Third Eye Vision

The SAE-1000D = SAZ-1000D same board, different heatsink. SAE-1000D/SAZ-1000D are .5 ohm stable and will run up to 18VDC system. The SAE-1200D is 15VDC or so maximum and is NOT .5 ohm stable. Basically the SAE-1200D is a powerful amp for budget stuff, but it's not built like a tank like the SAE-1000D or SAZ-1000D. The SAE-1200D is made in China vs the SAE/SAZ-1000D is made in Korea and comes off the same exact assembly line as all the other SAZ series amplifiers and is built to those standards. I would only recommend the SAE-1200Dv1 if you are really on a budget, it's powerful but not the most rugged amplifier, the SAE-1200Dv2 would be a wiser choice, but it costs more, it has the same parts inside, so same power output, but a few more capacitors and a double sided circuit board which helps the amp last longer and hold up to extreme vibration without breaking solder joints etc like could happen in the SAE-1200Dv1 with it's single sided circuit board. this is what i got from db-r when i asked about the difference between the sae1200dv1 vs the sae1000d

i live in an apartment so i have no garage, saws, clamps or anything like that. so when i say going ported i mean purchasing a ported box from one of the builders on here. and they look to be about 200 bucks before shipping. maybe in the future id look into building my own ported box but for now im just gonna leave it to one of the experienced builders on here. prefab sealed boxes are like 30 bucks so i figured that would be less expensive than buying wood and tools, and that will hold me over til i got cash for ported. the other thing is ive only ran sealed boxes, never heard a ported in person, so just running this in a sealed box will sound better than my last setup.

thats a good point i forgot to subtract the sub volume. i got a shitload of polyfill, i think about 2 pounds of it in my box right now for my 12s so i will use that stuff.

i checked out sa's page and it said it should be fine in 2-2.5 sealed box, one box I was looking at is 2.2 unless this calculator is wrong. Sonic Sub Boxes 1H15-2.0 (1h1520) - 15" Sealed Subwoofer Enclosures - Sonic Electronix , the site lists 2.0, but I punched in the specs on Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator under the angled woofer enclosures ans came up with 2.2

Thanks for the replies, as far as clipping I was under the impression that the sundown amps were underrated. So I figured I would be in the clear as long as I didn't exceed their recommendations, right now I have the 4 ohm load at 34-35 on the DMM. How are you liking your Z15 jaycee? I don't got the cash for a ported box yet so I'm just gonna run it in a prefab sealed. I just bought the sundown amp last month and I sent out the M.O. on the Z15's this morning so it will be a bit before I can get the ported enclosure.

I'm picking up a pair of Z15's off a guy on the forums here. Due to trunk space and lack of a HO Alt I'm only going to be running one of them and either selling the other or keeping it as a spare. Since they're dvc4 I can only run it at 2 ohms on the amp, and the product manual states that the amp does 600w at 2 ohms. Will there be a large downgrade in performance running them this low? Right now I'm running 2 shitty 12s at a 4 ohm load, and since the manual states that it does 300 @ 4ohm, I dmm'd it at 300. I'm hoping that the z15 on twice the power will blow the 12's out of the water. But by giving the sub just over half its RMS, am I severely limiting it's potential? Obviously it was made to handle 1000w, but do I have to push that number to get good performance from it? Probably a "noob" question for most of you guys, just don't want to be disappointed and you all seem to have worked with various subwoofer/amplifier setups.

yeah theres a few things id try before a hammer and chisel, i could see that doin some damage. i saw a guy do it with a drill and an abrasive pad like lithium suggested

look into a kenwood excelon unit if youre looking for something similar and pretty cheap. i picked up the x693 for under 200 and i like it. it has a 7 band eq, t/a, but doesnt have the ability for a 3 way setup as it only has LP and HP filters. it lets you choose frequencies in 10hz increments, and anywhere between 6-24db rolloff. my last clarion deck only let me choose 50, 80, and around 100 and did not let me choose the rolloff.

yeah mine always break off

they list sealed enclosures for the regular subs like ssd's and q's, but the people that buy bl's and btl's are using them for large amounts of bass and they get that thru ported enclosures. im sure you can still use a sealed, but you wont get the perfomance youd expect from such an expensive woofer.

nice setup dude, do you measure the ohm load to the amp with a dmm? and if so what do i gotta put it on to do that. i always just thought that the number would be even like .5, 1, 2, 4 and so on.

lol was this on here didnt see it lmao i saw it on some random forum awhile ago and started bustin up laughin after i realized it wasnt a still picture

lol this one always makes me laugh

i have to agree, that chick gettin socked was awesome. lol the look on the dudes face while he turned to hit her was classic

sweet lucifer, just got my delivery from dB-r. after i get a new sub it will be like sex in my ears.

