Randal Johnson

You mean those chrome screws with the matching back plates ??I assume the interior trim already has the dimples where the screws are so wouldn't think you would need the back plate. Stainless steel screw's would look best IMO.As far as what was in the car ... I wouldn't know. Most "useable" stuff was robbed for other projects. But I will definately look into it ... Thanks Brother ... I actually have 2 compressors for it, a tank, and some other goodies I forgot to take pics of ... Should be a fun project !!!

Oh yea ... Almost forgot !!! I got my hands on a few goodies for the truck and never used them ... So now they will be used for this 49 Ford !!! This car will most definately have some Air Ride installed !!!

I just looked up the product ... not the prices However ... They work REALLY well in the field. I know SEVERAL Sound Quality people that run them ...

instead of going with stock headunit, Audio Control, and mini DSP ... Why not keep your stock headunit and go with this ... HELIXDSP - Digital 8-channel signal processor http://www.helixhifi.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=454204# should have all you need !!! Which way would be on axis? Correct ... May not be the best location for tweeters like earlier posted in this thread ... but a good way to make better due with what you have to work with ...

I've done a blow through setup to several of those trucks ... I think the height of the blow through from the bottom of the bed to the top of your cab line is only about 10 inches or so ... can't remember exact, but close ... I think you can go as wide a 49 inches depending on if you have a fleetside bed or a stepside bed ... If it's a stepside bed ... just cut out the width of your bed less than 2 inches on each side and you should be good ... From what I've seen ... cutting the largest blow through hole, the better ... And it's always best if you have some sort of bed cover for your truck, especially if you plan to have your amplifiers and extra batteries back there ... I've seen guys use bedliner material and not use bed covers ... but the problem with this is that when you need to go back in for repairs and upgrades ... you can't because you've sealed everything ... Not good because I do not think you can squeeze those huge drivers through the blow through hole and could be VERY uncomfortable getting yourself through there and secure the drivers down properly ... Please remember this ... When cutting your blow through, make rounded corners so your accordian boot will completely seal between your bed and cab ... Now when you build your enclosure for 1 or 2 15s ... It can be a basic ported and tuned enclosure. I usually set them up around 40 htz ... Then you have to make a mouth opening from the front of your enclosure through the blow through hole and into the cabin area ... So when you have your seat all the way back (like most tall people like me) your tuning should come out right ... ... And just about guaranteed to beat you and your significant other's brains in going down the road ... With your finderwells, small blow through port opening, and bedcover installed ... you shouldn't have to worry about your enclosure moving much ... But I'd advise bolting that sucker dowm where ever you can ... Oh yea ... Bolt down and not completely seal your top mouth end of your enclosure because you will most likely have to get back in there for driver / woofer reapairs and such ... I have pics of my blow through enclosure if you would like to see them, but it was set up as a below the cabin window line wall with 4 isoberic 10s installed ... Almost the same, but different ... Please keep in mind that this is all just my suggestions here based on several trials, errors,and sucess builds in the past ... How ever you decide to go with this ... Best of luck Sir !!! I'm tuned in for the build !!!

I do not remember seeing this Van in Huntsville ... Was it there ??? But then again, I did not get to spend much time in the SPL area at that event ...

From the looks by the pics ... It seems like you could work with your tweeters and get them a little more on axis behind the panel ... Seen it done many times ...

You mean those chrome screws with the matching back plates ??

Won't go far with only a 5 gallon fuel cell ... Maybe later, but for now ... I only need it to be able to go on and off the trailer to different shops and events ...

54 Bel-Air huh ... Nice !!!Yea, we will have to fabricate everything as far as the interior goes ... Not sure how we are going to secure all those panels, not show any screws, and major prevention of any rattles ... Gonna have to use clips of some kind ...

Well for now, the high / low beam selector switch is disabled ... Beings I have no plans to actually drive this car, that switch would be in the way of the kick panel driver so I'm not going to use it ... I don't have any plans to install any windshield wipers either ... Besides ... Those HID low beams are bad ass !!!

My Stock Steelies were just too rusty to keep, So I got these wheels to go on there until I get to the point of installing some really cool Wheels and Tires on the old Ford ... Plans are to go with 18s on the front and 20s on the rear ...

I would like to say Thank You SSA for all your help and support on this thread ... About towards the end of the year, We had to put this car on hold to get the truck Ready for World Finals ... Competed ... had fun, and now the Truck (my 1997 Chevy Silverado) has been officially retired from Car Audio competition and is now planning to be used as a "tow pig" for this 1949 Ford from here on out ... Just about everything has been taken out of the Chevy and is in storage until the 49 Ford is ready for audio installation ... So Now its just about time to get back to work on this 1949 Ford ... Some plans are still the same, and some plans have changed ... Guess we can into that later ... But for now, we will start with this ... This is what the car looked like when we put her up for the winter ... Man, this car rides and drives good !!! When we do change up the front suspension ... Plans are to go with the "FatMan Mustang II" setup with disc brakes and Ari Ride ... But for now, Stock will have to do. So this past weekend, We got the Mastar Cylinder rebuilt and hopefully I can get it installed back into the car this week So I can get her up on the trailer and down to dad's shop for a complete tune up !!! I can't wait to get a hot battery back into this car and hear her purr like a kitten again !!!

No way I'd put my Cruze through that punishment ...

I'm not sure ... But I'm thinking that you could upgrade your amplifier to a 3500 and get louder (and upgrade the electrical if needed) ...

Maybe you can get one 15" driver in there ... Should be bad ass with adequate power and electrical.

Why would you want to put SOO much weight into that cool Sports Car ... My wife has a 2012 Chevy Cruze ... After reading all of this about 4th order bandpass enclosusres, I thought about hooking my wiffe up with a pair of 10s for her birthday ...

I'm sure there's more ... That's just the only 2 that I know for sure because I seen them up close and got demos from ... I'm not sure what Trunk 1 is ?? That's a SPL class ?? But I do remember a Green Camaro in SQ, but I never got a chance to look at it or get a demo ... We may be talking about the same car with Arc Audio products ???

I know the feeling brother ... If it wasn't for bad luck, we wouldn't have any luck at all.

I only know of 2 cars with "sucessful" competition enclosures built like this ... ... And I am so aggrivated that Ican not fimd my pics from these ... One is from a Todd Crowder built car I got to demo at USACI 2010 World Finals in Shreveport, La ... The other I got to demo at 2013 SPring Break Nationals ... One of the best Sound Quality vehicles in the world ... Scott's G35 (all pics copy and paste from Google) Yes, that's 4 Hybrid Imagine 6.5's in this enclosure ...

I believe he said that he was going with the Audison unit ...

If you are planning a comp "Burp" or 30 sec SPL enclosure I'd suggest tuning WAY higher than 44 htz ...tbh I think I just wanna be a bit louder than my current setup I may only compete a few times a year. I want to get a good bit of exp before I get that deep in You could possibly tune to 57 htz and still get considerably good amout of low end bass ... depending on enclosure build and euuipment being used ... I'm just suggesting because I always see lower tuned "Cars" get their asses handed to them ... They "sound" good and get loud ... but none of that matters to a SPL meter, which is the ONLY thing that counts in SPL competition ..

Where will the 8s be installed ?? I'm hoping so! Although Ive never heard the SP4s sealed, so the first box going in will be around 10 cubes sealed. Try it out, and see the response I get.Are you going to "Wall" this car ??

Nice Driver

If you are planning a comp "Burp" or 30 sec SPL enclosure I'd suggest tuning WAY higher than 44 htz ...