cobra93

I've been looking to see which battery I can fit under my hood, I think the d6500 is doable. I'd hate to spend $300.00 and find out I still have the same problem.

I don't believe I have the wiring wrong, but I'll check again tomorrow. I'm sure i need a better battery than the one I have. I played a 50 hertz tone, adjusted the gain to ~45 volts. I then set the sub/infrasonic to 32 volts playing a 30 hertz tone, then played a 68 hertz tone and set the voltage to 32 volts again. At this point the subs barely moved with the bass mechanic cd playing "music". Knowing that this is (more or less a guideline, and music is dynamic) I put in a steely dan cd that I'm familiar with ang adjusted the gain (up) from there. The thing that gets me is that it's not low voltage that seems to be the problem. A test tone will make the voltage gauge drop allot, but the amp keeps playing. I don't want to hurt the amp with low voltage supply, so now I'm bassless. Maybe it's the static ohm load, I'll check tomorrow, but I don't know. I ran a small jumper from + to - on one coil of each speaker and connected the other coil to wires to 2 bolts mounted through the box, then to the amp. Kind hard to screw up, but I'll double check and post the final dc resistance to the amp. Thanks to all who have responded.

I have sort out the amp/electrical problem first.

Than you very much ! :drink40:

I finally got my saz2000d and 4 - sa-8's installed today. You can see my build log on this forum if you like. This is in a 2000 ford ranger. I've installed a db electrical 200 amp alt. I've run a 1/0 cable from the alternator to the battery. I was planning on replacing the battery in the truck soon, when it went bad I bought the cheapo 500 cca for $35.00 about a year ago. I have 4 - runs of 1/0 flex cable from the battery to the rear of the truck. 2 of those runs (pos./neg.) are for the 2000d. The 4 sa8's are ( coils in series ) woofers parallel to amp. 1 ohm. 3.2 c.f. (net) enclosure tuned to 32 hertz. My problem is the amp goes into protection when there's a quick/short bass note (music) not when a long note (bass mechanic or etc.). I didn't get a voltage reading at the amp, but I know it's dropping low. I also have a jl 300/2 running my front speakers, which should shut down at 10-10.5 volts. So I don't believe it's getting that low. I have to fix one of the leads on my volt meter tomorrow so I can check the voltage at the amp and I'll post back. When listening to music the amp will shut down and the bass isn't even loud yet, my eclipse 88120 dvc off a jl 500/1 is way louder than the sa8/2000d. When I put in bass mechanic the volt gauge drops but the sub's/amp continues to play. I don't under stand this.

I got an early start today. I made some panels to replace the rear seats, the cover panel from the frame to the floor, fans installed in the cover panel, amp mounted, subs and box installed and the truck put back together. I'm having issues with the 2000d, I'll post a thread in the sundown forum. The left/right rear seat panels. The cover panel. The cover panel with fans. The cover panel in place. I'm ordering some fan grills, just not sure which one's yet. The box with speaker cutouts. The box installed. The sa8's sound pretty damn good, but I'm having issues with the amp. I assume it's not enough battery, but we'll see what I can find out.

Thanks bro, no I guess you didn't miss the pics, did you. :drink40:

You really just have to look around man. There are tons of choices for pro sound. Enough to give you a head ache looking at them. The biggest problem I had choosing is finding a driver that could play below 100hz and still get loud too. Some brands I would look at are B&C, Eminence, Faitalpro, and on the high end $$ Beyma and 18sound. What I suggest and what I personally did was start on the lower end like Eminence or Selenium and see if pro drivers are even direction you want to go. You can get a pair of Selenium 6W4P 6" mids and a pair of Selenium ST200 tweeters for like $100 total on parts express. Wont be the best obviously but will give you a good idea of what you are messing with and would still sound pretty good too. Lots of people run them and like them so you can always sell them and get some of the money back to as they are pretty popular on other forums. Thanks Sir Lancelot!! I'd just hate to buy something crap and get a bad perspective of pro audio. Last night I ran across some videos of the 6W4P selenium's as well as some hertz 6 1/2", I don't remember there name. The 6W4P's are cheap enough to try with a small investment, kind of funny that you mentioned them. I may give them a try to get an idea what pro audio is all about. B.T.W. you just missed the pics of the recovered box, bad timing, or I'm too slow at typing.

