BryanTheCEO

When your dad walks you to school because he's in the same grade as you.... Oh no, that's a redneck, nevermind, lol When you keep browsing the classifieds for more amps and subs even though you know you're too broke to buy any...

That is not even a comparison, for those goals then go for the BL's. Income tax check say what?! lol

I can't disagree with that statement. I plan on switching to BL's from Q's hopefully in a few months. The title of the thread though is, fi q 15" vs kicker cvx 15", so I chimed in on that since I have had experience with both....

That is a horrible recommendation. Your thinking about this completely wrong. Please read. I didn't make a recomendation... I was not recommending the Q over the Kicker comp, I stated that from my experience it was still louder despite being a SQ sub and that I think the deeper bass feels more powerful. Obviously comparing a kicker comp to a Fi Q would not be apples to apples.

The Q is a SQ sub, but it gets damn loud for a SQ sub. I think is the right application, then yeah it will still be louder then the Kicker comp. The lowend will definitely have more power then the comp and for my personal taste, the lowend always "feels" more powerful then the upper bass freqs. IMO Deep bass = more intimidating then upper bass, even if it doesn't meter quite as high.

Yeah, both are beefy and I don't think you can go wrong with either sub. Just seeing what other people think and if anyone has experience with both.

How do these two stack up against each other? I like Fi, but am now the owner of a DC amp. Matching equipment might be nice. Plus, I don't think anyone in Miami has DC.

I PM'd back with specs, that work. I just need a price shipped to 33189. I'm too lazy and don't have a table saw...

Not trying to hijack, but this is a similar question between the Q's and BL's. As stated in another thread, I am building a box for my pair of Q15's. After displacement, the box will be ~7.6 sqft tuned to 30-32hz. I will be running a DC Audio PIA2000.1 @ 1ohm (2200w rms +/-). My goals are "SQL". I need a daily setup that hits deep, yet can so some damage on the meter still. The Q's have worked out well, but how much of a difference would I theoretically notice by switching the Q15's out for BL15's in the exact same setup?

I never noticed a difference, but then again, I never ran them separately once I got the 2nd pair. The only reason I ask, is because I am selling 2 of them this week and well, I just might want to keep teh better pair, lol. If there is no difference, then I won't even worry about it. Thanks

Im not sure if the port should go through the rear deck in your case but Ive seen it done here before. I know guys will take out the speakers and/or cut out extra holes in the deck for more spl in the cabin but Im not sure about venting just the port for increasing spl. Just not sure how much the tuning lowers when volume is taken away though. Its probably a steeper scale than you think. From my personal experience in a trunk, firing everything back yielded the best results. If possible find a way to open a clear passage for the bass to reflect off the trunk and pass through the rear deck or seat. I my old honda, I made it so the seat could lean forward. You also want 4-5+/- inches from the sub to the back of the trunk, to give room for the sound to come out without cancellation. I am just drinkin my coffee now, hope that all makes sense, lol..

I bought 2 pairs of Q15's. The 2nd pair was bought a few months after the 1st. I never notice before tonight, but looking at the back of the cones, the paper (or what ever the cone material is made of) on the new cones is more pressed and smoother, then the older pair. The older pair is very pulp like and seems thicker. Does this have any effect on the output or sound of the subs?

TL is more accurate. From when I had my G35 and got metered on a TL @ 143db, I was hitting 148 db on the same AC as in the video. So from my personal experience the AC adds approx 5 db +/- to the TL score... Still loud.

Yeah, in 8 cubes sealed and it sounded fine. This was sealed: Legal

I don't remember the exact dimensions. I know it was 9-10 cubes tuned to something in the 30's. I actually think it was upper 30's since I lost some lowend when I switched from sealed. I was like 25" D x 22" H x 38.5"...Plus it had a section that dropped down into the spare compartment. I could barely see out the rear view, because it was a few inches above the rear seat. ...and no, it wasn't sufficient airspace for 4 15's it was loud, but fail...

Where is the best place to by the aero ports?

Ok, I'll get measurements on accord when he is ready. As for my box, if I add an extra inch to the depth, would that lower the tuning at all? I would like to be between 30-32.

The guy who bought my other two Q15's wants to jam them into a Honda Accord 98 4 dr. Any ideas of the best setup for that, as well?

Should I have the subs firing back with the ports up or ports back and subs up? lol or all firing up? I can probably go an extra 2" on the depth and 1" on height and still be smaller then the last box I had for the 4 15's. That box was just too big...

I already own the Q's. Would the BL's make that much of a difference and would the size limitations I have allow them to bass properly?

Can a pair of Fi Q15's be ported and tuned to 30hz in a properly sized enclosure, if my max external dimensions are 22" (d) x 19" (h) x 38.5" (w)? Less height and depth if possible... I was planning on running them sealed, since I know they have great lowend sealed, but if I can still have great lows with more output, I want to got for that. This is for a Dodge Magnum. My goal is to have the most output while maintaining a somewhat flat response, with the gut twisting lowend.

Can a pair of Fi Q15's be ported and tuned to 30hz in a properly sized enclosure, if my max external dimensions are 22" (d) x 19" (h) x 38.5" (w)? Less height and depth if possible... I was planning on running them sealed, since I know they have great lowend sealed, but if I can still have great lows with more output, I want to got for that.

I know what they are rated on paper. I am asking, because I know alot of lower quality brands, do not put out what they say they will. I wanted to make sure that I choose the amp with the better RMS value and performance per my needs/wants... So I KNOW what I was comparing. I just need clarification on the actual output. Thank you, that was what I was looking for. Maybe not hear the difference, but what about on a meter? Also, running the AP at 4 ohm would be easier on my system so I may just go with that. Plus, the trade for the AP is local, so no shipping needs to be paid or involved.

What prices are you looking at for both amps? If you are comparing 1500D to 3000D then their prices are identical right? Have you looked for some second hand saz1500D? I've seen some for 300$. I don't know how much is AudioPipe but you can find some good amps for cheap. Look here for actual power : SSA Car Audio Forum -> Sundown Technical These are the trade offers for my IA 40.1, which needs to be repaired. I read that page before. If those are accurate marks, then the AP is a more powerful amp, unless I am reading wrong.

lol, I'm a tard... I was thinking that the AP was mono block... So technically, I could run 1 sub per channel @ 2 ohm on the AP and get about 1000 watt RMS, right? Can the 1500D push near 2k @ 1 ohm?