Dammed

Started with the body filling: I forgot to take a picture or two, but I smoothed the body filling out before I left it to dry. It looked a lot more even. I'm going to do it once more to fill the small cracks, and then it should be good for painting.

Thanks mate. I bought the HU set up used, but the player looks like it's new, no scratches anywhere on the HU. And I even got it for a very nice price.

Started on my fiberglass mold around the cd player: Taped up the console: Done with the fiberglass, so now it's speed drying. So I started up my Defa fan. Think I laid about 7-8 layers, should be more then enough: Now it's dried up, I removed some of the tape before I remembered to take som pictures: And then my new part is out of the console: Now I left the part to fully cure, before I start cutting holes for the cd player and my Stinger Volt meters and applying the body filler, I'll smooth out the edges on top and bottom and make the front a little bit flatter. I had to use the console in my car right a way, but it shouldn't twist while curing, it was pretty dry. I think the result was ok, could have been better, but I'm satisfied, since I only used tape and since it's my first part from scratch.

Nice ride man. I love the GN. I must have one when I graduate.

My dream car: Cizeta Moroder V16T Bugatti EB110: Detomaso Pantera: Venturi 400 GT Maserati MC12

Bought a new cd player, a Pioneer RS-D7RII, DEQ-P90 and RS-P50. I'll be using the DEQ-P90.

Started to make the sides: Loaded all the sides and some rests, and the coilovers: I placed all the sides to take a look at what I'm actually building: The place beneath the enclosure (the boxes are models of my batteries): Bought some new tools: And I started up a router for the first time: The hole was round at least: ^^ Not perfect, this is the start and end, the rest was nice and round: I used a file to make the start/end nice and round. With some fabric it will not be noticeable: Looks kinda massive in the car... Looks good with the sub in it's place: Got the windows tinted: New license plate: The carpark at home:

Thanks guys. I have taken a long break from the build because of the exams. But tomorrow I'll continue with the build. Have a update for you all though: 22.05.10 I started to fill the gap between the fiberglass mold and my floor with some fiberglass. I used a method I learned from a forum buddy until I didn't have anymore resin for fiberglass. (Let the fiberglass soak in the resin before you put it on, much more messy but a lot easier to mold the fiberglass into place.) So I looked around at the schools workshop, and I found a big 20liters can with resin. The title said resin, and from my watching of hot rods on discovery channel I knew resin was something we call polyester which is used for fiberglass. So I smelled it, looked at the color and it looked good. So I mixed it up with my hardener and started working with. Feeling pretty good since I would be done tonight. Paint workshop at my school: Resin I thought was Polyester: The day after I was pretty busy with my colorful words that would have made a old fisherman blush. So I didn't take any pictures. Resin is a apparently a English word used for many different types of sh***, this turned out to be Epoxy... So it didn't dry pretty good. So I started taking of the fiberglass soaked in epoxy and then I rubbed the surface with acetone, to clean away the epoxy while many colorful words on English, Bosnian and Norwegian bounced off the walls. They say burned children learns best, and this kid here has learned his lesson. Never EVER use something you're not 110% sure what is. I have never had to clean something that's so hard to get rid off. But after that wonderful experience, I went to Biltema (cheap place to get your hardware, something like Home Depot) to buy some correct Resin and I finished the sides: After it was cured I went to the Concrete test lab to see if it's airtight: Hmm, apparently it isn't... The mold I got from a friend let water out like a bloody sieve. So I let it dry and then I laid two layers of fiberglass and a lot of resin to seal the bottom. That did the trick and now it's airtight like a can of beans. Some pictures of how it looks inn the car: And here will a Carputer be placed to the autumn: Then some pictures of the Monster that will power my babies: Shopping trip for a barbecue party, all the essentials... The biggest contender on the party: About a week ago I bought my batteries. I went for Stinger batteries, got them for the same price as Odyssey, so why not. I bought one SPP1200 and two SP2150 and I connected them to my Ctek XS25000 battery charger and have had them on maintenance charging for about a week now. A picture of them when I first got them:

It's going to moan my name in the dark... Update: 03 March 2010 The front baffle drawed in scale: New CD player: Annen farge: 11 March 2010 Disassembling the suspension: 12.05.10 The only sticker that will be on the car: 13 March 2010 I started with the first walls today, it's actually starting to look like a enclosure! Carpenter skills : 14 March 2010 Sandblasting:

thanks for the comments. Some more pictures for you all:

Thanks guys. Yeah the Silvia is sweet, the car doesn't just look good, but it runs pretty good as well, on 0.6 bar it's producing 400-something on the wheels. It's a Nismo built Silvia. I'm from Sarpsborg in Norway.

