Lifted07Duramax

A sundown SA12? DC lvl 3?

Honestly I cant figure out what I would even type in the search field to find something like this

I see all these weird specs for a sub and I dont know what half of them mean. Is there a site that someone can link me to so I can read up on it? Specs Im talking about are below. Fs (Hz): 28.0 Re (Ohms): 6.60 Le (mH): 5.8 Qts: 0.52 Qes: 0.56 Qms: 6.80 Cms (m/N): 0.15 Vas (L): 54.3 Mms (g): 206.0 Mmd (g): 199.4 Rms (kg/s): 5.4 Airload (g): 6.4 No (%): 0.2 SPL (dB - 1W/1M): 85.0 BL (T*M): 21.1 *Xmax10 (mm): 16.2 Sd (cm2): 500 EBP: 50 Krm (mOhms): 3.65

What does he have in the normal subs screw holes? I would need to put something in the holes to keep air from escaping, but putting a ring on the outer side could work

I have the chance to buy a brand new rockford T1 12" for $180 each or should I go with some RE SEx 12" for $160 each? Im running a sundown 1200d v2 to them so its gotta be able to handle the power. I just want a sub thats going to work good in 1cu ft sealed. hard hitting is key

Who?

With leaving 1/2" pole vent clearance I can run a 7" deep sub Im in central california

Oh damn I am not that skilled at doing something with wood. Im more of a mechanical guy. For some reason I always sucked in wood shop lol I am not scrapping this box, Id rather buy subs with a wider mounting ring than scrap the box I just paid for. My subs are old anyways and I have been looking for an upgrade. When looking at sub specs and it says "cut out diameter" is that how much space the sub ring has? Or what measurement am I looking for so Ill know itll be large enough to be screwed in. Again its only 11 1/4"

Its a down fire box and the speaker cut out is like 1/4" too big. Its 11 1/4 and the subs I have right now wont screw in because they screw holes arent furhter out than 11 1/4 for some odd reason. This is a box for 2 12s Its a downfire box so if I were to put a plate on there and do a new cut out Id lose some clearance. Any other suggestions?

A little different situation with our trucks. 1 run of 4 ga is about all you can fit here I checked out your thread and saw your battery is on the passenger side. I have dual batteries and Im using the driver side one, I wonder if it matters which battery I go off of?

Where does that power wire come in at? Also I have a duramax with dual batteries and my power wire is on the driverside running through the firewall as of right now

Ok Ill check out your build thread, I forgot about your thread. Does it show where you are running the power wire and where it comes back in the truck?

How do you guys do it and still get the door sills back down? That wire is so thick I cant get the plastic sills to snap back in. Also for those of you running the amp behind the rear seat how big is the amp? I have a sundown 1200 v2 and Im starting to wonder if its too big to fit back there. I cut out the rubber to fit the amp in but Im wondering if when I put the seat back in if it wont fit. Id like to know before getting it all done.

So when amp makers test their product they dont use just a normal voltage tester? Sorry if thats a retarded question, I dont know alot about the electrical side of most things lol

Do I fit the power and negative cables in and take my voltage meter to the speaker out lets? I cant remember I want to test it with the stock alt wire and ground and see if I can get more power from doing the Big 3. Im sure you will suggest to use it but I want to know how much a difference it made on my truck and post up the results. Mine is a 2500hd duramax so I know I have a higher amp Alt. Plus 2 batteries already

I was told the only time I need to worry about getting a better grade RCA wire is if its for mids and highs. Is that true? Im about to order RCAs for my sundown 1200 and just want to make sure I dont get too cheap of an RCA if I need something better than basic

Hopefully you and M5 read this thread again. I got a PM from M5 and have another question If I should be giving 12s more air space why does it say for example RE and Fi subs specs that 1cu-1.5cu ft is optimal? If I ran my 2 12s in a box similiar to what I have now but only .6cu ft per sub, wouldnt 1cu ft atleast be a world of difference compared to what I was running? Im thinking of getting SA12s or Re SXXs if the motor will fit Since its a downfire I dont think I can do the plate and cut 10" holes without having to raise the sub box from the floor even more. Im limited on space in this truck and no a cut through is not an option

What type of subs are people using with the 2500+ amps? Like 4 12s?

Not sure of the measurements of the box yet UPS should be dropping it off tomorrow. Its sealed 1cu ft of air space per sub. How do I know what the tuning freuency is? Goals, I just want it to hit hard and sound clean. But I can not send this box back and do not want to sell it and take a loss. Im told by M5 that itll sound like shit but I dont understand why it will? I had basically the same box in my 07 crew cab gmc but only .6cu ft per sub and it sounded ok but not great

cant I had them make this one special for me. Its not just their standard box. So I guess thats my mistake for getting the box with 2 12s Now that Im in this hole I dug myself in whats my best bet? Theres got to be some descent 12s thatll fit that motor width spec

I guess I COULD always sand down the inside to make it fit alittle better

The ICON Im wondering if sun downs SA12 will fit that 6.75" motor width or not

what Ill be doing is putting 3/4" worth of washers underneath it LOL Did it in my 07 gmc crew cab and never had an issue. I couldve probably gotten 1 1/4" and still have enough thread to bolt it back down

correct, it is a modified subthump box. It is made just like their typical down fire box but 1" higher The magnet width is because of the section of the box that the sub sits into I was told the SSA 12" is only 6.5" wide can anyone confirm that?

Does anyone know what the motor width of the sundown 12" sub is? If theres a few 12" lines Im looking for one that is 6.75" in width if not less thanks