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Sweet! The interiors are so nice. New build log in the future?

I see what you mean how the cone looks, basket looks cheap to me. I like inverted dustcaps, then I get sick of them and like regular style, and back and forth I also like the carbon fiber looking dustcaps from psi / fix my speaker, but I'll never buy any of their products...

It looks good, should be fine.

I'm gonna cancel it if it doesn't get shipped by tommorrow and order it from 1800woofers. A lot of products SSA sells are drop shipped, or they get it from the manufacturer then ship it out to you. 1800woofers is likely in the same boat... yea but i've been seeing a bunch of people complaining about SSA shipping being slow If sundown is running behind on shipping out their products, how is it SSA's fault? (I could be wrong, but I believe Sundown is extremely busy and running a little behind on getting stuff out) x2 and dont order from 1800woofers. lol. go through wooferetc or something. lots of places deal with sundown, so if its sundown that is the bottle neck then dont go postin threads doggin SSA's shipping man. you dont even know if its their fault. Yeah I didn't really want to bad mouth or mention 1800woofers, but the owner Kevin, he's still learning the ropes for running a business.........

I'm gonna cancel it if it doesn't get shipped by tommorrow and order it from 1800woofers. A lot of products SSA sells are drop shipped, or they get it from the manufacturer then ship it out to you. 1800woofers is likely in the same boat... yea but i've been seeing a bunch of people complaining about SSA shipping being slow If sundown is running behind on shipping out their products, how is it SSA's fault? (I could be wrong, but I believe Sundown is extremely busy and running a little behind on getting stuff out)

I'm gonna cancel it if it doesn't get shipped by tommorrow and order it from 1800woofers. A lot of products SSA sells are drop shipped, or they get it from the manufacturer then ship it out to you. 1800woofers is likely in the same boat...

Be patient man, or cancel your order if your not happy. Honestly though, it's worth the wait.

Damn, lots and lots of ring terminals FTW. Bet it took you a few good minutes setting all those up haha.

Checking in

Email Mark, he has them. Will do. Thanks

Got any team ssa stickers in stock? Small size?

I'd just go with some dcons or fi x's, well worth the money, won't disappoint

Most regulators are set to 14.4v, that is standard. Most high output alternators are set around 15v, they deem that's the highest they can safely go on standard 12v system. Or you can do vcms and adjust it and what not, but that's really pointless unless serious competing.

Bummer.

OP's amp has a operating voltage of 10v-16v. So no, it will not go into protect with 15v. Charging a 12v battery at 15v-15.5v, not sure if it lessens the batteries life span. That would be a good question for the battery manufacturer. I'd get xs power batts and then just ask Nathan

Just keep charging your batteries until you get the DC alt in. Will do for sure!! do dc alts run voltage at like 14.4 or 14.8? it would be legit to sit that high instead of 12.7 I can only imagine!! It'll probably sit around 15v-15.5v depending on temp and what not. I know when it was cold in the morning mine would be around 15.5v, but even when it was hot, 100 degrees outside driving for a few hours AND a saz1500d at full tilt, my voltage was in the high 14s. Obviously depends on which model you get, but you get the idea Holy grandma! 15v possibly!! NICE, I would love to sit in the 14's at full tilt ( PRO 210, 100 at idle ). I wanted to demo the other day after I installed the new batt and voltmeter in.. and I hit a 10.9.. EW turned off sub immediately and decided sub on "LOW" til new alt.. 11v is bad to me, even 12s don't make my day considering it's draining the battery lol. In my last build I had a regular deep cycle starting battery and a dc alt, no extra batteries. Voltage was fine but I had some headlight dimming and people kept trying to tell me my alt was bad and I needed more batteries. Headlight dimming was caused by voltage fluctuation, from 15v to 14v (not bad). I was just planning on putting in some HIDs any ways... Nice thing about HIDs, they use a ballast and aren't affected by voltage fluctuation

Just use the 4gauge you got now, and later when you can afford it add some 1/0gauge. 4gauge wire can actually handle a few amount of amperage in short runs Ok awesome! Just wanted to make sure before I fried my car or something on accident! Ill def. replace with 1/0 soon after to provide better flow throughout my car. Yeah it's a good idea to use the bigger wire, less resistance. But a 2foot length of 4gauge can handle upwards of 250amps. So your short runs of 4gauge are already good enough for your current amp and what not.

Just keep charging your batteries until you get the DC alt in. Will do for sure!! do dc alts run voltage at like 14.4 or 14.8? it would be legit to sit that high instead of 12.7 I can only imagine!! It'll probably sit around 15v-15.5v depending on temp and what not. I know when it was cold in the morning mine would be around 15.5v, but even when it was hot, 100 degrees outside driving for a few hours AND a saz1500d at full tilt, my voltage was in the high 14s. Obviously depends on which model you get, but you get the idea

Just use the 4gauge you got now, and later when you can afford it add some 1/0gauge. 4gauge wire can actually handle a few amount of amperage in short runs

Just keep charging your batteries until you get the DC alt in.

Was the voice coil burnt? spiders / tinsel leads torn?

Your stock alt isn't producing enough power to charge your battery(s) and run your electrical equipment, computer ecu, ac, lights, etc. So the battery has to kick in and help run everything, so it's slowly being discharged, and hardly/rarely being charged from the alt.

Just get the DC alt. It will fix all your problems. It's internally regulated, probably come with a bypass harness skipping the computers ecu. It's simple to install and setup. It will come with everything you need.

Resting voltage for battery? Sounds like your stock alt is just old and worn, not working like it use to. Wear and Tear man.

I'd have the car idling and put a dmm directly on the battery posts on the main start battery, make sure that voltage is the same as your lcd meter is reading. If it is, your stock alt sucks. Not a big surprise, temperature and rpm will cause it to fluctuate. There might be a possibility of your voltage regulator going bad if it sporadically goes up for a few minutes and goes back down with no heavy loads... Mine as well just get a h/o alt instead of replacing with new stock alt... Weren't you planning on getting a dc alt?