a full tone test cd with all the frequency tracks like one from rockford fosgate tuning i seen ppl use on youtube videos? I think that one is free to download, im going to go look for it. Thx

yeah i was thinking its going to be something between those lines with testing out based on constant tone on a loop, i want to set it up right tho, hopefully avoid what happened in the past to my sub. p.s. N-am mai fost pe forum de mult timp dar ti-am trimes mesaj inapoi la ce mi-ai scris ultima data acum vre-o luna

I've been told the Subsonic filter is NOT always accurate, with some parts on amps made in bulk somewhere in china trying to cut costs, they can turn out to be less accurate with a subsonic filter resulting in a 20% variance. I guess what im asking is besides looking at the Hz marking alongside the subsonic filter knob, how else can a person figure out what Hz the filter is really set up to. I don't want to set up my filter based on the knob markings thinking its filtering everything below 31 hz when it really is set up to filter below 28 hz. So is there another way to set up the subsonic filter without assuming the standard markings on the knob are accurate. Thx 4 reading

Quote jay-cee "Midrange speakers have nothing to do with which subwoofer would be louder and clearer. If your looking for a loud all around groundpounder then get the BTL and if you want a great sounding woofer that has the ability to get loud then go XCON. Even though it is install dependent the BTL should get louder than the Xcon and the Xcon should produce bass more accurate then the BTL." Not counting loudness(assume music is playing at same volume in both situations) if i were to have a BTL with really good midrange speakers vs XCON with really good midrange speakers, you are saying i will notice the overall difference in music clarity right away with the XCON? Those are both great subs and yes i do understand the XCON is meant for more clarity but would it really be that noticeable im asking? and i cant see why good midranges wouldnt matter much, i belive haveing good midrange speakers would take care of the higher freq bass and then the sub will be used for it was meant to be used and that is more low end bass of lower frequencies. is my logic incorrect?

i was tuned at around 32-33hz. if i tune lower would that make it better for rock and techno house music while making it less as good for rap? Tuning lower= less higher bass, more low bass. I like the kickbass more if a encosure is tuned low. But it wouldn't sound good for techno and house music. Better Midbass would probably make everything sound better. oh crap i just read my post again i was going to say if i tuned higher, not lower, if that would be better for techno & house music lol

dustcap wasn't that hot in the middle , just on the burnt side 3inch away from cone center That sounds exactly like what happened to my 15 fi bl, and spiders on mine look broken just like on urs, dustcap was also super freakin hot on one side, i think it melted a bit, but mine was wired correctly. So the cause of my problem might have been in my box specs and the amp settings.... i dunno im still investigating b/c i dont want same problem twice hey just wanted to edit in im glad for you that u fixed ur problem, those xcon's look awesome, i wish i had a pair =) and im going thru a recone now so i know the feeling of a broken sub sux =( lol

i was tuned at around 32-33hz. if i tune lower would that make it better for rock and techno house music while making it less as good for rap?

Well according to 80%+ of the people here im an idiot on multiple levels, all i want is a sub that sounds great but is at least as loud or lauder than the fi bl i used to have. The fi bl sounded bad on only like 20% of the songs, and the rest 80% were perfect, it happenes that 20% of those songs are some of my favorites, so i want a sub that can do it all without sacrificing much power. Once i get my BL back i might sell it and try out an xcon 15inch, and compare that to my friends btl(which i havent heard yet, but just to get an idea of spl vs sq). I'm really looking for more sound quality so i can play more of my songs sounding great. I've never had the chance to compare an sq sub with an spl sub since i never had 2 of them side by side so i dunno what to expect, so sry for posting a list of subs on the topic that are mixed between spl and sq. Sounds however that most ppl say the xcon is a great sounding sub and pretty loud, probably louder than my bl. So i think thats probably what im looking to get in the future. Thx all for posting. Also if i were to upgrade my stock midrange speakers on the car to something better that could put out the higher freq. bass from like 70 to 80 hz, then setup the sub to take care of anything lower than that, then would that be a much clearer sounding bass? im figuring it would and in that case i might be able to have an spl sub instead that takes care of the bass between 27-69hz and the midrange from 70hz up, so i would end up with a loud and clear bass and throw some tweeters on so i can hear the highnotes too. what do you guys think? i am a newbie so i dont know much of this stuff, so please keep the sarcasm low b/c im not sure when you guys are kidden sometimes and i get confused as hell. okay thx. bottom line: Would a btl with good midrange speakers be louder and as clear as a less as loud xcon with good midrange speakers? -im thinking the higher the frequency the sub has to reproduce like 100hz versus a lower 45hz, then the lower the quality and reproduction of the sound will be at a higher frequency since midrange speakers are usually meant for higher frequencies- correct me if im wrong thx again, pls comment back

