ssh

Power handling isn't the only thing to look at for a tweeter, look at the sensitivity as well.

You blew it? Try switching speaker wires on terminals. If the left speaker plays, your amp is goofy or have a bad left signal. If it doesn't play, it's toast

i hope so, once i buy the truck i will start a build log and everyone can oogle in awh hahah. I got my lotion ready

The two sets of speaker terminals on the saz model amps are internally bridged, meaning you can use any, just there for flexibility.

Why don't you have argent audio on here build you one? He does awesome work and is very affordable.

Honestly, if you have the room to do a ported enclosure I would do that over a sealed box. Tune around 30hz and youll love it. Why would you say that (not saying your wrong I just want to learn). I thought that since I wanted low AND highs that a sealed would allow for a more flat response in the higher frequencies? A sealed enclosure would give a flatter response, but ported would have a lot more output and low tuning would allow you to play the lows and highs. Higher tuning would be more peaky. I tuned to 33hz in my last enclosure and the response wasn't peaky at all. Also depends on cabin characteristics So even though its tuned to 32hz, it still plays the upper frequency? Higher tuning and you lose the low end but gain on the higher end. Low tuning, you can play the lows and highs but the highs wont have as much of a boost compared to the higher tuning. I would tune low, be able to play everything like a sealed box yet still have more output then sealed. Even tuning in the high 20s would give you more output then sealed box

Honestly, if you have the room to do a ported enclosure I would do that over a sealed box. Tune around 30hz and youll love it. Why would you say that (not saying your wrong I just want to learn). I thought that since I wanted low AND highs that a sealed would allow for a more flat response in the higher frequencies? A sealed enclosure would give a flatter response, but ported would have a lot more output and low tuning would allow you to play the lows and highs. Higher tuning would be more peaky. I tuned to 33hz in my last enclosure and the response wasn't peaky at all. Also depends on cabin characteristics

Honestly, if you have the room to do a ported enclosure I would do that over a sealed box. Tune around 30hz and youll love it.

Jl isnt china chink crap, but it is expensive.

I can't give you specifics or any in depth answer as to how much sq or spl you'd gain/lose from one driver to the other. But I can say, I've heard the w7s, and I've personally owned a BL and used it in a traditional ported enclosure (tuning 33hz), and the BL sounded just as well as the w7. Can't compare output because the w7 was a 8" and the BL was a 18" I know if the choice was mine, I'd pick the bl up. Another driver to consider is the xcon, it's aimed for SQ over spl, but has the ability to get very loud.

Looking good

So what modeling software do you recommend? Any tips or how to's, to go along with that? I know a quite a bit of people use WinISD, not sure if it will work in this application tho.

Don't bring up old threads...

+'s?? Like what? sshh, you weren't supposed to ask that

So you're saying no run of 0 gauge, from the battery to the amp should be longer than 5 ft? i dont see that happening in very many installs at all. Perhaps if we all drove mini-coopers or smart cars. Or if you add a battery in the rear then it breaks up the average run length and therefore the run is under 5ft tops to the amp? ^Not saying there is anything wrong with this, cause there isn't. but the idea that a power cable to an amp has to be under 5 feet is completely stupid. How do you manage to get power from your alt to your batteries and then to your amps in under 5ft?

just a good rule of thumb, 12-16 square inches per cubic foot. I personally always like to be on the bigger side so you don't end up with any port noise (chuffing sound)

Your going to need the alternator, so get it first.

