ONE15ISALLINEED

i am interested in a 3 way component system. reason being, one 2 way component system wouldnt be enough for me. i think a 3 way system would be more broader, with a woofer, a vocal mid range driver and a tweeter. i was looking at focals. model 165 A3 from there "Access" line. im not that particular to where i need to hear them before i buy. im sure i would be satisfied. im use to listening to factorys so any component sysem would probably do me good. anybody have suggestions or experience with a 3 way system? and also is the rated rms power totaled between all speakers on each crossover?

so if i were to install the batteries, the 2 fuses between the battery and the rear battery should also be 250a? assuming i would keep the fuse between the second battery and my amp the same size as recommendation for the amp. i am going to order 5ft of red for the alt to battery. and 10ft for the rest of the big 3. one 250a fuse and holder and a new holder and fuse for my amp. i think i will just stick with the 100a. i dont see 90a fuses. looks like i will use the larger style anl fuse for the battery to alt since the mini only holds up to 4g.

i was referring to the wire ran from the positive charge off the alternator to the positive on the battery. and also, if i were to install the second battery, would any other points need to be fused besides the alternator to the battery? ill probably order enough 4g to replace my current power wire to the amp. thats is if when or if i install a second battery. with that said, for now the first thing i am going to stick with is just the big 3 in 0g to see how it helps my electrical system. re route my current amp ground with a grinded down surface, also a more durable point. check my ohm load on the box. new anl fuse holder. the thing about my current amp ground mounting point is i try to mount it to where i can place my amp so i can reach it to adjust if needed. because the box is so huge my placement options are limited, its a 4cube box in a 03 ford taurus. if a second battery install ocurred i think theres enough space beneath the trunk carpet where the spare tire is to sit under there. i have a couple older svr audio series batteries, model svr33-12. a guy gave me them when i purchased a couple w7s last year. i dont know if there good or if they can serve the purpose i need them for. in this case im sure i would just use one of them. its pretty heavy but about half the size of a normal battery. i dont know if you can look up the specs and see if it will work or help, thats if they work.

so if i run a second battery, i can run the ground off my amp to the negative on the rear battery? also in the big 3 upgrade, do i really "need" to run an additional fuse like he had or do i not run enough power to install it? how much 0g would i need on average to do the big 3? 10 maybe 15 feet? my buddy is a mechanic and knows cars and electrical situations. he has also installed car audio. so it should go well. i also noticed the more cost friendly koncepts 0g wiring was 90 percent aluminum and 10 percent copper. is this acceptable? (no i didnt think you were yelling)

i am running 1 diamond audio d6 15" dual 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm. the ground is actually kind of sketchy, i put it to a bolt i found on the side of the trunk frame, since i didnt have a drill. metal is fairly thin compared to the more heavy part of the car frame. i should probably re route that also. ill go ahead and do the big 3 in 0g in the next few days. a quik question - are there certain wire manufactuars to stay away from? theres a more professional shop on the same road as another car audio shop locally. one is authorized for jl, alpine, diamond, pioneer, so on. the other one sells like memphis, american bass, fusion audio. the authorized one goes for 9$ a foot witch is most likely jl wiring. witch is got damn expensive if you ask me, knowing that 0g is more anyways. last time i knew they also have stinger. the other audio shop has 0g for 3.50 but he didnt state what kind. i will also consider another battery. do i have to run an additional wire from the negative terminal car battery to the negative terminal on the extra battery or can i ground the negative terminal off the second battery to the car frame also?

well this amp was purchased used so i dont know how the warranty thing would pan out if anything did happen. im actually going to get a anl fuse holder from my local shop monday. whats the difference in anl and "mini" anl. soon i am performing the big 3 upgrade with either 0 or 4g wiring. but since i run 4 to my amp i dont think 0 is necessary. in this case since i never have and probably never will run enough power to need 0 i might just run 4. i have also been suggested an extra battery. certain songs tend to make the lights flutter badly. i think what i am going to do is get the new fuse, perform the big 3 and take it from there. i known when i had my alpine digital amp it read voltage constantly and it seemed like it stayed around 14v but i never looked at it at high volumes.

i had a song on at about 3/4 of the ways up, with a fairly low bassline in it. and it just cut out. i was driving when it happened. none of my wiring is melted or anything. i pulled the fuses from the amp and they were all popped, one looked slightly melted, maybe it was just the way it looked i dont know. i have 4g power and ground ran, witch is the highest the amp takes up to. it is a 100a maxi fuse installed in the battery fuse holder,(old scosche maxi fuse holder), when i took a second look at the holder when removing the fuse, i recognized a side of the holder looked "shattered" like the plastic expanded in some way, and it was not like that before this incident happened. i just wanted to go over some possibilities to make some slight changes to prevent this from happening and to protect the amp. so what size fuse should i use? im assuming using a anl fuse would be more efficient

would to much current draw occur if the battery fuse is not doing its job? i checked the fuse holder, its actually an old scosche i had from wal mart from a old install, hehe. one side looked kind of busted, first time i noticed after the cut off occured. im gonna get a new quality fuse holder tomorrow.

what would cause fuses to blow on the amp? i dont know if the plastic casing on the fuses just expanded from poppin or the casing of the fuse was slightly melted. there are 3 30a fuses, i am using a 100a maxi fuse on the battery wire (4g). i was using 12g for the speaker wire, witch i now upgraded to 9g after installing the new fuses. the amp seemed to be fine when i checked it out after cutting out. is there a certain fuse you recommend for the amp or size? also, should i use the same size wire to wire the sub inside of the box as same as the speaker wire i got running from the amp? its probably about 12g inside. thanks

ya i know i have to wire both coils together, im just gonna run the wire from the amp to the sub to one set of the terminals. instead of opposite sides

So I can just wire from one terminal to the amp and its still 1ohm. Works for me

ok 12volt has it done the same way RF had it mapped out. is there a reason why jl has the wires going to one set of terminals on the sub from the amp? or was that just jl amplifier specific? it doesnt state that it is though.

ok i have no idea how to wire subs off the top of my head, i have just used charts. i have gathered 2 diff wiring picstures for wiring a 2ohm dvc sub down to 1ohm. one is from rockford fosgate and the other is from the jl audio website. they show different ways of wiring it. where do i go from here?

thats just weird

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/discontinued/sae-1200dv1.html

the aluminum issue shouldnt be an issue. 9/10 times people have there woofers mouted in a box rather than backwards in there trunk or w/e. if so you could make it an option for an additional small fee or soemthing? dunno how that works. cant wait for the new woofer though.

i think you will stick with your sundown once experienced

can i get an average sized one for the back bottom of my window or maybe a side window or something?

any decals?

i was wondering when we should be expecting a full look (pics) and specs on the upcoming z 15 v2. and also is there gonna be a discount pre sale on them like ive seen before? im a new sundown enthusiast and am interested on some of there equipment. thanks for the reply