21. April 2010: Started making the floors (got to love to have professional tools at your disposable for free ): 23. April 2010: Motorshow at Fredrikstad started today. Here I met a very nice man that used to own the same car as I do, and through some talking he mentioned that I can have a fiberglass enclosure for free, since it's only taking up space in his garage. He had two Focal 13" subwoofer in it, I'll remove the front baffle and use the fiberglass mold in the bottom so that I can utilize the space from the wheel well: The polish job I did on the show: The stand vi had on the show (We won the best stand award ):

10. March 2010 What's already done: Wires are pulled through the car ( 2 x 0 gauge cables, and 3 pairs of RCA's, all from Kicker) The car is partially deadened with Dynamat Extreme Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 is installed in the front. (The passive Xover was moved into the car a couple days later) What's bought: Clarion DXZ788RUSB CD player Soundstream REF4.920 (4x145W rms @ 4 ohm) Hifonics XX Colossus II (3200W rms @ 2 ohm) Two Fi Q 18" D2 (1000W rms) 180A Iraggi alternator with lifetime warranty Two Stinger Voltage meters, one to measure the Voltage at the front battery and the other to measure to battery bank at the back Hushmat deadening, to be used in the trunck and roof. Kicker Speaker wires Kicker 50mm2 power wires Tsunami 180A Circuit Breakers Tsunami Battery terminals Stinger Battery isolator Bag with Stinger 50mm2 ring terminals Various Stinger wire adapters, 50mm2 --> 21mm2 og 21mm2 --> 8mm2 Ctek XS 25000, 25A smart battery charger The Fi Q Subwoofers: The insides of the Colossus II: Subwoofers that love big boxes: What's left to buy: NSB 75 and two NSB 125 batteries. The a explaination on how you get two 18" in a vented enclosure in a small Celica... Well, I'm going to take out the rear seats and the enclosure is going to build so that the subs will be firing towards the front right behind the rear seats. The port will also be firing in the same direction, so that I get a nice breeze on warm summer days. The enclosure will be about 450-550liters which is about 16-20cu.ft. There will be a plexi glass plate between the enclosure and the roof so that I will not be obstructing the view through the back window. The amplifiers will be placed on top of the enclosure. I'll also make two fiberglass covers that will go on the front baffle and the roof of the enclosure, they will hide cables and cover any small openings on the sides between the enclosure and the car, those will be covered in grey/black vinyl to match the interior of the car. Clarion cd player will be running the fronts actively with the Soundstream amp. And the Ctek charger will be installed in the car, but it will be easy accessible so that I can take it out of the car if I need to charge something else. That's the plan, now we're waiting on the weather gods to turn up the heat. 13. April 2010 Then the work starts: Deadened the trunk today, beautiful weather today, +13C and no clouds. The CD player I'm using now, a real beauty: The 1" MDF plates that's bought: The workshop and all the tools at school that I'll be using: got to have some music while you work: The trunk before: All the cables waiting patiently to be used: The room at my disposal: My baby: Got to eat to, dinner for my sister and me: The result: Lot's of deadening got used: The car stereo waiting to be used: 18. April 2010: Deadened the roof today: 19. April 2010: Made a cardboard model of the enclosure, using a Kinetik HC1800 as a dummy battery:

Since when?? Last couple of years at least. I have read on a couple of forums that they do break down much quicker then Odyssey, XS Power and other brands. Has something to do with the batteries being made of recycled lead. They are still good batteries for the money, but if your budget is large enough for other brands like XS power, Odyssey, Stinger etc then I would advice to buy those brands instead. Looks like I'll be going for two NSB 125 in the back and a NSB75 under the hood. Thanks for the replies.

