ssh

Me too. Have you used any solvents for eating away foam by chance? Okay never mind, the urethane foam is designed to not be eaten away by any solvents.

Time to wake up the lazy neighbors.

I have to figure out the exact mounting points I'll be using, but then I can cut openings all around. I read a bunch of reviews trying the drivers in small enclosures, and IB. Everyone liked it much more in IB. I'll shoot for 7-9 in^2 The sd is around 7in^2, maybe a tad more. I think Ryan mentioned it earlier, and I read it on the foam website, but the stuff I got is designed to not be eaten away from any solvents. The dremel and screw driver will have to do.

I have a 3m respirator with carbon filters, hopefully that will work. Thanks for letting me know.

I'm actually pretty happy where I live, slightly rural. I get to take a few slightly windy roads with zero traffic, triple digits for a few minutes to get it out of my system is always good.

I'm opening up the back of the kicks, so I figured I wouldn't have to. No? Going to need a bigger opening than most would if that's the case. If you have no volume in the enclosure then you can't have flow restrictions either. At the same time, make sure your driver is IB friendly then that you put in there. I just figured that you were making your kicks so big because they were to be enclosures. I also know that I've seen things (can't remember what as it wasn't on purpose) that digest expanding foam and thought maybe you knew something that wouldn't hurt the mdf and would digest the foam which would make that process even better. Pretty sure that would require a liquid though so you'd have to seal your mdf rings first...but again thought you knew of something that I didn't that would make a few things I'd like to work on easier. I've heard of solvents doing such, but haven't looked into. I think Ryan said gasoline works. Just going to be a mess to clean up. The drivers are IB oriented, so I'm definitely opening the back. I can also stick the dremel in the sides, it won't gain a ton of volume, but a bit more. I should have curved the pods a little more, but I was staying away from that volcano look. Do you think a 3" diameter cutout, offset behind the motor by an inch or two, would suffice?

Speaking of fast cars. Yesterday on my way home, I had some fun with a new corvette. Of course I'm not comparing cars, but I got him to "show off", and I'd slowly catch up.

I'm opening up the back of the kicks, so I figured I wouldn't have to. No?

It's incredibly easy to shape, and I don't have to deal with wrinkles in the fabric. You just have to be careful you use the right type of foam or the resin can eat it. The mids are actually hat l4s. I know right? I heard them in a setup about a year back, and absolutely loved the sound. I'm sure there are other drivers that are half the cost, and perform just as well, but I knew for a fact that I should like the l4s. Every few months it seems! Once I finish the front, in a few months I'll probably redo the rear area, and perhaps get a ported box built. I'll let you know when it's up and rolling through. I still have to do the a-pillars!

Yeah you are only doing 55's+. but it dosnt look loud on a video so its not cool Exactly man. If the shit don't flex, it ain't loud.

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. I sorta forgot about the endothermic reaction during the expanding foam's curing, it got hot enough that it started melting the clay. Luckily the curing process was extremely fast, and didn't actually allow the baffles to be moved in any way. catalyst ratios on notecard, wax paper for laying down mat, and applying resin first. I'm using 3/4 oz chopped mat in multiple layers, and general purpose polyester based resin. On one of the kicks, I laid down one single piece of mat (already wet'd out), but it didn't want to contour around the bottom edges. So once it cured I had to cut the bottom edging all the way around, and do strips for the seam. On the second kick, I used pieces, and since the 3/4 oz mat is so thin, it was easy to maintain a smooth surface, even with adding more and more layers on. Tomorrow is sanding, one coat of resin+cab-o-sil, and sanding. I have to wait a few days for primer and paint to show up. In the mean time I'll mount the kicks, and make sure everything works as planned.

My volvo didn't flex much, but something similar in a toyota or honda civic would probably flex a lot more. Not all cars are built the same.

The blue socket appears to be for speakers, the one next to it (black, yellow, red, white) is power, and the big black line is antenna. The rest are probably for steering wheel controls, dimming, etc.

yeah iv Looked through all the subs that were in the 400-600rms range and iv just always had a thing for FI. So i decided the FI x12 was gunna be the sub i bought. just wish it didnt take so damn long to make... It is a custom driver. So instead of buying something off the shelf at a store, someone is custom building a subwoofer in Las Vegas for you. I know it's hard to wait, but be patient.

Welcome to the forum. The fi x should be a nice upgrade.

terrible information dude. any comparison would have to identical installation. flipping between speakers installed in the rear and speakers in the front doors is in no way a far comparison. Exactly. Same thing as saying you saw a Ferrari in bumper to bumper traffic, and a mustang driving down a barren road. The mustang was going faster, therefore it's faster then a Ferrari? Speakers can only do so much, it's all about the install.

Looks fun, I bet id be in the first guard rail though.

Can you build the enclosure yourself and save that money? I would focus more on the enclosure design, and less about the amp. Power is the least efficient way to increase output.

Must be top secret shit. I know what your doing though. Putting speakers in a car.

Damn, its not going anywhere.

Rears is a personal choice, I don't like any music behind me.

Movie time at jareds

Sweet

Whatcha doing?