ssh

I'm not following you?

How so?

Bandpass enclosures are sealed behind the driver (At least that's what I think), this would be ported. As far as mounting the drivers, build bottom and sides of enclosure, leave top panel off, install first baffle in enclosure, mount drivers on that baffle, put next set of drivers on next baffle, then install second baffle, then install top panel. The only down side is you don't have access to the drivers once installed, if you need them out, time to cut open box... I guess I could make the top panel screw only and not use glue, but that wouldn't seal very well or be very strong, plus I'd have dowels in between for bracing... Hm many you could make some sort of access panle to reach the subs. And the band pass you mentioned is a 4th order, there are many diferent kinds of band pass designs like 6th or 8th order. I thing your slightly resembles an 8th order. Well I'd like the box to be as strong as possible, so less openings the better. As for the bandpass and orders, learn something new everyday

DC Power flexing it's muscle New machine is pretty awesome for more measuring everything. max output 4.7kw All the possibilities... mmm

You could say that... that build is on a slightly larger scale

Yeah I would have to measure how much space I could do for the gap, but it would look cool to see the motors, and it wouldn't be some ghetto shit with the subs inverted on top of the box. I'll wait on others to chime in respectively on the general idea before I figure out all the measurements.

If you don't have a warranty, then you don't have anything to lose if you open it... I'm sure somethings burnt up...

x2 It's a business, not a charity group. There being nice as is.

Bandpass enclosures are sealed behind the driver (At least that's what I think), this would be ported. As far as mounting the drivers, build bottom and sides of enclosure, leave top panel off, install first baffle in enclosure, mount drivers on that baffle, put next set of drivers on next baffle, then install second baffle, then install top panel. The only down side is you don't have access to the drivers once installed, if you need them out, time to cut open box... I guess I could make the top panel screw only and not use glue, but that wouldn't seal very well or be very strong, plus I'd have dowels in between for bracing...

Yeah he kinda ignored my questions about that... lol

2door '97 jeep wrangler (hard top). No rear bench seat. Not doing a wall. My plan is four SA12's, but the above design would be the same, just two more drivers horizontally.

My options are either this, or down firing with a 3-4" gap Doing this would lower the overall box height which would be very nice for my case.

Simple answer: Will the saz1500d match up nicely with the Qs? Yes. You may be able to find a used saz2000d for sale. or a new saz2500d.

Nice find, I always just use a triangular grip on my vice.

What type of design would this be considered? Would it have any disadvantages to a regular ported enclosure? Drivers would be mounted during the enclosure being built. Is there any negative effects by having the drivers facing each other? any cancellation? What would be a good distance to have between the opposing cones? The more the better? Thanks

Not trying to be the salesman But I have one of these laying around that I need to get rid of

I'd pick a Fi product over any dc soundlab product. Hard to get an answer tho when you have no goals lol.

The rear seats fold do fold down. But i do not want to lose my rear seats. If I am taking this wrong please let me know. It is the very first time someone has asked me if they fold down. I want the box to be restricted to the trunk only. As for looking at the tech section, yes I have. I have practically studied the box sizes for all the woofer combinations I am asking about and it seems that they will all fit. The only thing left to do is to actually make mock boxes from say cardboard or something and see if they fit in. Without crippling the cardboard of course, and I will be doing this, hopefully soon, if so tomorrow. he was wondering if the opening (behind your rear seats) is big enough to fit/slide the box through Yes.

Waiting on the close up shots

Were the older baskets even black? Or did he just get a fi dustcap and magnet boot...

When I read the title I was getting ready to laugh... But it actually looks really good

WHAT? Two systems I've seen at school, people used lamp cord for their power and grounds on their 1200max output 300rms amps.

The gain is used to set the correct output voltage depending on input voltage (without clipping of course). Example:5 Max Output Capable is 10. you input 2, output is 10 (set correctly) you input 3, output is cut while trying to produce 15. (clipped) you input 1, output is 5. (not full potential) ^This is just made up, but do you get the idea of varying inputs causing varying outputs and clipping if pushed too far. And then you throw in an adjuster (gain knob) to match the input to achieve max output.

Make sure it's wired correctly, if the actual sensor is bad then It would have gone off before you put the aftermarket alarm in. At least that's my guess, makes sense.

Plus there isn't a big enough demand for it in the car audio industry. 80% or 90% of car audio products sold are cheap shit. For every person with a nice setup, there's fifty with their sony xplods and 1200watt max amplifiers that use lamp cord for their power and grounds...