swift

Awesome Build!!! Love the box. Could you tell me what router and jig set that is. Been looking to get one for awhile now. Thanks

My box in my truck is 3.65 tuned at 29hz and it slams also. Good vid

2 10's over one 12 all day if it were me

Sorry I meant to put this in the build log section. Here we go. Straight cuts via Milwaukee and Diablo Assembly All done and edges smoothed, It will be getting carpet tonight. This thing should really pound when he gets some real subs and amp. I am gonna push for him to run some SSA or FI subs and Sundown amp equipment.

Typically the longer the wire is the bigger I like it, the shorter it doesnt matter much. Its not gonna be a big deal either way

Starting a box for a friend tomorrow. He has 2 12in kicker cvr's in a prefab box with the ports stuffed with towels because it's way to small to be ported. Lol I will be building a 5 cu box tuned at 32hz. Dimensions are 36w x26d x15h, port is 5in x 13.5in and around 26 in long. It will be 3/4, double baffled and 1in dowel braced. He doesn't have much power JLa1400 (500rms) Should be good for when he can get some real subs and a bigger amp. It's going in a Cadillac deville trunk rear facing. Opinions are welcome., although after spending about a hour making the cut sheet I am pretty set on it, lol. Can post pics during build if anyone wants to see it, should be a huge improvement!!

I am running the Rockford T2 components up front and they are loud as shit. Sound really good too, In my rear I am running Alpine Type R coaxials. They sound good and take a ton of power. I would do 6.5's in the rear if I were you. I am running alot of power to it all and they all take it well, I have 150rms going to each channel. (Alpine PDX 4.150)

This!! Just as I said. Set the sub level on the deck to max, then set amp gains. The sub level on the deck will not send a clipped signal, only when you turn you volume up past that 75-80% range. Then it will be clipped regardless were it is. It's only a level control, same as a level control knob that comes with a sundown amp. Turn that bish up, then set the gains on amp!

Start over... The Sub Level on the head unit should be at the max (on 15) The Bass Boost on amp should be at 0 (or all the way down) Subsonic should be at around 25hz Low pass should be at around 65-80hz Put you head unit volume at around 75% (example my Alpine head unit will go to 35, but volume will never see above 26. (Thats what I consider full tilt if demoing) Now with the loudest most banging song you have or even better a test tone. Then with the gain on amp down low, slowly turn the gain on the amp up until you hear the absolute slightest sign of distortion or clipping and then back it down until that is gone. (unless you have a DMM) This will normally happen about halfway up or alittle past. Now your amp and sub are fine and you know what your safe full tilt volume and gains are gonna be. If you want to turn the sub level (on head unit) (I do this with my amp remote knob) down and back up at this point to match up with certain music you can do so. As long as you remember not to turn your volume on the head unit past the loudest volume level you matched the gains to you should be ok. But always listen for any distortion. My mids and highs are set this same way.

Use a beauty panel made from 3/4 mdf (carpet it) and then use the thick rubber foam insulation (for truck campers, door seals, etc) and put all the way around to line edges, and on the inner side around box. You can buy it at Advanced Auto or other parts store. This will give it a good seal without any mess. then just use some brackets on inside to secure panel. THIS http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Front-Rail-Seal-AmeriSeal_10017537-P_N3456_T|GRP2050_____

He is not gonna go wrong with either choice! But this statement is very misleading. My preference is to get loud and low and I choose the Q and it was a very good choice. Both subs are rated at 1500rms, Both are gonna beat the piss out of the vehicle. Flip a coin, with either choice if setup correctly it's gonna seriously pound.

I would think the Q's will hit the lower notes harder. Dont let anyone fool you, the Q's get brutally loud and do great getting beat on daily. I heard two 18in BL's tuned at 28hz and my one 15Q hit the lows much more cleanly (mine is tuned to 29hz). Different installs different vehicles so I know that doesnt mean much but after hearing each sub and after owning a 15in Q and running a SAZ1500 on it for over a year know no way I would choose a BL over the Q.

