ssh

Buy one for the W? One? Try three, we live on the lake.

List your maximum dimensions, width, depth, and height. Listening tastes? The more info you provide the less questions He'll have to ask each time, and the quicker you can get your box.

^That's the spirit.

"Hell Yeah! This is so much fuuu" kushasjiudsiuccxsdhd, dead.

0.45in = ~ 11.5mm But yeah definitely should go out and buy a handgun.

That and helmets, It's amazing how many people don't wear helmets on quads, the ratio is so high...

I'm not going to comment on which amp to buy, but once you have an amp, install it, start setting the gain and watch your voltage. If your voltage drops a lot then your going to need more battery reserve, if it doesn't then your obviously good to go. And don't max out the gain to see the max voltage drop you can get, just start reaching the max level before you can hear distortion.

Buy one for the W?

And you'd misquote and show that you didn't understand them. Its amazing how confused you are. More air space in your kicks once vented than your doors and no mechanical garbage to deal with either. Midbass and doors is a mess when it comes to deadening and getting rid of the rattles. Of course with the antique drivers you are using that isn't so hard to deal with. To clarify further a single seat installation it usually works out when both drivers have similar off axis aimings to your listening position. Generically the goal is to provide the same eq to both sides from a frequency response perspective so that you aren't moving the stage around during tuning to clean up either side. I too would say eff the passenger Stage height for the most part isn't going to come from your mids, it comes from the upper midrange and tweeters, which in a 2-way the tweeters will for the most part cover. In the midbass and lower midrange generally speaking your ears can't even determine "height", just left-right ques. The significant portion of the height ques are going to come from the tweeter in a 2-way. And following that the height has more to do with proper FR, proper time arrival and reflections, etc, and not necessarily the physical location of the drivers. If you sat in my car with your eyes closed I don't believe you'd be able to tell the speakers were next to your feet. Brad, you know that will be lost on the guy who thinks you need a center channel to raise and fix your stage. Ewwwwwwwww! As big as possible, but if you consider a port tuned to the lowest frequency of your driver and an enclosure you just want to keep the mach down somewhat like in a ported enclosure. It isn't port sound you are trying to minimize but instead trying to adequately allow the driver to breath. So for an overall stage for both seats, try aiming towards the headunit. For just the driver seat, aim both pods with same degree of angle on y-axis directly to the head rest? The backside of the kick pod will be tucked under the dash and I may be able to run a 4" pvc pipe out and into the dash. Just have to measure the volume first and find tuning around 50hz.

wrong guy, think ryan has them for sale. Sorry. I didn't recall right. I got the peerless hds from Ryan.

When you parked your car, there wasn't an aux fan on? After long drives and parking, my fan stays on to cool everything down. If you check your car an hour after its been parked and it's not drawing that current anymore then I wouldn't worry about it.

I'm not going to say this is the problem, but it might be. If your stock electrical couldn't keep up with the current draw from the amp, then the voltage could have dropped low enough and long enough that it fried your amp. Can you confirm what your voltage was at full tilt? Just because your head lights didn't dim, doesn't mean you didn't suffer low voltage. Most cars with HIDs will not dim as the voltage fluctuates as a standard halogen bulb setup, the reason being HIDs use a ballast and isn't directly effected by increase/decrease in voltage. If your not willing to take this into consideration, or even bother to check the ratings on your battery and oem alternator then your wasting our time and you mine as well stop asking for help.

150s in an suv isn't very hard

^Good points

Three words. . . . Big BOOTY Bitches! Hell Yeah!

I wouldn't buy a vehicle soley on the purpose of your stereo, I did it and its a pretty dumb idea looking back, I still love my car don't get me wrong, but id rather have gone with something a little smaller, any way... If you overall like the explorer more or want the space, that's one thing, but to buy it for more subs... And lastly don't plan on ever four wheeling in a ford explorer lol. I know the ford explorers were the number one vehicle traded in for the cash for clunkers. I know Id never get an explorer.

A single 12" in a ported enclosure will have similar output to two 12" same drivers in a sealed enclosure. There are exceptions, such enclosure volumes and tuning, but for the most part it holds true.

The Knu Konceptz, or the ones I suggested? And to everybody, this is good news. I might irder em and give em a shot, I can return em if they don't suffice. Will be running to an Addictive Audio 10.4 (115 x 4 @ 4) The ones you suggested.

Im gonna glass all the corners to ensure a proper seal but im trying to stay away from glassing too much inside the box. i want it as smooth as possible. I'm not sure what could be any smoother then fiberglass.

I actually just got those cables for an install in my father's truck, worked out well.

Progress A lot of times I see the bottom areas like near fenderwells (curved) fiberglassed, then glassed all the way to the wood for sealing.

What made you decide to add one now? Same reason I decided to get rid of 147db of bass for a killer front stage, something different?

Sure don't hear that often, too loud

More pics I started glassing my kick panel area for a base, pulled out my huge enclosure from the back, and made a small wood case for the ms8 and 4chan amp.

That's nuts. Doesn't make me feel so bad having my enclosure shipped from california.