Adrian_D

Baffle is cut. T-nuts are fiberglassed in place. When measuring the volume I filled it up with water and noticed a couple leaks. Fixed those too. Only thing left to do now is attach the baffle. Any ideas how to do it except dip pieces of mat in resin and place them on the seams by hand, through the cutout ? It's a messy procedure

<-- currently reading Dracula PFFFF, you should come and meet him live. Much more entertaining. haha, I'm sure is that what the D really stands for? Count Adrian Dracula? You bet it stands for Dracula !

Class ? It's July...

<-- currently reading Dracula PFFFF, you should come and meet him live. Much more entertaining.

Very nice tutorial

Pics aren't working.

Damn, broken PG MS 2250 on ebay. And I've got the money for it in my wallet. I hope it stays under $250....

To keep things safe

Let's take for instance 4 amps that I tested recently on the same subwoofer, on a 1ohm nominal load. 1. Ground Zero GZNA 1.2500 (same as the soundstream PCA 2000D, Lanzar Opti 2000D IIRC) : 44v unclipped. 2. Helix competition (rated at 1700w @ 1 ohm) : 50.3v unclipped. 3. Viper D2500.1 (rated 2500w @ 2 ohm) : 59v unclipped. 4. Lightning Audio Storm x2000d (rated 2000w @ 1 ohm) : 53v unclipped. You can see each amp had a voltage output over what the regular dmm gain setting formula dictates. Setting the gain with a dmm would actually be a more conservative method which I think it's a bit better for somebody that isn't extremely experienced in this sport (no offence intended to anyone).

That amp is decent. You will be fine setting it with a dmm. There is a gain setting tutorial posted somewhere.

Tu parles Francais aussi? Ah oui je fais. Along with fluent Italian and enough Spanish to survive in southern California. I had 4 years of French in high school and spoke quite well. Now, I think the only things I can remember are the alphabet and enough to order myself some food at McDonalds. I'm in a similar situation, only I finished high-school last summer. Kinda sad

Torroids don't just short out. You need to mechanically damage one to cause a short. The wires are coated and you have to scratch 2 wires, in their contact point, to get a short. Meaning either someone f'ed up during production (these are still hand wound) or someone worked where they shouldn't have worked. Or it's plain bs because they can't find a reason why the amp failed.

2 things : 1. Crappy build. You CAN'T damage a torr if you don't work on it. The ones who built it are at fault, if the torr is actually shorted out. 2. Major bullshit from the ones who diagnosed it. Solution : Forget about the Hifonics 2607. Oops, I meant AQ 2200. If they are spewing such bs and want to blame the trouble on you, tell them to screw themselfes.

Car audio meet today pretty much failed

Nice ! Can't wait to see pics of those installed

I actually lol'ed when I first saw that

Johhny Guido ? oh god, that reminds me of these Long Island douche bags I had to sit next to on the plane out here at one point, they actually were talking about the number of Jaeger bombs they had the night before Stereotypical ?

Johhny Guido ?

I like it Haven't seen too many around town though...

Didn't work on the car today at all. I just chased parts for the backhoe loader. Stealership wanted $190 for a single bearing. Found just the bearings it needs for $14ea. Quite some savings

Seems like I'm going to replace the caps in a motherboard.... Stupid thing didn't want to boot right...when I opened the case some caps around the cpu were all brown on the top. Can't be a good thing for sure

A lot of power for an 18 in the house

Nice upgrade I think the springs will "settle" in a bit and you will get to around 3 inches. Is the slip yoke on the T-case ? Or on the drive-shaft ?

Where are those tracks ?

I would build a bigger enclosure than 0.5cf. Very small box + low tuning = huge port.