I didn't get started until after 12:00 today, but it was a pretty good day. It may not look like I got allot done, but the SUNDOWN logo took forever to cut out. I'm happy I decided to redo the suede. It's not perfect, but it turned out not to shabby in my opinion. I pulled the primed frame out, painted it (2 coats metallic charcoal) and cleared it (3 coats). It turned out pretty good for a rattle can. I went to work and got some of my spring clamps, the wind was not going bite me twice while wrapping the box. Here's the frame. I still need a way to mount a cover panel to it, I'll figure something out. A closeup in the sun. Today is my brothers birthday, we're celebrating it tomorrow at our moms. I think I'll let the adhesive cure until Saturday before I cut the woofer holes and port out. I am no tailor, but I needed an easy way to cover the ends of the box. I picked up some stainless screws and finishing washers to do the ends. The end of the box. I used the old "eyecrometer" (it's in need a caibration by the looks of this pic) on the spacing/line of the screws so don't rip into me too much. The SUNDOWN logo without the holes cut out. I should have more pics on Saturday.

Thank you!

Zip ties, No problem. Wish I'd come up with it.

Thanks Sir Lance, I'll keep forging ahead. I should have the subs working this weekend. Your build is coming along nicely. I'd love to hear it! I'm having a hard time finding good resources on pro audio drivers, reviews. If you have any links/forums, I love to know about them. After I got the box built I think everyone lost interest in this build, oh well there loss. Thanks for checking back on my progress. I foresee panels flapping in the near future This will be my first taste of sundown sub's, I can't wait. Then it's on to the front stage, Game On!!

If you're looking for a cheap easy solution to stop some of the roof flex, brace it. You already have a roll cage that spans the width of your jeep, use it. I don't know how often you remove the roof. If it's not often, cut some wood, wrap it in some material that looks like the roll bar padding and hose clamp it to the roll bar with some hose clamps or whatever you can find that you think would work well. If you force the roof up 1/4" or so in the middle (over a 12" span/width) it shouldn't damage the roof, but it may stop some of the flexing.

I started today with the amp rack. The feet are welded off, and the angle iron to hold the amps is welded off. I put the box in to get a better overall picture. I will be recovering the box as I'm not happy with the way the suede turned out. I have plenty of room for the amps under the box. The amps (saz-125.2, saz-2000d) under the box. Without the box. I figured the 125.2 is going to get hot, not sure about the 2000d. So I went inside to grab some 120mm fans. I'll mount them to the back of the cover panel that goes from the frame to the floor. I will use at least 4, maybe more. I've yanked the interior out of the truck 3 days in a row now, so I thought I'd run my new rca's while I could. I an planing to put a pioneer dex-p99rs in the truck and go active sometime soon so 4 runs of rca's and I don't have to screw around with this again. I made some cheap wire separators to keep the rca's flat under the carpet. This also works great for keeping spark plug wires separate, no more misfires. I may go golfing tomorrow, not sure. I also have the frame in primer and will paint it tomorrow. I may start recovering the box as well.

Pretending. If I only thought of that before. I'd be a rich man and have the loudest, best sound vehicle on the planet. Is it ok if I sue you Sir-Lancelot? Do you know how much money you'd have saved me if you'd have told me this a long time ago!!!!!!! :roflmao: :roflmao: FI AUDIO baby > If you don't understand the answers/links that cheese20323 gave you, you shouldn't be strapping amps. You've got allot more "figuring" to do!! P.S. Is your "Flux Capacitor" wired strait polarity or reverse polarity. You might want to check it with a "Scatefroopinipulator", just make sure it's fully charged when you do.

Anytime bro. I am just down the road from you in Florence. Thanks man!! I appreciate that. Pro audio drivers are different from car components for sure. The benefit is they are so damn sensitive and get stupid loud. The vocals are very clear and the B&C have some nice midbass too. I think the B&C mids could be an excellent SQ driver if mated up with a nice set of horns. Honestly I just wanted something that would get loud and still sound good at low volume too. So far so good. Really just buy a set and try them. You don't have to spend a whole bunch just to see if you like the sound. I bought some Selenium to test and decided it was something that would work for my goals and then went with the B&C. I will probably put the Selenium up for sale on the low here one day. It was not flannel backed I don't believe tho it did have a backing. It was kinda stretchy but almost too think to pull hard on or it would deform and have pull marks. I would guess it is marine vinyl or it at least looks like boat seats would. I did find some that was very stretchy but could not find a color I liked. Guess like everything else trial and error until you find something that works best. My front stage is still in the air, I'm working on the subs/amp rack at the moment. I'll have to do some reading about pro audio drivers. If the vinyl is marine vinyl it will have a thick white grid/mesh on the back, it only "likes" to stretch in one direction. Flanel backed has batting on the back and will stretch in any direction easier, but it stretches so well it gets pretty thin when conforming to a panel like yours. Your panels turned out great! Keep it up!

