ssh

I'm pretty sure it would, I remember reading somewhere someone did a test with the rear seats up vs folded down in a trunk setup, I believe there was a 3db difference. But every vehicle and design is different and therefore will yield different results. But it's probably safe to assume, a btl 15" is going to give him more bass then a say a 12" btl, if enclosure volume and tuning is correct.

When you say old school vs new school? Could you explain that? Difference in just looks or is it performance? Will the "old school" be able to handle that 15v adapter? Just curious as I will be saving next 2 checks for this puppy... I think Rob is referring to newer designs allowing more power and more costly, verse older designs less power and cheaper. not good or bad, just depends on the power you need and the size of your wallet

I would throw an extra battery in the back and go from there.

Whats your stock alt specs? Is the 3100d your starting battery or additional battery? What was your voltage drop at full tilt on previous setups? What were your previous setups?

But you are. JK There's a prop in az for medicinal legalization (as CA currently is) currently. Very curious to see the outcome. Misinformation about marijuana sure doesn't help the cause. Ignorance is a bitch.

well i have the big 3 upgrade with all 0 ga and when i get the new amp ill be replacing my 4 ga that i have running to my amp in the trunk with all 0 ga The big 3 helps the flow of power from A to B, it doesn't however add power. So you still have a stock electrical. Due to your drivers dcr, you can either wire it to 0.5 or 2ohms. 0.5 is a bad choice unless you know what your doing, and you clearly do not or you wouldn't be asking. I'm assuming this is your daily vehicle, playing music, etc. So your gonna want to wire it to 2ohms. As several have stated, look for an amp that makes 1000-1500watts at 2ohms. If you do get the kicker zx1500, your going to need an inline ssf (check out fmods).

You can get an Early ballot and submit by mail. Honestly if you don't vote, your lazy or just don't care that much.

It is called not knowing any better, and simply being a lemming and doing exactly what the manufacturer that really makes them says. It's simply not understanding how an amplifier works..in conjunction with a speaker. When you start to drop an amp below 1ohm more heat is being built up because the power supply and output portion of things of the amplifier simply cannot handle the demand that the output stage is wanting to get. When you do not have a subsonic filter...or one that is set improperly...you then start to make this thing that you've just microwaved move... You are slamming the gates open/closed on the output transistors at 90+% duty cycle, which is absolutely asinine and they freak out. Take a can of coke, pop the top open and bend it back and forth a few millimeters...within it's mechanical limitations that tab will never break. Now if you start to bend it past its mechanical limitations is when you start to get into trouble. This is where the subsonic filter comes in and making sure that you are not playing full power below port tuning frequency of a sub. If you already have something that's hot from running it hard on one of the Korean amps and you start yanking the soft parts past their mechanical limitations more and more heat builds up... You get to the point where so much heat builds up that the spiders start smoldering...they won't catch on fire until you've clipped the signal to death, vaporized all of the flame retardant spray that the spiders are soaked in and then it smokes. (square wave form, dc voltage out of the amp because the power supply cannot handle what you are doing to it) It's not the sub, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running those leads like they are. What's going on is an issue of the big cheap Korean amplifiers in and of themselves...and total ill-regard to what a microwave and conductive material does. Hope this helps you understand...if you run a Crown A6000Gti you'll never have a problem...because it's an A/B amp....the other stuff that is cheap...don't run it below 1ohm or you are going to have nothing but problems because in order to get that big power cheaply and cut out on the parts that are going into the amplifier the switching frequency of the power supply must be ramped way up...in turn microwaving woofer parts. Yes, that is true, I think, that little which amp can work on on .5 ohm, daily. I think if you have a daily sub in daily(big) box, you have a very big box impedance rise, which mean that if you want more efficiency from amp ( without clipping, buy sub with dual 1 ohm wire and wire down to .5 ohm, because in real life you got 2ohm impedance or more, thats the point of this quote. I don't know for woofer box without impedance rise. So..after I explain why to not do something...you continue to say let's do it? The last thing on your mind in a daily driving install should be impedance rise...in a musical application it simply does not matter! SPL burping is another scenario. Unless you want to invest heavily in recones...I'm telling you do NOT do it. It's sad, someone with such experience and knowledge in the field and yet people continue to ignore you. But hey, they pay the price in the end

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One 0gauge input for power and one 0gauge input for ground. Which is fine, you can always run 2/0 or two strands of 0gauge into a reducer...

Sounds good lpf could be set a little higher, but if you have midbass drivers picking up the rest after 60 then I'd say it's good where it's at.

There's more to tuning then setting the gain.

Did you tune the ssf, and lpf by ear as well? lol

I got a couple sa12s sitting in my room for my next build too Looks like sundown getting all the love.

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*throws up in mouth* Depends on your needs, goals, power, etc. I'd never use something that thin, but I know bassheads who will disagree. Different goals. They don't list the thickness...You could send them an email and ask. the port can be trimmed to change tuned frequency (nice addition, not just tuned at 45hz and there you go). Edit after further reading, I think that box is good for a low powered subwoofer, but an Icon on a 1000watts is gonna tear that apart. HUGE problem with that box. It is 1.25cuft which is enough for a SEALED Icon. No way, no how will anything sound good in it. If you have to use it, seal the port and call it sealed. Port tuning is also seriously shit in that enclosure and not made for a "real" sub. It won't get torn apart if it is truly mdf, but I still don't recommend it for anything I'd own. Doubt the box has any bracing, I guess if the glue used is decent enough...

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They don't list the thickness...You could send them an email and ask. the port can be trimmed to change tuned frequency (nice addition, not just tuned at 45hz and there you go). Edit after further reading, I think that box is good for a low powered subwoofer, but an Icon on a 1000watts is gonna tear that apart.

Thank you for starting this thread, it's made me very happy I have faith in our country.

Big 3 helps lower voltage drop, but it doesn't magically increase the alternators amperage rating. Not really. Most stock alts make just enough power to run your lights, ecu, ac, and charge your battery, adding say a 1000watt monoblock with awesome efficiency your looking at an additional ~70amps... Expect bad voltage drop, and increased heat & stress on amp... Bad combination.

sa12s are orientated towards ported, not the best driver for sealed, at least from everything I've read and heard from Jacob.