@ 42 miles north of chicago by sixflags in gurnee

HOTTT TOPIC: WHO WOULD WIN? SSA XCON 18" VS FI BTL 18" VS digital designs DD9518g VS Incriminator audio's DeathPenalty 18" I like the XCON's they are my number one pick right now, B/C I can afford at least one of them sometime this year and all i read about them is great, but what about the other brands? I am looking for: (In preference order) -Sound quality 1st -Loudness 2nd -size of subwoofer 18" or 15".... maybe just maybe a 12" but i have a feeling that would sacrifice too much loudness for only a minor increase in sound quality. please feel free to recommend any other sub brands and models i should look at, im not buying anything as of yet. I am only looking for a future upgrade, so far i have been pleased with my FI 15"BL, was good for rap, hit low, good with some rock and techno/house, however i think i want something louder, and with more clarity, the clarity on that BL was not the greatest, smaller sized subs with less power sound more clear i've come to notice, but small sized subs are not loud at all so i still want my subs to be loud, yet clear. Help me out with some Ideas guys. I welcome anyone to post as many comments as possible, all ideas welcome even if you think its stupid, please post it. I need feedback. And recommandations to outperform (by a mile) my 15"FI BL, also for clarity, would Sundown be the clearest i see they are powerful at 12v and everyone loves them BUT is there a better brand or equivalent brand in quality and clarity but more affordable. Hifonics worked ok for me with my 15"FiBL. But I'm sure theres better out there, so please give me some imput on some good amp brands too. I'm thinking of moving up the ladder from hifonics, since not so many people like em. Thank you all! P.S. Quality over Quantity

set it to 30hz, its usually is 2hz under what ur box is, just make sure ur box is 32 hz for sure before tuning ur amps subsonic filter at 30hz, bracings and subwoofer depth can steal away space therefore lower ur total box tuning hz, so keep that in mind bro

I've been busy so its been a while since I been on this forum, I still have to go check the setting on what I had on EXACTLY on my amp when this thing burned, and also the pics which I said I was planning to post. Should be posted soon

Getting the yellow tops at a good deal only 225 for all 3.. still has warrant on them. OMG DUDE, how did u find that sweet deal, 3 yellow tops for 225?!?!?!? I got only one for 209, please let me know where u bought yours at, thats a really good deal for 3.

Lol, i just want to on that wall and burn it down.(If it was toyota that were to hit the wall...id get a replacement ) So the bracing and sub adds @ 2 more hz to the box making it at @33hz, is that what killed it u think? I mean it ran fine for ( i counted today) 7 months, so its just weird to me, im gonna check again the settings on the amp to see what the subsonic filter was set to. supposed to be 2hz under the box's hz. On the website it says have it tuned at around 33hz so the box is not out of specs also, for port area it says 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot. I have a 66inch vent area with 4.611 cubic feet (7964cu inch) so im within limits(14square inch vent area per cu foot) according to re audio, but i know after the bracing its really @ 170-200 less cubic inches, so not a big difference at all. then about .21 cu ft displacement from the sub. so im not sure how u got a larger spec for the box ("Which would mean the box is 4.83 cubic feet".) either. Also the bracing & sub should not bring the total cubic feet down by much, leaving still about a 15.3 cubic inches of vent area per cubic foot of space, so im still within the 12-16 inch specs off the fi website.Sooo, in other words my box should be okay, im gonna check my subsonic filter to see if that is set around 31hz for the 33hz box, b/c if it was lower all this time then thats not good. I remember after my friend and i set it up, i didnt touch it anymore, so i dont rem exactly what it was left at, i just kinda assumed its set around @30 hz. but im gonna check to make sure. and post again if the subsonic filter its okay, then assuming the amp has no bad parts then neither the box or amp caused any problem, so im gonna check my battery to see if theres a huge voltage drop on a deep beat, and also gonna check my head unit to see if theres anything wrong with that. Alsooo i need to know how much a recone would cost me and what does it come with, i looked on the site already and was a little confused, didnt see anything talking about spiders, i need a new spider, VC its okay, it can be reused in fact is that possible? its still good it seems and had the more expensive flatwind wire or whatever its called. Also does the recone come with new cone and dust cap? so basically they gonna repair my sub to like new conditions? if so then how much $$$ will it be to send it in, not counting shipping? Thank you A recone includes the spiders, former, vc, cone, and surround all in one unit that you replace. im a , well thats good that a recone includes just about everything minus the magnet and basket(optional), i was hoping it included spiders which seems that all what the sub needs beside having the VC moved back up around a quarter inch in place from where it slipped. If i have to pay for a recone, that would be my best option instead of buying a new sub(which i cant afford anyways)

It almost appears they automatically added the end correction to the port length. That would explain why RE came up with 31.5" and actual physical length is 29.5", assuming half port width for end correction. RE is still inaccurate with the way it calculates volume, I'd be curious to see how that program calculates its net internal volume. No idea.. I don't use it for good reason. I use a pen and a piece of paper and a calculator.. It's just geometry Essentially that is what I do, I just set up a spreadsheet to calculate it for me on the fly. I really liked ur schematics, I'm not really good with excel tho so i cant make it that far as finding measurements with excel, but ur stuff looked very professional