I'll call and check with them. Thanks for the phone numers. Deka's are out of the question, they have a low life expectancy.

They are all within the same price range, $50+/-. Audiolife thanks for the tip, and I have thought of that already. The car will be charged with a Ctek XS 25000 (25A) every night, this is a smart AGM charger. And I reckon that I will not be running at full power all the time, so I should be fine with just a 250A alternator. Even if my system draws about 400A at full volume. This is also a reason I'm watching the Ah rating. But One thing I found rather strange, is that the 1700 and HC2400 is about the same size and weight, but the 1700 has allmost half the Ah rating of the HC2400. Should one assume that perhaps the HC2400 doesn't have that much Ah? CrazyKenKid, thanks for the reply. Odyssey 2150 is above my price range. I have thought about the NSB's as well, but I can't find a shop with good prices on them, any tips? (US shops) Ok right now I would be going for two NSB 90 or 125 if I find a shop that sells them at a good price, otherwise I'm going for the XS power batteries.

yes another one of those threads... I know which batteries are better then others. But when you look at what you get for a certain amount of money, then it gets hard to choose. This is for a comp/daily setup, not only burps. I have: Hifonics Colossus II (3000W rms), SS Ref4.920 (600W rms), Two Fi Q 18" and a HO alternator from Iraggi rated at 250A. These batteries will be in the back. 2 x Kinetik KR3112, same as HC2400 just the racing line (the red batteries). 2 x XS power D3400 2 x Odyssey PC1700 2 x Xstatic Batcap 2000 The battery upfront will also be replaced by a new battery from the same producer as the batteries I choose to have in the back. The reason for my doubt, is that with the Kinetik batteries I get a whopping 260Ah, and even if it's not important for the DB's, it's still nice to have a nice reserve, compared to Xstatics which I get only 100Ah... What would you go for and why?

Cablguy184: I did think about isobaric, but since I have enough room for a standard vented enclosure I went with that. This would be my second enclosure build, and I don't want to take more water over my head then I already have. But thanks for the tip. kirill007: If he wanted to help me he would explained it like you did, it would have taken a second more. I don't take advices without a explanation to why one should follow the advice. How do you plan ahead on what port to make? I mean how do you add the gains from the car? And wouldn't the gains and what frequencies the gains are at vary from car to car?

becuase that's no fun. But on a serious note, the rear seats never gets used. If my friends want to go somewhere we allways take a friends Audi A6, so my rear seats have maybe been used 3 times the previous year. There will be a build thread, I have purchased four boards of 1" thick MDF, and I have deadened the car, the build will probably start during the next week. And yes it will be a variable port going from 20-40hz.

Yeah I know the tuning will be lower if the length of the port increases and vice versa. Ok, thanks for the info mate. I will be making the port as it is pictured with about 8" space. I believe it would be a good way to reduce air turbulence. Or should I build it differently?

The title says it all. How much space should I have between my port and rear wall? My port will have a 9,5" x 20.5" surface area, the enclosure is 20 cu.ft., I will be using two Fi Q 18" powered by a Hifonics XX Colossus II amplifier that will deliver about 3000W rms. The reason I ask is that I don't have enough room for the tuning I want, so I want to make it as close to the intended tuning as possible. I was thinking that 8" will be enough if I make the end flared and the wall "pointy" to reduce turbulence. Would this be enough? Picture of how I was thinking about making the enclosure:

We did a dual layer of silicone and then liquid nails. I suggest just using the silicone. The liquid nails dosent do anything worthwhile. Ok, thanks mate. We to ended on silicone, since it's cheap, flexible and easy to apply. But yeah, pictures and vids. Man can't wait, this must be sick.

sounds good, can't wait for the videos. Can you tell me, what did you use on the angle iron and joints to seal the enclosure? I was debating today with a guy on what to use, many suggestions came up, silicone, tech7, normal wood glue, glass fiber, etc etc.

mythbusters tested this, it was busted. MythBusters Episode 58: Shattering Subwoofer Yeah I know you guys worked only on the weekends, so the days/hours spent building is probably good.

I loved to hear the house shaking, hehe nice one.