My misunderstanding was you not sharing details, I am definitely familiar with overall Q and exactly why I asked. It sounded to me like you read a description and used that as your issue instead of sharing what was wrong with your system. I wanted clarification, otherwise you could be chasing a pipe dream that isn't yours. As for the bass you are looking for and why it was confusing, I roll my subs off by 50Hz, anything above to me is for the front stage. Not so unusual and therefore pretty hard to guess it was the midbass frequencies that you wanted your sub to play better, although you can see that was already offered as an option as well. If you don't mind how your subs sound now in the lower frequencies, I would still say that is definitely the answer. Beef up the fronts, lower your crossover and then decide if you need more below where your fronts can't play. m5, i was talkin about nirvalica, you understood me just fine.

Would I have to hack up my car to get those in? I have zero fab skills and just as much tools, my door speakers right now are 6x8s. Amazon.com: Scosche SA68 Convertible 6x8-Inch Speaker Adapter - Pair: Electronics That would make it simple to fit the 6.5" woofer into the 6x8 hole. Only problem would be finding a spot to mount the tweeters and crossovers. For tweeters, if you don't care a whole lot about looks, you can mount them right on the dash with some hot glue or double sided tape. I've never dealt with an Altima like that, so I'm not sure about your mounting options. For the sub, I would just stick with sealed. You said you aren't looking for ridiculous output or the ability to go real low, so sealed sounds like it'll work great for you. But, a single 12" sealed might not be as loud as the two audiobahns you had. It's difficult to be sure w/o trying both though. I would recommend going with a few 8's or 10's though. They'll likely be cheaper and it might give you more of the sound you are looking for I might look into gettin some of those adapter plates in the future, seems like nothing more than screwing them into place. What are the advantages to running 6.5's over the 6x8's? I would think the larger 6x8 would produce better bass, is it just the fact that the 6.5s would be dedicated to just bass and not any higher freqs? Well for one, there are more 6.5's available then 6x8. Much bigger variety, plus most 6x8's are coaxial, which means the tweet and mid are together on one speaker. Components tend to sound better in all around sq. If you have decent 6x8's, then just get an amp for them. If you have stock speakers, you'll want some aftermarket speakers for better SQ. I would go with 6.5's, but depending on what you consider good sounding speakers, 6x8's with an amp might be fine for you. Yeah I have 2 sets of 6x8's, I got some alpines that sound real clean but only go down to 70hz, I swapped them out for my fosgates cause the fosgates get down to 60hz and since I lowered my crossover on the sub I needed the door speakers up front to get lower. They definately don't sound as nice as the Alpines tho. I'll lok into gettin some of those components in the future tho.

Would I have to hack up my car to get those in? I have zero fab skills and just as much tools, my door speakers right now are 6x8s. Amazon.com: Scosche SA68 Convertible 6x8-Inch Speaker Adapter - Pair: Electronics That would make it simple to fit the 6.5" woofer into the 6x8 hole. Only problem would be finding a spot to mount the tweeters and crossovers. For tweeters, if you don't care a whole lot about looks, you can mount them right on the dash with some hot glue or double sided tape. I've never dealt with an Altima like that, so I'm not sure about your mounting options. For the sub, I would just stick with sealed. You said you aren't looking for ridiculous output or the ability to go real low, so sealed sounds like it'll work great for you. But, a single 12" sealed might not be as loud as the two audiobahns you had. It's difficult to be sure w/o trying both though. I would recommend going with a few 8's or 10's though. They'll likely be cheaper and it might give you more of the sound you are looking for I might look into gettin some of those adapter plates in the future, seems like nothing more than screwing them into place. What are the advantages to running 6.5's over the 6x8's? I would think the larger 6x8 would produce better bass, is it just the fact that the 6.5s would be dedicated to just bass and not any higher freqs?

cant take credit for the image, and cant remember where i found it. but if you look at the graph i posted earlier, in a 1.35cf box my subs list a qtc of 1.2...

