fearlessgangsta

He could have two. One for the front batt and one for the amp to account for wire resistance. That's what I'm running.

Yep yep. I'm going to need a meter eventually.

HBD

What he said ^ You will notice a difference and it's a cheap route

I ordered 12 gauge my plan after I get my alt and bracket is to upgrade to a 5k so I will upgrade wire then.

Cool I'll order some 12 then

I don't want to do any shaving mainly because I don't know how. Like you said I just want something that fits in the amp.

All I'm concerned about is fit. Along as it fits in the terminals I'm golden

I think you mean what amp? I don't think I've used anything other than 12ga. Whether at 3000 watts or 1000. My friend found a guy that bought the 8 gauge from him. He asked me and i told him sell it because It might not work for me. So I'm thinking of going 10 or 12 gauge. The inputs on my amp look tiny. If I get 12 gauge I could do double runs it I can get them to fit. I'm not worried about the subs fitting just the amp.

Anywhere with women is good.

Which subs?

So your saying plug the metal block into the amp or ? Mybad if I don't get it I'm reading fast as I'm on my way to class. I posted on his page I'm just waiting for a response. Do you remember what they cost?

Those inputs look small now that I look again.

Are you saying stack the 8 gauge at the speaker terminal? Idk if the 2 runs of 8 gauge would fit in one terminal. I'll take a pic of the sundown terminals

I will look into these. Would these be used to go into the amp or ?

Exactly what I'm going to do.

I just got m Z's Now I have a new sub to get

Good Shit sir

Cool, I'll try to remember to get more pics for you because the first time I tried to find it I was completely lost.

Welcome bro and you can make a thread in the fabrication section. The name of this thread isn't really going to get people coming to help with your system. That will get you a bunch more help

x2 on this.lol

? I got the two lengths of wire then after that ?

On the left side of the engine is the engine ground. You can see it running off the battery then it runs through this thing then is grounded to the motor. This off another guys truck off SMD(I know) That thin wire on top of the 0 gauge is the headlight ground that goes somewhere on the firewall. The 0 gauge is covering the other wire that is a little thicker then the headlight cable. The thicker wire that you can't see will be the stock engine ground On now if you find this thing(it should be to the right of the battery just look and you should find it. If you do it currently has to grounds running through it one wire will be thicker then the other. The thicker wire will be the ground from the battery going to the engine block and you would be able to see it. The skinner wire will be the ground for the headlights. Basically the ground current is measured by the clamp and it tells the electrical system what to do. So what you is just run 0 gauge through the clamp from the negative of the batt and ground it to the engine block with the one that is already there. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow and type a description with pics.

Just for my bc2000 I'm doing big 3 and remember to ground through the electronic ground clamp to help the alt see the draw. I'm ordering a xs3400 as a secondary batt. I'm doing one run of positive and negative in 0 gauge to back where the amp is from the 3400. Now when I'm completely finished with that. I'm saving up for a dual bracket and mike singer alt then running my system completely separate from my stock charging system. Then I will be done with my electrical.

Even if you get a HO alt it will still do the floating voltage thing when your driving. The only way I know to stop that is with a MLA module, and then you have to splice into the PCM control to get it to constantly charge at 14.9 That's why you see so many people running dual and triple brackets on these new model trucks.