ssh

grandprixbass Sound familiar? Wonder why you made a new account? Oh wait I remember, you shipped stuff for several members and it all magically disappeared. For future reference to anyone reading this, I would not do business with this user. Same gay color dash: same location, same occupation, same car. I apologize for my vulgar behavior, somewhat, but I had him ship something for me, only for it to disappear, and he stopped answering PMs on ssa, smd, etc.

Mechman 300amp and zero gauge wire to the battery and ground to the battery. Is this fuse going in between the alternator & battery, or battery & amplifier? Are you using 1/0 wire from the battery to the amplifier? Does the amplifier have on-board fusing? Alt and battery. 300a anl fuse will work fine.

Mechman 300amp and zero gauge wire to the battery and ground to the battery. Is this fuse going in between the alternator & battery, or battery & amplifier? Are you using 1/0 wire from the battery to the amplifier? Does the amplifier have on-board fusing?

Light comes on, but no output? That's a bummer to hear.

dont bother, better subs can be had for cheaper.... give me a budget price and i can recommend u something Better in what regard?

Each.

Minor correction: that picture I believe is of Doug Winkler's JBL 2118's, this is a picture of Garry's Regal: Regal Yep your right, I forgot Gary Bigg used them in his regal, but built those (the image I posted) for Doug's setup.

Never said it was easy, but figured they would try a different approach after seeing the first one fail. I don't know the techniques to craning though.

Are you fucking kidding me?!

I didn't notice until a few days later, already installed the product, and they state no refunds on what I bought. I'm not going to bother with trying to get a discount after the fact, it's pretty clear to me that after they said the original discount expired after 30 days (which was not stated anywhere) that their business practices leave something to be desired. I'm posting this for public view, nothing else.

I just know a lot of drivers are advertised with a wide frequency bandwidth, and even state "usable", yet in reality it's far from ideal.

Interesting read.

I'm sick again, but my twitch has ceased to exist. Fucker still hasn't gone away.

As some of you know, Second Skin Audio had a contest a few months back for "team members." I placed second or something on the ssa forum, and was told I would receive a one time 50% off discount. No where listed was an expiration date. Two months later I needed sound deadener. I sent Ken (owner) an email and asked if they will still honor the discount, he said unfortunately it expired after 30 days, but we would be happy to give you a 25% off discount. I locally purchased the product, installed it, and a few days later glanced over my invoice, I received no discount. ----------------------- A few days later, I posted some slandered statements about Second Skin here in this topic. Which was a mistake on my part, a big mistake. Ken replied to this thread here: explaining the original discount did have an expiration date, but that it was sent an email. I believe it was sent to all the winners, but not necessarily everyone who received a discount, as I received no email. So I no reason to be perturbed by that anymore. Ken simply did not know / remember who I was at the time of purchase, and forget to discount the product. He has issued a discount, AFTER I slandered his company. Lessons learned: don't make assumptions, as I made myself into a big asshole, Ken is a really nice guy, and I would definitely use SS again, mind you if they would even deal with me again. Thank you Second Skin, thank you Ken. I apologize for jumping to conclusions too hastily and running my mouth.

I think this project deserves a few pics posted in the ihop.

Makes sense though when I TL'd the mustang 34 was my loudest freq tuned at 33 hz... but since then I've reduced internal volume and subsequently raised tuning (by how much I'm not sure, but I did do it in steps). any insights besides cabin accoustics? In modeling, the lower the enclosure volume, the less peak the zcon has. A lower tuning along with less volume should help flatten out the response, but cabin gain will still be present, and I'm not entirely sure you would be happy with reducing this peak of output, after all, you walled your car.

As Brad said, horns require some extensive EQ ability. I've only used one type of large format tweeters: Peeless/scanspeak hds tweets. I've had them crossed around 2000hz and they worked well, but that doesn't mean they would work at 1500hz. I would start playing with the sundown neos and find out exactly how high you can play them until you hear cone break up, etc. Then you can start looking for a driver that has a "usable" FR down to the neos. As Brad said, the neos will start to "beam" around 1500hz. From what I understand on the subject, as the wavelength of the frequency being played is near the same length as the diameter of the cone, then interference occurs, beam pattern changes, and this causes peaks and dips in the FR in an off-axis situation. Beaming can be found by dividing the speed of sound by the diameter of the moving cone. Units must be the same. example: sd = 310cm^2, and speed of sound = 340m/s 310/10000 = 0.031m^2 area of circle = pi*r^2 0.031 = pi*r^2 0.00986761 = r^2 0.09933584 = r d = r*2 diameter = 0.198671m 340 m/s (speed of sound) / 0.198671 = 1711. So a speaker with an sd of 310cm^2 will start to beam around 1700hz. Here's an example of a diffraction ring from Gary Bigg's regal: There is no pattern to the size of the teeth, you just want them to be varied in length so it breaks up the interference and attenuates the side lobes.

Brad wouldn't this be a good application for a diffraction ring?

That's what I was thinking sort of, along those lines, thanks lithium.

Actually I believe that is an older Mercedes. Ill bet you its an x5. Wait, I think your right. Lower right, you can barely tell the head light. Only reason I know is I've seen the build log.

Actually I believe that is an older Mercedes. Ill bet you its an x5.

I don't have a rear deck to mount to. I'm thinking about sticking the extra battery in that cavity to the right of it. That's where the stock bass combo thingy majig was. Fiberglass a container in there, rivet in, mount the battery on it's side. Then make a big amp rack. The current picture looks pretty clean to me, which was the goal, but with the big enclosure sitting on top, it doesn't anymore. Not to mention if I ever change amps I have to redo the top panel. If you guys have any favorite "clean" installs, post'em up. Oh and my spare tire is underneath all that, so with the battery on side, a giant quick disconnect (8 speaker wires, 4 power wires, rem, and rca signal), and some gas lift supports, then I could actually use the spare if need be.

Current draw will increase dramatically when switching from 1 to 0.5, just something to keep in mind.

I've never used a warden so I don't have any input on how it sounds, but don't let the size of the cone deter your opinion in regards to sq. Personally I wouldn't run any amp at 0.5, others will argue they've done it, and had no issues, but it creates a lot more heat, and I believe induces more distortion.

Yep. I believe it's a diesel. It has a battery bank underneath the car, and a steel subwoofer enclosure flush with the cargo area floor. Yeah, I was being a dick. I hate it when people refer to an ENGINE as a MOTOR, and Jon stated how he was having some fun time with Jager, so I figured I'd poke at him a bit. Write to MotorTrend, Department of Motor Vehicle, etc, and complain.