Right now I'm still using a 2003 model Hifonics Zues ZX7500 class AB amp, my Sundown shows up on Thursday. Crossover was at 80hz on the amp as well as the deck, but since then I've lowered the crossover point to around 60 and lowered the crossover point on my door/deck speakers to try to compensate. If you have WinISD alpha installed, and have some spare time, load up the "Audiobahn AW1251T" and let it choose a box for it. It's already built into my program so it should be in yours as well. I come up with a sealed box at 27.5cf for one sub. Load up the same driver in a box at 1.35cf and that's where I'm at. The transfer function graph shows that at 47hz I'm at -3dB, at 1dB by 60hz, and by the time it hits 80hz it's at 3dB. Which I'm assuming is where im gettin that boomy distorted bass. After looking at that graph I took advantage of the bass boost knob at 45hz on the amp, turned it up about a 1/4 turn so I can get some low frequency bass out of the subs. And out of curiosity what wouldn't you like about the setup. I'm not really good on the terminology for most of the stuff so its hard for me to explain. But I think loading up that sub in WinISD for yourself will explain it way better than I ever could. I'll see if i can load up my photobucket account and add soem pics of the graphs. edit: I had placed transient response as the graph title instead of transfer function I thought at the beginning you said you liked higher pitched bass like in rock and old school rap. I would turn your lowpass back up to somewhere around 80-100hz and turn the bass boost down. Probably part of the problem is that box is too small for the sub. If it's modeling best in a 27cuft box, that's like an infinite baffle setup. You might do better with different subs in that small sealed box. I still think you should get some 8's or even 6.5" like ... Yeah, I think you are misunderstanding me though. The problem is, when my stereo tries to play anything over 60hz the bass gets distorted and boomy due to the shitty subs. The reason I lowered my crossover was to filter out the shitty sounding bass, so my goal is to get 1 nice sub that will play up to 80hz accurately. I mean there is nothing wrong with the box itself, but my subs sound like shit in them. I stated at the begining that I'm looking to replace them. I'm not so concerned with the lower bass, like stuff in the 30's because my music doesnt get that low. But since I have the higher bass filtered out, there is such a small window where there is actually bass. So I had to beef up the lower freq's so that I have some bass.

Right now I'm still using a 2003 model Hifonics Zues ZX7500 class AB amp, my Sundown shows up on Thursday. Crossover was at 80hz on the amp as well as the deck, but since then I've lowered the crossover point to around 60 and lowered the crossover point on my door/deck speakers to try to compensate. If you have WinISD alpha installed, and have some spare time, load up the "Audiobahn AW1251T" and let it choose a box for it. It's already built into my program so it should be in yours as well. I come up with a sealed box at 27.5cf for one sub. Load up the same driver in a box at 1.35cf and that's where I'm at. The transfer function graph shows that at 47hz I'm at -3dB, at 1dB by 60hz, and by the time it hits 80hz it's at 3dB. Which I'm assuming is where im gettin that boomy distorted bass. After looking at that graph I took advantage of the bass boost knob at 45hz on the amp, turned it up about a 1/4 turn so I can get some low frequency bass out of the subs. And out of curiosity what wouldn't you like about the setup. I'm not really good on the terminology for most of the stuff so its hard for me to explain. But I think loading up that sub in WinISD for yourself will explain it way better than I ever could. I'll see if i can load up my photobucket account and add soem pics of the graphs. edit: I had placed transient response as the graph title instead of transfer function

and again thanks for the replies, I just don't want to go out and blow 400 bucks on something that doesn't sound good to me.

Would I have to hack up my car to get those in? I have zero fab skills and just as much tools, my door speakers right now are 6x8s.

If you read my last post all of the subs I listed were roughly $200, and from the ported enclosure prices I've looked at they are roughly $200, so total budget would be around $400. Again, if a sealed box would be best for what I'm looking for then I would be able to spend more on a sub since sealed boxes are pretty cheap. If the ported box is the way to go then I'm not looking to spend over $200 for the sub. The amp is the amp listed in my sig, Sundown Audio SAE1000D. The reason I say total space is "not a problem" is because the box in my trunk is 2.7cf and all of the manufacturers recommendations from the listed subs are all below 2.7cf. I thought I had listed the size of the box that was already in my trunk so that was my mistake.