ssh

It should sit around 15v, depending on load, engine rpm, hot vs cold weather. My 270xp sits at 15.xxV and with a saz1500d at full tilt at IDLE, say 14.xxV You'll be happy,

i guess ill have to try to sew some carpet on there Don't do it on my behalf, I'm just being a schmuck

Where in AZ do you live? phx?

Sorry I misread and thought you were going to run each driver individually for the purposes of finding out which one was making the "rattling noise". If there wired correctly to begin with, then rewiring each driver to the amp will do nothing. Got any pictures of your box?

Sweet, I love how the flames look like there part of the arm/skin. Wish I was talented and able to draw like that.

lulz. No one knows what every setup will sound like. If they did, there wouldn't be any competitions. Installation can make/break the end result. You can swap out the same equipment from vehicle A to vehicle B, with significant output increase or decrease... Next, I don't know what your definition of "hit pretty hard" is. When I first heard a bass car, it had two lower line rockford 12"s and 300watts, I was giggling from the bass, thought it was awesome. Six months later I got a nice setup and got use to it. Jumping back in my friends car with the RF 12s, couldn't really tell there was bass. Point is, depends what your use to hearing. Might do 138db at the headrest, might do 135, maybe 142, maybe 136, or even 143... who knows. Sorry if I sound harsh, but it's the truth. Don't forget to post a build log! LOL... It was kinda a rhetorical question... I figure it would be decent... I remember how impressed I was with my buddies system back in 94... he had two crappy 10" Kenwood subs, crappy kenwood amp... and a jvc tape deck... LOL... I think that setup did like 135 when he had it measured... he had the two 10's in a big sealed box... lol Thanks for all of the input though! Have you had any previous setups? What were they like? ever meter them? ever been to a comp? Yeah... I have had a system... last system was two 12" Crystal CMP's (sealed)... on a JBL 1200.1 I had JL Audio 5.25 TR series coaxials... and JL TR series 6x9's... JBL 50.4 (I think that was the amp)... car was deadened with brown bread... all in a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix... Alpine 9835 HU... 6 inch LCD's in the headrests... and passenger visor!Never measured it... never competed... but it bumped nicely! My new set up will be: 2 - 12" SA 12's SAZ 1000d SAX 100.4 CDT Audio CL 69 6x9's CDT Audio 6.5 inch (will be HD series) Will have to leave stock headunit in the 2011 Dodge Charger... due to all of the functions... will prob add a JL Audio Clean Sweep... Sounds like your new car is gonna be pretty awesome. Looking forward to the build log, 2011 charger...

you could tell if the rattling noise goes away, then the other driver is faulty.

Post pictures so we can get a better understanding. How big were these leaks and cracks you filled with great stuff?

Might get electrocuted in the process. I love the custom fabrications to the rear head rests. best part imo.

lulz. No one knows what every setup will sound like. If they did, there wouldn't be any competitions. Installation can make/break the end result. You can swap out the same equipment from vehicle A to vehicle B, with significant output increase or decrease... Next, I don't know what your definition of "hit pretty hard" is. When I first heard a bass car, it had two lower line rockford 12"s and 300watts, I was giggling from the bass, thought it was awesome. Six months later I got a nice setup and got use to it. Jumping back in my friends car with the RF 12s, couldn't really tell there was bass. Point is, depends what your use to hearing. Might do 138db at the headrest, might do 135, maybe 142, maybe 136, or even 143... who knows. Sorry if I sound harsh, but it's the truth. Don't forget to post a build log! LOL... It was kinda a rhetorical question... I figure it would be decent... I remember how impressed I was with my buddies system back in 94... he had two crappy 10" Kenwood subs, crappy kenwood amp... and a jvc tape deck... LOL... I think that setup did like 135 when he had it measured... he had the two 10's in a big sealed box... lol Thanks for all of the input though! Have you had any previous setups? What were they like? ever meter them? ever been to a comp?

Welcome to the forum man. Glad you joined just in time to post your new build log Pictures + Videos = FTW

Welcome noob, Seriously though, welcome to SSA. Got any pictures of your work? I like tats. and tits...

lulz. No one knows what every setup will sound like. If they did, there wouldn't be any competitions. Installation can make/break the end result. You can swap out the same equipment from vehicle A to vehicle B, with significant output increase or decrease... Next, I don't know what your definition of "hit pretty hard" is. When I first heard a bass car, it had two lower line rockford 12"s and 300watts, I was giggling from the bass, thought it was awesome. Six months later I got a nice setup and got use to it. Jumping back in my friends car with the RF 12s, couldn't really tell there was bass. Point is, depends what your use to hearing. Might do 138db at the headrest, might do 135, maybe 142, maybe 136, or even 143... who knows. Sorry if I sound harsh, but it's the truth. Don't forget to post a build log!

This is awesome. The pictures were EXACTLY as expected. FTW Rock on bro! At least he doesn't have to worry about anyone stealing his stuff...

With that amount of volume, sealed is a good idea And you'll have more trunk space.

Why? Why does it need rated power plus 400watts per driver? No such thing as under powering being a bad thing. Consider the drivers being overkill for the amp, and not the drivers being under powered...

I would make the biggest box you can that leaves you with enough trunk space you want. Biggest being 3.5cubes to 3cubes NET. Bigger the box, better efficiency, likely a little more output. remember a SPL orientated setup is not the same as "getting as loud as possible in a daily driver". Smaller box = increased power handling (great for short burps with tons of power), and tuning higher would lessen the lows output and boost the higher range. So I would go with better efficiency by going with the biggest box you can fit while still maintaining enough trunk space. Tuning is personal preference, I like 33hz... And don't forget driver displacement, port displacement, and bracing displacement when calculating net volume.

No problem man, Glad to hear business is good.

up to par with a stock BTL or BL? Either way, no it will not have the same spl, but likely better SQ if installed correctly.

The signal changes from a sine wave to a square wave, when the signal is being played and reaches peaks it stays there a bit longer since it's square (cut off). While it sits at the peak for this millisecond or what ever, the voice coil isn't getting cooled This is all happening incredibly fast and heats up the voice coil. But it doesn't mean it can actually harm the speaker, just depends on the signal amplitude, amount of clipping, and length played. The amplitude of a square wave is 1.414 times a sine wave. So if your signal was being amplified to 1000watts cleanly, it could theoretically be max clipped with an output of 1414watts (along with less heat dissipation). A lot of people could argue that they can run 1500watts to their 1000watt rated driver with no issues, yet with max clipping they could burn up the voice coils in 5 minutes. It's not the extra 414watts (don't get me wrong, it helps warm things up) but the killer is the voice coil's cooling going out the window...

Put a DMM on one set of coils on a driver, if it reads close to 1.8ohms then it's D2. Close being within .1

Mine as well use particle board

You should buy three in spite of the above post. So how's that Sundown Audio SA-12 d2 I sold you off of CA.com a while back doing? I don't know I never powered it Inspected it, everything looked good then it sat in the box for about a month and I sold it locally. Plans changed so I didn't need it. Funny thing is, when I first got into car audio it was THE driver I wanted... It was nice however to hold one in person, looked well built.

You should buy three in spite of the above post.

Yes you can connect the second alt to where the first alt connects to your batteries (whether it be your front battery or all the way to the rear). I would run a few strands of 0gauge from the alts to the batteries though. If your running multiple alts, your likely running large amp(s) and pulling massive current, thus needing more wire for carrying current.