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The XXX drivers also have quite low FS, lower than probably 98% of other car audio drivers. And are also low Q drivers. So which of these individual parameters makes it a low end monster, and why did you choose xmax to represent it as such? The thing is just that xmax is soooo easy to market because you see a subwoofer move. To 99% of people buying a subwoofer, more movement = better in their eyes. JBL's in the game like everyone else...they have to sell things. Truth is, I trust JBL probably more than any "mass marketed" company since you can actually contact them and they will tell you what you want to know. They publish full T/S specs. Even the global product manager (Andy Wehmeyer) posts on DIYMA, and he know his stuff. I mean...he knows his audio, not just the products I don't want to see my drivers move at all Multiple drivers = increased SPL = decreased Xmax = decreased distortion...so many wins in one! And then there is the situation where the box Qtc will equal the driver's Qts, further complicating things...except for infinite baffle when that's ideal 2x IB15s in a 14 cu ft trunk, for example.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power. What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire? I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator.

You would still only need one run of remote wire from the relay to the back of the car, as the back is where you'd put the barrier strip. But either way works. Not that I don't agree with you, since if you're like me you use a power wire from your distribution block to power the relay, and that's in the back of the car. So you'd have to run a wire for that to your dash if that's what you used for power. Same thing with ground wire if you use a distribution block for it with multiple amps in the back (or if you just want to ground to the same place with all of your electronics). We're on the same page lol...I should have been more clear. I meant...probably don't want to mount the barrier strip near the front...that's why you'd have 3 runs Plus stuff in the trunk is easier to find a spot for and tie down.

Me? My amps only have a 40A fuse, a 30, and a 25 It'd be mostly for looks cause TechFlex is sexy

Well I guess a severe compromise is in order for right now. I can save money in the future and go the ID ultra route. So I guess I should either go passive or maybe a 7 or 8 midbass and a tweeter I can cross pretty low. Either way I want to mount in the kicks and angle towards the passenger and the other side angle at myself, unless having them on-axis to a point head high between the passenger and myself would work better. If I do a passive, I could do a nice two way, or three way with a larger midbass and keep it in the door, leaving the mid and tweet in the kick. Out of those choices, what is looking the best for more than average midbass and less harsh, natural highs? Most likely I guess I would be looking at an oversized soft dome tweeter possibly. Something like a Vifa 25XTBG60-04, Morel CAT 308, or even a Dayton RS28A (even though it has an aluminum dome I heard it is not harsh in an automotive environment), plus they all seem to have a relatively high power handling to make up for the lack in efficiency. For mids I would need something with response to about 60-70 Hz I am guessing which shouldnt be hard for an 8, but response above 3-4kHz while still providing more than average output may be a limiting factor. I am still open to the idea of multiple mids too. Thanks. Horns only go up in price from the IDs. Wayyyyyy up...think $2k apiece. A 3-way is hard to do...but...there is a Hertz 3-way passive kit out there (one for sale on DIYMA now). What's killing your options is needing to play low and high. That's what led me to the H Audios. They're only 6.5s but can play low and match with dang near any tweeter since they can go to 4kHz. I was going to go with a 3" full range from 400Hz on up but that is a lot of frequencies to play. Instead, I'm going to cross them high where the Ebonys leave off...probably 2k-ish. That avoids crossing in the vocal range which leads to other issues. Cancellation depends on what's happening. In home theater, for example, you can run subs facing each other in an infinite baffle manifold, and that cancellation can stop vibrations It's better to have to EQ "down" rather than "up," so if you can minimize a peak and shift it to a place where there's a dip, it's all good For a "loud" 3"er, gotta get one with Xmax, big-ish Vas, and higher Qts so it can go in a bigger enclosure. Most of these smaller ones only take 15w and have an Xmax of less than 3mm. There is a Fostex out there that does 6mm I think. Time for some education Zaph|Audio Know how to read FR graphs?

If I ever get around to doing it, I'd do the battery ground in 4ga, starter in 8, fuse panel in 8, trans ground in 4 (it's like 18"), and the engine ground in 4 Alternator in 4 as well.

You don't start having "directional" sound until about 2,000Hz. Lowering the XO point on the tweeters made everything sound better since it was taking over some frequencies blocked by your leg. Have you tried mounting the tweeter near the mid? Use the stock passive just to start. As for the A Pillar garnishes...I'd put them on while testing just to see what (if any) effects they cause.

I can't disagree with you there What if we compromise a little...for cost, especially...and run 8ga for the big 3? Copper Knu wire in that size is 65 cents a foot. Well...depending on the vehicle I guess. Mine only has 8-ish gauge or 10ga for most things.

I haven't really paid too much attention to 8s since I can't fit em. Never used horns so I don't know which ID would work better. That said, I can't really help a ton in that area. Multiple tweeters, if they are in different locations, will be tough to deal with. Already, with one pair of tweeters, you're really hearing at least 4 due to reflections. Unless the pair were right next to each other, I'd keep looking at horns or finding a tweeter you could put on axis...maybe a ring radiator tweeter?

Kesslers = mixer Bought some Maker's Mark yesterday...first whiskey I've had in a couple months. Forgot how much I love whiskey

To do that, you'll have to (in short) increase cone area, Xmax, sensitivity, and install techniques. It doesn't have to be expensive if you pick right and install using good methods. If I were you, I'd search for the biggest speaker you want to fit in the doors. Don't worry about power handling. 8 ohm drivers are more sensitive than 4 ohms, generally speaking. Some 8s would be ideal if you can fit em...budget wise...there's a ton. Morel CW8s, bunch of others. For me, pro audio stuff isn't a great choice in the car. They are meant to be loud, yes, and they are sensitive. They usually have a higher frequency range but play higher. A pro 8" probably won't play as low as a good 7" properly suited for your install, defeating half the purpose of a big driver in the door. Etc...

