ssh

Really their not really expensive compared to other subs in its class.(If any can be classified as being close to it) Think of the USA parts and the time they put into making them, the price is very reasonable. If I remember correctly, the SMD spends 4-5 times longer on a CNC than say a BL or Q. Then you look at other companies, that imports 95% of their sub, and spend no time on a CNC and yet AA is still cheaper priced. Yep, one of a kind type driver if you ask me.

Top Gear UK > Top Gear US

I love Rage Gold. I have used it for quite some time. You can also skip a final sand and use a good filler primer like Slick Sand from ever coat. Another trick is to take equal parts filler and resin, mix thoroughly, add your MEKP, then you can brush on the filler and it will self level. You can also pour it on as well, but this may cause air bubbles. Ill be ordering some rage gold and slick sand then. Have you used the us composites resin before? If so was it the general purpose or 435(sp?) Ill try the resin and filler mix later today. Have to change my front dirtbike tire first, so fun. I just get whatever is cheapest. All you need is a generic polyester resin. Just be careful if you let it cure before adding another layer. Many have styrene which wicks up to the surface as they cure and needs to be sanded off before laminating another layer. This is why your polyester resin feels waxy. You can use epoxy resin as it has no smell, but it's more expensive. It is more stable though and UV resistant, so if you are using it for something that will see weather, I would use it there. For the kicks, just use the cheapest polyester you can find. Yeah generally I lay a few layers down before letting is completely dry, otherwise I sand down a little bit to get rid of the "wax". I finished the other pod today and installed it. I picked up a ton more midbass and sounds a good bit better in other areas. Now I know kick pods are awesome, I'm a little better at glassing, and picked up some pointers on the way, I'm going to go at it again in a few weeks when I'm not burnt out and take my time. Thanks for all the help.

I'm not looking to start anything, but I believe everyone has the right to know. There is a huge thread on c a about some of his previous enclosure work, but if I remember correctly this was from several years ago. Lets just say there was a lot of unhappy people.

A single 18" hitting 180 mark. Oh wait...

Ah, it'll only leak when he's upside down. Yeah and the rest of the time fumigate the cabin, LOL.

Make sure your not screwing down into the gas tank

I was at my neighbors house for a welcome to the neighborhood kind of thing, bunch of old folk, one kept spewing "keystone nectar of the gods!" I had to tell him I'm eighteen and don't even drink that, what the fuck is wrong with you

I love Rage Gold. I have used it for quite some time. You can also skip a final sand and use a good filler primer like Slick Sand from ever coat. Another trick is to take equal parts filler and resin, mix thoroughly, add your MEKP, then you can brush on the filler and it will self level. You can also pour it on as well, but this may cause air bubbles. Ill be ordering some rage gold and slick sand then. Have you used the us composites resin before? If so was it the general purpose or 435(sp?) Ill try the resin and filler mix later today. Have to change my front dirtbike tire first, so fun.

