Randal Johnson

When you do a major dash install for stage and image, your ultimate goal is to have the entire sound up and out on your dash. Your mid bass is most likely where you left it, just blended with the dash. Once I got dialed in with time alignment, my doors practically disappeared (way they should be). my guess is your doors are out of phase with your dash drivers (if you have them wired exact negative and positive). First thing I would try is locating an audio test disc. If I can remember correctly, you can order one from USACI. Change the polarities on the midbass drivers to phase them up with the dash. Hope this helps !!!

I would contact the manufacturer of the board for a schematic diagram or a recommended repair shop.

Gotcha. Looking forward to vids and thoughts !!!

Very nice drivers !!! Why are you going sealed ??

Awesome Review Sir.

Goals ?? Musical or pressure ??

I’m no enclosure designer, but most setups I’ve seen with a simple pair of 12s is sub’s back, port back with a 36ish htz tune.

What’s wrong with the tweeters that’s in the component set package ??

Same Here.

Personally, I can not tell the difference between 2 way passive and 2 way active. Going active made me use 2 amplifiers with no major difference with stage and image. Shows how good my speakers are installed I guess. Think i’m Going back to passive and get my sub back on one of my 2150s for now. 2150s have the best left and right separation Qualities so I should be good there. Hopefully, I can get this done this weekend. As for the Helix, love the EQ capabilities !!! 32 bands on the left and 32 on the right !!! And time alignment is WAY easier to tune than on the Kenwood. Not spending the money on a sub amplifier will help me get closer to the new Kenwood head unit !!!

I understand brother, my family is the only reason why I’m on call 24-7 doing heavy recovery. However, I do find time for my Avalanche. Not much, but it keeps me happy. Get it all playing and post a vid !!!

Herman Smith (MECA SQ Competitor) has one similar. His sub enclosure and amp rack is a center console stretched from dash to rear window with 4 bucket seats. I know it can be done. also, posting vehicle pics would help us help you with ideas and suggestions. Just trying to help brother ...

Awesome Vid

Find a pair of buckets in the junk yard and replace the rear bench and build a center console for the rear of the vehicle.

So you’re installing a sub under the front seats of a Quad Cab truck ??? Why ???

Good luck with kicks, I’ve never had any with them ... even when I vented through the body panel.

Deaden the shit out of your doors, install rear wave canceling material behind the drivers, make awesome baffles, mlv between the panel and door, throw some bad ass class a/b ssa power to them, and rock them bitches !!!

As in bookshelf speakers ??

I’d much rather blow a 100 amp fuse than to burn up an amplifier with an over sized fuse. Honestly, depending on good wiring practices, you should be fine with a 100 amp main line fuse.

I’m trying to locate my pics of Dylan’s 91 Ford F-150 single cab install.

If your amplifier has 120 amps of fusing, your max fuse in the Audio run in the vehicle should be no more than 120 amps. If you go over max fuse rating, the fuse will not do it’s job. Just Saying

94 F150 ... 8” drivers in the doors ???

Center console ???

Welcome. Best thing I can suggest would be to browse the SSA store.

I’m no enclosure designer. This is what was installed in my Avalanche. Also, this is what was designed for many of my SUV friends. I’m sure the SSA store has what you need whatever you choose.