I agree with Sean. I'm not sure about the specifics of those Focals, but most (generally speaking) "off the shelf" component sets have the tweeter crossed way higher. My MBQ passives were 5200Hz, for example. Try crossing higher, in the 4kHz range and see what happens. Those Scans mids won't work too well in a door. Low Qts, low inductance, small Vas...I was looking at em earlier Small sealed or small vented, not "large sealed" like a car door. I have a pair of H Audio Ebonys on the way. Expensive, but shallow at ~2.7" deep and WILL play 63-4000Hz without question. Edit: The Vifa tweeters are reportedly very nice.

Hmmm...I wonder if there's anywhere we could look to find Xmax vs SPL and T/S explanations... Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm SSA Car Audio Forum -> Technical Info & How To's

Your stock wire went shitty on you. There's no way you'd dip to 9V without an issue of some kind, like bad wire.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp. Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter... People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

mmmm...not really. The only way the big 3 will help with a stock alternator is if the ground wires/alternator wires are badly corroded or the insulation is cracked. Think...the stock alternator outputs 80A. What's the point of having 350A (1/0 cable) worth of current potential? It's like peeing in a ditch. Sure, it feels good, but there's no way you're going to fill it up. The stock big 3 wires are enough to handle all the current flow of a stock charging system. If they were not, they would have melted long ago You can't make more voltage using bigger wire unless, like I said, the wire is either compromised or too small.

You can put the relay anywhere you want. Closer to the amps is recommended so you don't need 3 runs of wire the whole length of the car Also makes it easier to mount the relay and barrier strip to the amp rack or where ever.

Cheap, clean, loud. Pick 2. You won't get "louder" than horns unless you move to multiple smaller drivers, say, on the dash. Think "line array." Midbass...might as well go to an 8, or add another pair of Anarchys. Not running 6,000 watts of power for basically one octave of music might bring the front speaker selection into a clearer perspective. Just sayin.

Crown is delicious, although I prefer bourbon whiskey over Canadian whiskey. On the rocks With Pepsi Throwback With 7up/Sprite Indeed

As an Accord fan, I can tell you that only the DX models were 135hp. The 98-02 LX and EX 4 cylinders are 150hp, but you can't get a V6 manual unless you go to an 03+ which come in 6 speed and in sedan form, if you so choose. Those, naturally, have quite a bit more power than the 98-02 4 cylinders and also more than most of the cars you've already listed They aren't light nor small, but pulling the back seats for a sub? Come on...ditch it for a pair of 15s. You can find V6 6spd coupes around $11k on a fairly regular basis...the sedans are a little more rare Plus you won't have the jacked up insurance of anything with a GTi, WRX, or SE-R in the model name

Ok, that's 2 confirmations! I can't take credit for that idea (user AccordFlex suggested it) but good to see it works Here is the thread on 6GA if you get around to registering and posting...I'll be putting a post in there right now Voltage Drop Question - 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Honda Electronic Load Detection system! This post basically sums it up 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums - View Single Post - Voltage Drop Question If these cars were offered in Japan, we could simply swap to a JDM ECU. What I've thought about so far are a couple things: -(Kind of confirmed from another 6GA member) Drive with your headlights on -(Unconfirmed as of right now) Add in the Canadian OEM DRL module so there is a constant load -(Unconfirmed) Convert to OBDI with a P28 or P13 ECU -(Undone as far as I'm aware) Add some kind of resistor network to the ECU to fool it -EDIT: (Would have to ask a tuner) Remove ECU and move to a standalone like AEM EMS So options are slim as of right now. Try your headlights for now, I guess. To fix the ELD issue, the load/fix will NEED to be recognized by the ECU. Pulling power off the battery using a relay harness or amp power wire doesn't work...hence the ELD kicking in. Edit: Had the ECU numbers backwards. Fixored.

THIS. Heck, I have 2 blocks...one for power and one for ground distribution. All those little electric molecules don't care what they flow through

I know how to use WinISD, don't worry. It's a mid-Qts sub with a large Vas...how do you think it's going to model? It'll be a big box, of course. there are very few 15" woofers that would be satisfied with 2cuft ported and hit the lows well . however you did forget to take the gabin gain into account AND the Le filled in with the T/S, which would change the graph . stuffing would partially take away the bump , all that results in something very different from what you're telling this woofer could end up in a ported 3.5 cuft box and with an almost flat response in-car without EQ'íng but with the right fine-tuning . The IA is a very nice sub though . That's exactly why WinISD gave such a big box. Few 12s would do well in a 2 cu ft ported box, even. I can name a couple off the top of my head like the Dcon and Dayton HO. MB's T/S specs don't list an Le, and I don't trust anyone but the maker with specs. I've seen sensitivities of subs be off by 8dB relative to another reseller's site. I couldn't factor in cabin gain since the car wasn't mentioned. My car's is around 50Hz (awesome) so that's about all I know. Is it a truck? Hatch? Wagon? We don't know... 3.5 cu ft is well and good...if we knew how much space there was available (in preference or in the car)...

I know how to use WinISD, don't worry. It's a mid-Qts sub with a large Vas...how do you think it's going to model? It'll be a big box, of course.