Why no mat ? It's simple to add and it's what provides the strength. I've always used mat, just wasn't sure why I was finding all these videos of people using mat on door panels but not kick panels, made no sense, thought I'd ask. The fabric was a bitch, tons of wrinkles, but enough fiberglass mat toned it down, sanded like hell, and used slightly more bondo then normal. Still has a lot of inperfections but I'm going to layer the inside with clay tomorrow and install. If it sounds good I'll be taking them back out for more sanding. Probably add some more resin in the inside in case I missed anywhere, like the white wrinkled spot If you had wrinkles, you didn't have the fabric stretched tight enough. There is a key to body filler. You want to sand the high spots off during the "green" stage. This is the stage right where it starts to harden up. Get yourself a body rasp or some 36 grit sandpaper or the like and go to town when it's in this stage and you'll cut your sanding time in half. I can give you a ton of tips, I grew up in a body shop. Two problems with the wrapping the fabric in this situation, at least for me. Everything was hot glued and dowel'd together so it was fairly strong but I wouldn't go crazy on yanking the fabric or I'd start breaking the dowels, perhaps some larger and or more dowels would help. But mainly, I'm not even sure if it would be considered a wrinkle, but I'd stretch the fabric over nice and tight, move over to the next side and keep going, then towards the end (last section that needs to be pulled), I'd have some excess and no matter how hard you pull back it would have a fold in the fabric. I would try going around again and spread out the excess fabric but then instead of one big fold, I'd end up with several smaller folds. I could cut the fold then wrap one side over the other, making a nice flush surface, but I've never seen anyone else run into this problem I made this the other day: No folds, no issues, I'm guessing because the baffle was larger, not circular, and because the fabric was only being pulled back a few inches before it was glued down. I actually did use a rasp when it began to harden, sanded down for a bit, then laid a little more filler over some big spots, then did my final sanding. I probably should have continued adding filler to all the small imperfections at that point and sanded again. For the last week I've been glassing from 6am to 6pm just trying to get better, I should have been more patient towards the end heh. Would you say the rage gold is the way to go? Any other thoughts or tips would be appreciated.

I wish I could hear your truck!

You should see the two other pods I started and threw away bahaha. I was gonna run down to ace for some clay and install tonight, checked store hours, they were closing in five minutes, what luck lol.

Most oem alternators supply enough amperage to run the cars electrical needs and slightly more. "Slightly more" not being 70amperes+ Voltage drops like crazy, amplifier heats up real quick, hot to the touch, just imagine the inside...and poof!

I'm definitely up for buying quality stuff I've seen a lot of people using us composites for resin, http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html 404 Tooling Polyester Resin-Isophthalic, 435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin (Marine Grade Resin), EB General Purpose Polyester Resin, and so forth. I'm guessing the 435 or eb general purpose would do?

Why no mat ? It's simple to add and it's what provides the strength. I've always used mat, just wasn't sure why I was finding all these videos of people using mat on door panels but not kick panels, made no sense, thought I'd ask. The fabric was a bitch, tons of wrinkles, but enough fiberglass mat toned it down, sanded like hell, and used slightly more bondo then normal. Still has a lot of inperfections but I'm going to layer the inside with clay tomorrow and install. If it sounds good I'll be taking them back out for more sanding. Probably add some more resin in the inside in case I missed anywhere, like the white wrinkled spot

Glad it's for a good reason though, can't wait to see more.

Good demo vid!

Got both kick panels glassed, far from perfect, but some sanding and a little body filler and they should turn out okay Never have I been so pissed off trying to do something, I swear if a neighbor would have walked by and said "Hi", I probably would have chased them down the block Time to get more supplies to fuel the rage, and get lunch, err breakfast too...

Got the floorboard / kick panel area fiberglassed for a base, should be dry in 45 minutes then I can start smoothing it out. Has anyone else seen kickpanels/pods done with fabric coated in resin and body filler, but no fiberglass mat?

Happy Birthday!

Likely help with workouts, but generally more testosterone leads to quick temper and so forth.

Couldn't get the fabric properly wrapped, ended up using tape and cardboard so give some "support" for the fiberglass to stick. At least in the morning I'll have something to work with. I'll likely start over from glassing the floor area. Well see...

And thank you Dash can be a beyotch processing wise with the reflections. Then add separation on the two drivers and a minimal crossover at best and I am for kicks all the way with those. Try to open up the area behind the mid as much as possible so it can "breath" Started the kicks, man is it a bitch to wrap the fabric around without getting overlayed. I used part of the stock plastic that goes up the side. I think in the morning I'm going to lay down some foil and make a base from the floor, cut it nice and smooth, round off any edges, and hopefully have some better luck. Also saw some youtube videos where people only used cloth, resin, and body filler, no fiberglass mat. Also saw a few people using laser pointers to help aim the drivers

Making me jealous, my turn. Im sitting in an empty theater about to watch new planet of the apes movie

And thank you