ShagggDiesel

Sorry for being a thread whore tonight guys but I got a chance to really sit down on my laptop and do stuff and not work through my phone. ANYWAY Question: Can there be a certain tuning for a sealed box depending on size? IE: If you have a 1^3ft box sealed, and a 2^3ft box sealed, would the frequency response be the same with both boxes with the same driver? I've always wondered if there was a way to get a sealed box to produce lower frequencies with a good amount of output without having to port. Pretty much every sealed box I've heard peaks around 45-60hz and doesn't hit lows (35hz and lower) well at all. I didn't know if there was some kind of formula or concept that would alter the response in a sealed box. I know that it's pretty much flat, but is it like that in ALL cases? Just an idea I've been pondering on.. People ask me why their subs don't hit "low notes" good, and I reply with "you have a sealed box, a low tuned ported box would perform better." But then they usually ask why, and I'm stuck with a crooked face

Thanks man! I will def. be using lower frequencies in my future bass songs. I'll probably even make a few SQ songs to work with too with Acoustic guitar/piano/drums and vocals etc. I'm using a Neumann TLM 103 for my main instrument vocal/instrument mic right now, and it sounds NICE

well here's the deal. I've been into music production and recording engineering for a few years now. I've just recently got the idea to incorporate these skills into my car audio hobby. I'm posting a song below which I produced myself that peaks around 43-48 hz. I know it's not quite as low as most of you like to pound to, but hey it's my first attempt at making one of these. I'd like to get some feedback from you guys as to what you think I should do as far as going about making these tracks. I'd love to continue making them for the fellow members to use in their demo's/videos. If you guys could check out the song, download it and try it out and leave some feedback and/or videos, I'd GREATLY appreciate it. I really wanna get into this and incorporating my music skills with this field of interest. Thanks guys!! Here's the link. EDIT: CDP stands for Cellar Door Productions, my little production company. And yes, those are my vocals.

very good man.

Ok I've got audacity downloaded, where do I go about from there to find what I'm looking for? Obviously have the song imported to the session.. but then what?

Can I do a song/music video?

Alright well to start, I'm an experienced music producer/recording engineer. I'm starting to incorporate my music into my car audio hobby. I've been making a few bass tracks to test out and demo with in my car. My question: What's a good program to use to find peak frequencies in a song? I'm going to start finding this out in my bass songs and posting them up here on the forum for people to use and test out. Also, I'd like some feedback, and maybe videos of people using them.

If you really want to be safe, you could run 0 gauge from the front battery to the back, and use a distrubution block with a 4g output to run to the amp for a short distance, then do the same with the ground from the amp. Or, if anything, 0 to 4g reducers

Do you have all the crossovers and whatnot tuned right? Just turning the gain knob won't always make it louder. Also, the gain isn't a volume knob. Don't use it as one. You will blow something.

That 1200d may be a little much for IB. It doesn't take much for IB subs to reach their limits. Most IB setups I've seen have been no more than 500-750 watts

Looks like a BL series to me

Found my solution. My dude "phi" on here is hooking me up with a fresh reconed BTL for a nice price and I'm going to be picking it up. He may also be building my enclosure as well and save me a S-Load on both deals Woohoo!

Neither of them look like anything I would get. They automatically turn me off because of the shitty 2$ speaker terminals. It would also help to decide though if they told you what frequency the boxes were tuned to.. It's hard to tell without any information. If I had to choose between those, I'd go with the first one though, just because the port is incredibly too small on the 2nd one.

Well the SSD would be fully loaded with Bp power and flatwind coil and whatnot so power handling is almost even.

I am getting the BTL. Just not at this time. I'm on a slight budget so this is my choice for now. I'll slowly upgrade and get a BTL when the time comes.

My next setup is going to consist of a single 12" driver in a Khaotik ported enclosure. My question: As far as output goes, not SQ by any means, which is better suited for my situation? A Fi SSD 12" or an SSA ICON 12"? The sub will be seeing around 1500 watts, probably not the full 1500 but that's about RMS on the amp. I'm looking for strictly output. I have all electrical necessary for the setup. It's just that after shipping, these 2 subs are about the exact same price, and same RMS rating. Just needing input, on the output of them lol. Thanks ahead, -Shag

Only thing I could think of that would not work right, is since the 2nd battery isn't directly in-line with the first one, the altenator wouldn't be charging the 2nd battery as much that way. It seems to me that Most of the power would be drained from the front battery, and the amp would just be drawing dry power from the 2nd battery. The 2nd battery is seeing very little, if any charge from up front. Yes it would help, but it could quickly drain the 2nd battery.. Kind of like running your system for a long period without the car being on. I've never seen a car done this way so I don't have a definite answer, but that's what it looks like to me.

Thanks for all the input guys. But I got to thinking because I wasn't 100% sure, and I see that the Remote knob that came with the amp is a Bass BOOST knob as opposed to just a level control. What sort of trouble am I looking into now? I didn't think it was that bad because I listened to the system without the remote knob, and it sounded the same as it did with the remote hooked up and turned full tilt. I haven't noticed any distortion that you would hear from an overdriven bass boost.. It seems to me that it's just acting as a volume control, as the RCA one is. If this helps any, the amp model is a Lanzar MAXP1200d Monoblock.

Gotcha now.. So you don't think I should eliminate either of the knobs? I don't really see a purpose for both being there, other than the fact if I switch out amps and one doesn't have remote control, I always have the RCA one for backup. More or less a lazy bypass of removal and installation.

I'm not understanding what you're saying here.. they had one hooked to the amp, and one hooked to the sub? How do you hook a bass knob up to a sub? :/

Here's the deal, in my previous few installs, I had been using a simple 12$ RCA bass control knob. You run RCA's from the HU to the knob, then from the knob back to the amplifier controlling the input level from the head unit to the amp. Simple. Well I recently got a new amp, which came with a Remote bass control knob. I hooked this knob up to the amp via the telephone jack looking remote cable, while still running my RCA's through the original knob. I've been keeping the RCA knob at 100% and using the remote to control the levels.. My question is, is this a bad idea for any reason at all? Perhaps output voltage from the RCA's or something of that nature? Also, what are the pro's and con's of using a RCA knob and a Remote knob if I were to use just one of them? What should I do in this situation? Thanks in advance..

I got one of those off eBay a while back.. I just wire it to my ignition cable to the HU and ground it the same way. It's worked fine for a year

Without personally checking it all out, there's not a lot of advice I could give myself that you haven't already done. My best advice would be to install what you have, play with it a while and listen for gaps. Since this SQ system is for YOU, YOU'RE the only person that can really tell us what's missing. Now if you install it and tell us that, we could go from there as to help with what you need to fill those gaps.

just tested each. Only one has voltage running through it. CAW CAW! Bad RCA

Not many people recommend the brand, but I bought a Lanzar MAXP1200 D-Class I think is what it's called.. It's a 1 ohm stable monoblock amp with a max output of 1800 watts at 1 ohm. (Well that's what it's rated at). Personally, I loved it for the setup I had (4 4ohm SVC 12" drivers wired in paralell to 1 ohm in a sealed enclosure). It put out more than my Memphis 16-st100d for sure. The best part, it was $87 plus free shipping from ebay. I've yet to have a problem from it. ** I just found this amp on amazon for $89 + free shipping. Check it out