I have a friend that I am helping and recently built a killer ported box for. He has a 98 F150 regular cab. The box is 2.3cuft and tuned to 33hz with the sub forward port to drivers side. He has a Memphis PR 12 d4 that is decent I guess but his biggest problem is the Sony Xplode 1000 watt amp. "POS" running it. I have it wired to 2 ohms and it dont like it, gets hot after only one or two songs, etc. Wired at 8 ohms it just doesnt power the sub enough. Last night I installed a set of Massive Audio VK6 6.5 components that was a huge improvement over the stock speakers lol. They are running off the head unit and sound fine. Even trying to advice him not to, he went to a local audio store and bought the memphis sub for 130 bucks, its only rated at 250rms and I am trying to talk him into getting a FI or SSA sub but that may be later on. What should I talk him into at this point? I was thinking a Sundown 100.4 to power the components and the sub. But if he steps up to a better sub then maybe just add a mono amp at that point and dedicate the 100.4 to mids and highs? A new Dcon or Used Xcon or FIQ would be ideal but finding those at his budget is hard to do. Suggestions, What would yall do first?

Email was sent through this site but I guess it didn't go through. Mine is [email protected] Thanks alot

Double checked everything and unfortunately still doesn't work. Will send you an email, thanks

Thanks You very much! I will check the amp today to make sure it wasnt some simple mistake on my end before we go through the trouble.

Just wondering if you're talking about your remote gain knob or not. I have noticed on my 2kd that same thing, almost a turn on pop everytime I turn it to the all the way down position and just one click above it. It never concerned me enough to mention it before, but now it has me questioning how normal that is. That's exactly what I'm describing. It didn't do it for the first 6 months but progressively gotten worse. Didn't get to check the amp out tonight but will try tomorrow

I would love for it to be something that simple, I never even thought of that since I had the previous problem. I will double check all connections when I get home tonight. Thanks

That would seem that way but thats just not the case here. The amp was installed has has been great for about 9 months then the first issue occurred out of the blue. Then sent for repair. Electrical is the stock HD alternator, 2 Optima Red tops and all 1 /0 guage. Running the amp at 1 ohm to a dual 2ohm FI Q15. I have a volt meter in the truck also and at full tilt it has never gone below 12.8 or so and thats with all lights on and trailer hooked up with all its light on, etc at night. Truck sits at 14.1-13.8 normally. Lights do not dim. here is my build log It went to DB-R. The only thing they couldnt fix was my gain knob. It has slight static when you turn the knob from all the way down to barely on. They said they didnt have any in the buliding and if I wanted another one to maybe see if I could get it shipped from you guys. They did not seem real concerned that that could cause problems. It it alittle annoying but not THAT big of a deal. I figured I would get around to it eventually, But honestly now I think it may be the cause of my problem. Because when it failed I went to turn the gain knob from off to on and heard the pop and shut off. Now it just shuts off as soon as power is ran to it. I am not sure if that could even do anything but thought I should mention it. I could take the cover off and take a picture if that would help but I sure wouldnt know what I was looking at.

Well, had my amp back working fine for about 3 weeks and now same thing again. As soon as I turn power on maybe 2 seconds later I hear a loud pop through sub and amp cuts off and goes into protection mode. The first time they said the inputs failed and they said the put stronger ones in this time. Could this be something different? This is frustrating, what do I do?

To put that little effort into packing a sub that cost that much is ridiculous. Everyone who ships anything regularly knows what kind of stress it is put through so it is up to the shipper to package it properly. The Carrier putting a forklift through a box is totally different! I own a moving business and we specialize in Packing and Crating and it is not too difficult, time consuming or cost too much to package something properly.

Hopefully I will have the amp out today and sent this week. been swamped at work

After they break in I imagine that shit will be brutal. Probably is now right behind your head, lol

I didnt check the measurements but you will need more port area.

Will do thanks