If you have a signal that's 50V peak, run a sine wave and then a square wave at that same peak voltage into a 1ohm load you'll have average power of (50*.707)^2/1 = 1250w with the sine wave but 50^2/1 = 2500w with the square wave. Both signals will be within the rail voltage of the amplifier. The peak voltage of the signal hasn't changed, but the average power of the signal has increased significantly with the square wave. I guess my point is.....even if you take the same amplifier and run the same peak signal voltage for a sine wave and square wave through it.....the square wave will have significantly more average power than the sine wave even though the peak voltage of the signal hasn't changed (and hence both signals are within the rails of the amp). That 1000w amplifier is a 1000w amplifier with a sine wave, not a square wave. Average power will increase with the square wave, which leads to the build up of heat. Granted you may hit current or power supply limitations which will not allow the amplifier to output a full 2500w continuously.....but you'll be at the limits of the amplifier, which will result in an increase in average power with a square wave compared to a sine wave with the same amplifier, same peak voltage, within the rail voltages of the amplifier. If you are going to do a normalized average power comparison, which is what we are trying to compare, you have to reduce the peak voltage of the square wave so that both the sine wave and square wave have the same RMS voltage, which would give both signals equivalent average power. So a 50V peak sine wave would have an RMS voltage of 35.35V. The square wave would need to be reduced to a level of 35.35V for an equal average power comparison. So a square wave wouldn't hit the peak 50V and stay there, because it would peak at 35.35V. Only the sine wave would peak at 50V. This is what Sean, 95Honda and myself are arguing. With the same average power (i.e. the same RMS voltage, not peak voltage), there won't be a significant difference in heat and/or failure time within the driver. We can't just talk in terms of voltage alone, we have to differentiate between peak and RMS signal voltage, because that dramatically affects the average power of the signal. And you aren't going to make this comparison by only flipping the signal generator between sine and square wave, as the peak and RMS voltages of the signal would need to be adjusted to properly compare average power. I was thinking about something else on my morning drive......the square wave assumes essentially an instantaneous change in voltage level. If the signal is 5V peak to peak, the signal has a 10V swing in level with virtually zero change along the y-axis of time. Loudspeakers have inductance and energy storage......I would imagine there has to be some sort of "lag" present in the driver's ability to respond to an instantaneous change in voltage like that. The driver isn't going to be able to respond instantaneously and go from a position of +5V to -5V in almost literally no time. That's almost exactly what inductance describes...the ability of the driver to respond to a change in voltage. So I wonder how much "rounding" of the square wave there is in the actual response of the loudspeaker to the signal, as this would affect (reduce) the amount of time the driver was actually at the plateau of square wave, which would reduce the amount of heat build up you are suggesting occurs. By the time the speaker finally gets up there to the plateau of the square wave, the signal is turning around heading back down in the other direction, so the speaker turns around and follows it back down (obviously overly simplified). I wonder if it would almost "track" the same path as a sine wave due to the inductance induced lag. You're the speaker engineer Nick What do you think? Wow, great post. I could somewhat understand both sides, but after reading that, I fully understand both arguments. It still seems even if the drivers response to a square wave could have some lag and round out the edges, that this cycle would be happening to so many times, so fastly (sp?) that it would all still add up and cook the coil much quicker then a sine wave.

based on what? the look? Don't make assumptions, period.

no problem, just try and keep your drug references to yourself

yeah theres not alot of space but a ssa dcon 10 will fit fine, im just afraid it will be all bass and no vocals since its only one pair of speakers . should i put another pair of speakers in also I would say try a single pair and go from there, but I doubt the dcon will drown your mids and highs, it should blend in well.

I'm guessing your on a budget since your looking at a hifonics amp? You don't need 2kw to properly power a btl, just a thing to keep in mind. I would always buy quality used products before new mediocre stuff. Your stock electrical isn't going to support a true 1500watt rms amplifier, adding a few batteries will help, but isn't a solid fix, sure you could play at full tilt for a few minutes draining your batteries all the time, then turn it down while your alt tries to keep up and recharge everything? I'd get an aftermarket alt, don't have to get anything super gonzo if your budget doesn't allow for it. Capacitors are worthless in car audio, don't hold big enough charge to mean a damn, just another thing that discharges and requires charging (all the time). Not sure how big of a system you could have if you don't know what a ported enclosure is... The reason for putting a subwoofer in a box is to separate the soundwaves so they don't cancel each other out. So a sealed enclosure "traps" the backwave into the box, and the output you hear is just the "front wave". Ported enclosure, allows for the backwave to be added to the "front wave" without cancellation. So you can theoretically get double the output if done correctly. The lower the tuning on a ported enclosure, the louder the bottom end will be. Tune higher and the higher tones will be louder, but you'll lose the bottom end. I'm no acoustic engineer so my terms and wording could be off a little, but you get the general idea.

Hi Guys, Bought a 270xp alt from you guys for a 4.0L 1997 jeep wrangler, sold the jeep, got a 2002 volvo v40 wagon, 1.9L inline 4. Do you guys have cases that fit the volvo? Can I send my alt in and get that switched out? How much? Thank you, Stefan Talked to Stan, this thread can be closed. Thank you.

your box is tuned to 37hz? How about you build a new box and drop tuning to 30hz with lots of port area.

Never had any issues with them myself, glad to hear they're taken care of you.