ssh

Bigger box would probably yield more output

XS Power, Because It Matters. XS Power, Providing The Power You Need. XS Power, Play Longer, Play Louder. (audio segment of company) XS Power, Feel The Power.

Then turn the ssf down a little and pay attention to it

I know what your saying, but I don't know if you turned the dial exactly to the center if it would actually be 32.5hz. I just know I use the above voltage*0.707 to get around my crossover point, then sometimes adjust it a little one way or another by ear and watching cone excursion. For lpf, I believe you would turn it fully clockwise, play a tone that you want to cross the filter at, say 70hz. Write down that voltage then multiply by 0.707 Then lower (turn counterclockwise) until it matches the voltage*0.707 When setting these filters, don't set the volume near your max listening, you don't want to make your subwoofer play a 70hz tone at full tilt, or a 30hz tone at full tilt. Just make sure whatever volume you use, that it doesn't change between adjusting the filters.

Sweet, hope its ready for the show

Well most monoblock amplifiers used for bass don't go anywhere near that high... And having it adjusted at 100hz verse 80hz verse 60hz, etc is noticeable. It's all preference on how high you cross it, but I know for me I like it crossed around mid 50 or it doesn't sound good to my ears.

Confused. Yeah the dials on the amps for settings are pots, and they vary impedance when adjusted, but the lpf on his amp probably only goes to 300hz...

100hz is pretty high

Volume on hu is immaterial. Just don't change volume between testing

Disconnect speaker. play a 30hz tone with ssf counter clockwise. Write down voltage using dmm on output terminals on amp. Multiply voltage by 0.707 Now turn up ssf until numbers matches the above. This should get you close.

OP, you are truly unbelievable. Every single question you ask that you need help with, you disregard all responses and simply say "Oh well I'm going to do it any ways." You have this mentality in your head that more drivers, more cone area, more motor force WILL always equate to more output. Though I agree that I like to use as much cone area as possible and less power, there are constraints. In your case, a trunk, and volume requirements. Say you manage to squeeze out every last bit of space in your vehicle and you end up doing 12cubes, or 17cubes. Will you still have enough room for your batteries and amps? Will their be enough room for the drivers to properly unload? Will their be enough room for the bass to enter the cabin? Or is it going to be choked off because your box is only 3" below the roof of your trunk? As stated above, it sounds like you have the room to use a big efficient box for 4 12"s, you'd have the room for all your batteries and amps, space for the drivers to unload and for the bass to easily enter the cabin. It's not like I'm trying to talk you down because I don't want you to be louder then me... If you still decide the need to do 15s, draw an outline of the box, and post how close the height of the box is to the trunk roof and cabin entrance.

More branching out, I like it. Curious to see pictures down the road

Your right, some of my statement is speculation. But the facts are: Stock case ratings were measured cold loses 5-10% once hot (as do other alts, but just depends where they rate it at to begin with) uses a smaller pulley (which may not be a bad thing) ^This was all gathered from speaking to the company. So it is pretty damn safe to assume that in order for their alternator to make anywhere near the power it is, that they are rewound. When you get your alt installed, post up the amperage numbers from engine idle and 3500rpm or what ever, and show me wrong if you would like... Just trying to help the OP before he makes a purchase one way or another.

Yeah I kinda already posted about that specific alt on smd, didn't feel like retyping everything. I also know they rate their alts cold and lose 5-10% once hot, just something to keep in mind. And It's probably rewired so max output almost doubles and idle drops like a bag of bricks. As far as reliability, ehh, wouldn't want to be stranded on the side of the road

The alt he is referring to from quality power is a modified stock alt...

You do realize we're trying to help you, right? There are much better options to achieving your goals. But if you would rather go about it entirely the wrong way, good luck with that. This is from the other day: He likes to ask for advice, ignore it, and do what he thinks best.

Looks great, really fits the door well

Yikes, what is your impedence at 40hz? Almost 4ohms, impedance is highest at peak. My vehicle peaks around 39-40hz so thats also why it's higher.

Happy Birthday!

It was a joke.

on lower power, but wouldn't that become nonexistent after the increase in power being sent to it? (assuming you're putting a larger amount than what the 3" is rated at) Perhaps if you thought about it as a cpu, you can overclock it so it's faster but it'll also be hotter, but if you can keep it cool enough then it'll handle being overclocked.

Well they ate that shit up like it was breakfast. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/109050-do-work/ Found the shittiest picture of a old pick up that I could find. Even has flat tires. I suggest mixing drivers for different bass frequencies, they suggest using separate boxes but no one mentions that the idea of using the 12s for low lows and 10s for the higher region as a bad idea. No one questions a box with 45" depth. No advice was given about electrical. But DC SUBS FOR THE WIN, ALL THAT MATTERS

Coming out great. I need to start buying some wood working tools

Saw that the thread was starting to go downhill... I can giv halp? Thanks man, I appreciate it. I would have asked for help here on ssa, but no one here does really big builds. Know what I mean? Yeah bro I feel ya. Some people are just flat out better at building shit than others. SMD is the place to go for big builds like that. Yeah thanks