Awesome build. I've been watching for a while now. That Yokon looks like it's got an attitude, nice ride. I've always wondered what proaudio drivers sound like compared to components. I may have to try some out and see for myself. Keep up the great work. Is the vinyl you're using flanel backed or marine vinyl? I ask because the flanel backed is much easier to stretch.

How bad did you go off your line? You really need to post a pic so we can understand what you did and loose the attitude. Your question could not be more vague if you tried, wait don't try. I'll take as tab in the dark and tell you to cut another strip of MDF 1" wide and glue it into place on the inside of the box after the box is built to seal it up. Do not just fill it with silicone and call it a day.

Very nice so far! I envy your woodworking skills.

Well, I'm a steel fabricator not a carpenter. I wish I was both. Steel is easy, If you screw up you can weld it back together.

I now understand why he has his own thread. I will sticky this so when I need a good laugh I'll know where to go. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Yesterday I got the alternator installed and the rest of the wiring under the hood done. It was getting cold, 45-50 degrees, to make matters worse after 12:00 it would sprinkle for 15 minutes then stop, then start, then stop. I kept putting things back in the garage, then taking them out again. I'd had enough around 4:30. The alternator installed, I know , big whoop. It's a massive 200 amp DB Electrical on a 4 cylinder. GOT CORROSION???????? These are the stock 100,000 plus miles battery terminals. These are the new terminals with all the connections made. It's getting crowded in here. The monster of a battery will be upgraded soon. The 2 fuse blocks mounted and wires run. The voltage at idle. The stock was at 14.45 idle and dropped to 12.89 volts at idle with a 50 hertz tone and 1 jl 500/1 at full tilt. Today was warmer and no rain. I got started on the frame to secure the enclosure and will add angle iron to secure some amps under the enclosure. Time to get the welder out. It does quite well for a 110 volt welder. When trying to remove the rear seats I snapped the heads of 2 bolts. 100,000 plus miles of rust and crap on the threads. I got the metabo with wire wheel and some penetrating oil out to remove the rest of the bolts. Then I got the drill and tap set out to repair the snapped bolts because I'm using the existing holes to mount the frame to the floor. The frame in the truck. The existing amps will have to be relocated (or flipped upside down) so I can adjust the crossovers and gains. The amps are mounted on an aluminum frame behind the plastic panel. I need more angle iron to finish the frame. I make it tomorrow at work. I hope to have the box done and installed by this weekend, we'll see.

I got a late start today and my camera was pissing me off. It doesn't want to work unless the batteries are new, so I didn't take allot of pics. I made an aluminum mounting bracket for my fuse blocks. Drilled some holes and mounted them. I got 4-1/0 runs down the underside of the truck, clamped well out of the way of anything hitting or catching them. Drilled 4 - 1" holes to bring them into the rear of the truck, mounted the strain reliefs and pulled the wire into the cab. The wires are 1" away from the metal in this pic, it's just the angle that makes it look like there touching. Inside of the truck. These are water tight strain reliefs. Don't mind the other wires in this pics, they will all be removed. I over guesstimated how much cable I'd need. I could run all 4 of these back to a trailer and power a stereo in it if I needed to. Better to have too much than too little and too much is just about right. I hope to get the rest of the electrical done tomorrow and start welding the frame for the 2000d/ enclosure.

I got a late start today. I didn't get all the electrical finished, oh well. My camera was pissing me off, it doesn't work unless the batteries are brand new, so I don't have allot of pics today. I made up an aluminum mounting bracket for the 2 fuse blocks. Drilled some holes and got them mounted.

Keep this in the back of your mind, it's something I've read over and over. A carpc is something that can take allot of time to get right. You could spend weeks/months to get correct, this is what turned me off of the idea of a carputer (and I don't mean setting crossovers and such). They take up allot of space, need proper cooling and don't turn on like a car stereo does. I looked into a carputer and spent allot of time reading about it. Then decided the pioneer dex-p99rs was a valid alternative and am waiting for the price to drop somewhat. Do some reading on the website I listed above before you chose this route.