SuBXeRo

I have been eyeing secondskin for about 3-4 years now i think and just never got around to using it. I got a 2008 altima 4 door with the 2.5 and well, weight is an issue for me overall. The car is amazing at hauling heavy loads up hill but im just worried about responsiveness. I plan to put in some Rainbow SLC 6.5 NG's and i want to kinda beef up the door a bit. I was looking at the Damp lite and was figuring that with its cost and realtive weight to square foot that this would be the product for me. Im not doing any SPL comps, just looking to increase the sound quality of my audio system while reducing door vibration. I am also trying to be cost concious with whatever i do. Any suggestions on the amount that i would need? It is a 4 door and i will add comps to the rear door since it already has a midbass cutout, so 4 doors and then probably a layer to the rear deck as well as the trunk lid.

I used 4 gauage for 1000 watts and no issues. 4 gauge is rated up to like 1500 watts safely i think. I was in a similar position as you, debating how large my new grounds would be, i found that my grounds were 6 gauge and i never really had any issues with that believe it or not. I would have most likely bought 2 gauge had i redone it but like it was said before, the bigger wire you get the better. Electricity always takes the shortest path of least resistance and when you get a larger wire, the resistance at higher current will be less than if you were using as smaller gauge cable. Since money seems to be an issue, i would say you would be fine with a 2 gauge cable. If you really just wanted to go all out and never really worry about those grounds again, i'd go with the 1/0 cable. Either way, if you are running that 1000 watts plus stock stuff, the 2 should be enough. Get yourself an optima batt too, they help alot.

I read through all the posts thus far, if i repost an ideam i apologize, not trying to snatch your ideas, alot of them have just been thrown out so far . Second Skin Coronal Mass Ejection Protection Second Skin Chromosphere Second Skin Maximum Protection Second Skin Heatsink Second Skin Divine Heatsink Second Skin HeatWave Second Skin Scorcher Second Skin-A-Blaze Second Skin Sub-Zero Second Skin Chill-Out

well i looked in the manual and it didnt really explain any of it just said 4-8ohm load which isnt very descriptive. What is the reason for not installing the rear comps?

I understand the concept of bridging and individual channels and the impedences that the amp handle. What i dont understand is that load that would be created in a 6 channel tri mode on the 100.4. I am planning to get this amp and rainbow slc 265.25 ng's for my fronts and rear doors and they are 4-ohm comps. Np with that but i was peaking at the manual and noticed you could do a 6 channel tri mode and if i added mid bass or subwoofers, what wattage and impedence would be put onto the amp. This is a concern because i don't want to ruin any speakers that i add. I am really trying to create a good sounding system, i care more about bass created by speakers than having to add subs because i would have to do an IB or put a box in which i dont want to do if i can help it. I have had subs and my taste changes time to time and right now, a good, clear, responsive system is what i want. I am replacing my front comps and adding comps to the rear doors since i have a woofer mount i only need to drill for the tweet and then i have 2 6x9's in my rear deck. the 6x9's in the rear deck i was going to nix i think and just do the front and rear doors but from what i understand the rear deck works well for midbass. Thoughts?

I had thought about that at one time but tbh, i would never do it. I don't ever keep my subs on all the time with my stereo, i dont have the money to get a larger alt and i don't feel like straining it or killing my battery all the time. I just don't like my subs to be on all the time. This is one reason why i really would like to concentrate on my components instead.

I did some searching all over the net and here and really didn't see anything much on MB Quart stuff. I am checking out components to pair with a sundown amp in the future and MB Quart kinda caught my eye. I know they were good in the past when they werent owned by maxxonics and have heard mixed reviews since their merge. I am kinda wishy washy with what i actually wind up doing but i am looking for comps for the front to replace the ones i have no, 6.5's, my rear doors have midbass which i want to replace with a second set of comps and my rear deck is compose of 2 6x9's which i want to swap out for 2 midbass addons. Any input? Im looking around the 200ish mark for each component set, looking to buy online too from a site with a 1 year warranty through them, authorized dealer is always good too. The sundown amp i will get from around here

Hey all, new to the forum, poor atm, love audio, both home and car. I have 2 2005 model alpine type r's in a custom sealed and an rf 1001bd not hooked up. I bought a 4door 08 altima 2.5s last august, well rather leased now by my parents and i will purchase offlease since i grad college in december. I got the basic audio system and i am looking to beef things up in the future. I have heard excellent things about sound splinter and will probably get their midline 12" or 2 in the future with a sundown audio amp. None the less, now that my little spiel is done, i am wondering about passive radiators. Now i know these are quite common in higher end home theater and i have read some advantages and disadvantages of them over time. Now, i like the idea of passive radiators because they dont create port turbulence since there is no port and you are able to maintain more of a frequency range. Thats really all i know. Have any of you done passive radiators with your subs?