ssh

That's not out of budget? Sounds a bit overkill to me, unless he decided to take full advantage of them with a larger amplifier, battery reserve, etc.

That's plenty of power, but your much more likely to yield more output with more cone area.

No one can say anything for certain, only testing will tell.

^This is terrible advice.

2 12s would have more cone area and more likely to be louder, and you seem to have plenty of room for them. Have you considered the ssa icons? A pair of those would be very musical, but still have lots of output. As to which is going to be better out of the following?

I coulda kicked you in the face for much less then $1731.

Awesome deal, so nuts!

Yeah I'm aware that when one part becomes stronger and or increased power then more force is applied to other parts and likely break. I never thought about swapping turbos simply because I still wanted my car to be reliable, but then I found out its the same exact turbo used from volvo on the same engine, so aside from raising the pressure a little bit, it sounds pretty reliable to me. As for the chip and what all it entails, I haven't done too much research yet, taking one thing at a time. Honestly I'm just looking for a little extra umph, and the possibility for more upgrades along with the 14t if later down the road I "get into it." Which I probably will Pegs? There you go. Not in black though. I like black but the stock grey is nice too!

Because halogen bulbs aren't as bright, they only use a reflector to aim the light, HID's need a projector to create a cutoff as to not blind other people Thank you.

Can anyone explain to me why those cheap hid kits don't work in stock headlight housing? I've heard it's because the stock housing isn't designed for the hids and it'll blind on coming traffic, but can anyone explain how exactly it doesn't work.

Yeah I'm aware that when one part becomes stronger and or increased power then more force is applied to other parts and likely break. I never thought about swapping turbos simply because I still wanted my car to be reliable, but then I found out its the same exact turbo used from volvo on the same engine, so aside from raising the pressure a little bit, it sounds pretty reliable to me. As for the chip and what all it entails, I haven't done too much research yet, taking one thing at a time. Honestly I'm just looking for a little extra umph, and the possibility for more upgrades along with the 14t if later down the road I "get into it." Which I probably will Pegs?

I just know everything is installed, I can get it dyno'd, then send the information off to the tuning company. iPd Also has a tune, but I need to contact them if they have anything for my model, or just other volvos. Just an example: But I'm certainly no car expert.

Yeah I'm pretty stoked about it, especially how relatively easy it is. I found a few people on the volvo forum with dyno charts before and after, from 12t to 14t and ecu tune, gaining nearly 90hp! Yes, but where do they make the extra power? I'm sure it's more so in the higher range and less near the bottom end, but everyone swears by the tune saying it makes a very noticeable difference everywhere. This is the company: http://www.upsolute.com/

Fun stuff, ice cream sandwich time.

Yeah I'm pretty stoked about it, especially how relatively easy it is. I found a few people on the volvo forum with dyno charts before and after, from 12t to 14t and ecu tune, gaining nearly 90hp!

I found out that they sold my car in Europe with the T4 option, the only difference is a larger turbo. So I'm planning on swapping out the 12t turbo to a oem 14t mistibushi / volvo turbo later this month, even the stock injectors are good--for now. base = 160hp, T4 = 200hp. Of course that's not whp, but with a ecu tune... Then considering a 3" downpipe and new exhaust, and ecu tune from ipd or UPsolute.

Yea my icon is the same way, im guessing all the new black baskets from fi will be the same, kinda a bummer but oh well, im not using plexi or inverted so I don't really have any reason to Bitch about it.

I'm curious as to how he knows he's giving it 1500watts. I should have also stated that it will also depend on how long the wire runs are. I'm not trying to bash your Lantz, just don't want to see you fry your amp, or start a fire, hopefully the wire is fused?! i was just giving the 1500 a shot in the dark. by the looks of the subs excursion and output, i said 1500. and yeah the wire is fused. i guess ill take out the aq3500 after work today and throw the zr240 back on her. just to be safe Do you already have your 1/0 gauge wire? Just wire it up now so it's one less thing to do when you get your alt in, and then you can still use your aq3500 (just be easy on it).

I'm curious as to how he knows he's giving it 1500watts. I should have also stated that it will also depend on how long the wire runs are. I'm not trying to bash your Lantz, just don't want to see you fry your amp, or start a fire, hopefully the wire is fused?!

Depending on where your gain is set, that is a terrible idea.

Don't see very many fiberglass builds on here. Tuned in.

You need a SSF, otherwise the drivers will play below enclosure tuning and likely bottom out. Hlab makes inline crossover filters called fmod, 20hz hpf is black(red label) and 30hz hpf (red label) is double black. http://www.hlabs.com/colors/ 20hz still leaves a fair amount of room for problem, 30hz will reduce some of the bottom end output. Or get a simple sound processor / crossover. Notes under 20hz make my car shake though, I don't want to get rid of them! They won't necessarily be gone, but they will be attenuated. If your that adamant about it, build a new box that's tuned lower, and of course there are drawbacks to this. Or leave it as is, and if your speakers stop working, don't complain. Should I get the 20hz to match hearing, or 30hz to match my tuning? I just looked at sonic electronix and didn't really see any relatively cheap and basic sound processors that had a ssf/hpf below 30hz. If you get the 20hz, your low end output won't suffer much, but the 30hz will reduce a bit of the bottom end, but it'll be safer. If it was me, I'd play it safe and get the 30hz.

You need a SSF, otherwise the drivers will play below enclosure tuning and likely bottom out. Hlab makes inline crossover filters called fmod, 20hz hpf is black(red label) and 30hz hpf (red label) is double black. http://www.hlabs.com/colors/ 20hz still leaves a fair amount of room for problem, 30hz will reduce some of the bottom end output. Or get a simple sound processor / crossover. Notes under 20hz make my car shake though, I don't want to get rid of them! They won't necessarily be gone, but they will be attenuated. If your that adamant about it, build a new box that's tuned lower, and of course there are drawbacks to this. Or leave it as is, and if your speakers stop working, don't complain.

Well with the description provided I can't say anything for certain as to what exactly your problem is or how it occurred, but I can promise you that without a SSF those drivers will not last as long as they should.

You need a SSF, otherwise the drivers will play below enclosure tuning and likely bottom out. Hlab makes inline crossover filters called fmod, 20hz hpf is black(red label) and 30hz hpf (red label) is double black. http://www.hlabs.com/colors/ 20hz still leaves a fair amount of room for problem, 30hz will reduce some of the bottom end output. Or get a simple sound processor / crossover.