deernet

The pass through signal isn't crossed over. It is the same signal that is received from the input.

Nice video.

lol try and put a system in the back of a van..... see how loud you are then. I am pretty sure if I put the same system in the POS you drive, it'd break the car while do 55's lol. And we all know your lying man, just chill out. I'm not going to say your lying, although I think that you probably are. I just find it odd that you supposedly work in a car audio shop: Best way to learn how to install your own car audio - SSA Car Audio Forum Yet, you don't know what to do with a new sub: screw holes in fi bl blocked with foam?? - SSA Car Audio Forum Something doesn't seem right here...

This thing is epic! Your son is lucky to have a father that is so into car audio and so eager to help to create something unique and custom. Great job!

Clothes off by Gym Class Heroes? I couldn't pick out many of the lyrics, but a lot of times, you can do a google search and type in "lyrics: "random lyrics from song"" and usually find good results.

Hey Einstein, 2/4 is a 1/2! You need to check and see if the 3rd grade will take you back! Maybe then, you'll have a chance not sound like a derelict when you attempt to write. Not cool dude, this forum is for constructive comments and suggestions, not trying to tear someone down over a typo.

I'm betting that any performance loss you get from running a second alternator won't be noticeable. I would have done it on my truck if I was able to fit two alternators. As I said before, you also get the benefit of being able to use your system with the truck not running, and not having to worry about draining your starting battery.

What kind of vehicle? Maybe you could get a bracket made to run two alternators and keep your stock electrical separate. Then you could run 16v with no problems.

Alright. I'll get the 270 amp alternator from DC Power and take it from there. Thanks for the help Something else you might consider is seeing if you can find a dual alternator bracket for your truck. Then you could keep the stock alternator running the stock electrical and run the DC Power to a second battery and run your system from that. That way, you have no chance of accidentally draining your starting battery.

Agreed. Read the manual and see if the internal amplifier can be turned off. I had the same problem with an Alpine HU one time.

is 15v safe on the cars electrical or a bad idea? Probably a bad idea. I would try to stay below 14. It would suck to fry your ECU.

I would LOVE to get one of the original ones.

Lolz, everyone's an idiot, and your the one that can't spell. Infinite is the opposite of finite, meaning having a beginning and end.

That's dependent on the amplifier. ..Ok lets get more specific "MAJORITY" of amps put out more at lower ohms. Lol, okay question is do SAZ-1500D's put out more at lower ohms? And can 12" XCON's D2's handle the output? If you'd do a little research, you could answer all your own questions, and probably feel better about doing it. Here is a little something to get you started: Sundown Audio - SAZ-1500D Sound Solutions Audio - XCON Series Subwoofers

And how would you go about having a second isolated alternator, I'm all ears. And why necessarily keep your electrical "seperate"? Or am I misunderstanding you? OP, what do you need a second alternator for? How many batteries do you have/ plan to have in the future? Also what kind of dual alternator set ups have you looked into, also what brands? You would have the hot from the alternator running to a second battery, running your system, while the stock alternator only has to deal with stock electrical. You would keep them seperate so that if for some reason your second battery is draining, like when you don't have the vehicle running, it could go dead and you would still have the main battery to start your vehicle. Wouldn't have to worry about your system drawing excess current, except for the safety of your equipment. Wouldn't have to deal with lights dimming, you would still have stock electrical with no aditional draw.

A gain knob makes a lot less sense to me than a bass boost knob. I mean, you shouldn't have the need to be adjusting your gain all the time, and really probably shouldn't mess with the bass boost, but I guess its a marketing thing...

Is it throwing any codes? O2 sensor maybe?

Yes, you can, and yes, I would run it to a second battery, and keep the audio separate from the stock electrical.

You get an equalizer and can set distance corrections. The JL cleansweep looks a lot better to me, comes with microphones to calibrate your speakers, and a touch screen. I've never used either unit myself though.

I saw something on Fox News the other day about a new system that picks up OTA broadcasts from this company that doesn't require you to use a dish. I can't think of the name of it though, I'll do some searching and try and post a link later. From what it said right now it only works in metro areas though.

FWIW, I think Alpine HU's are the shit. If you have a double DIN opening in your car, I would try to get one of the double DIN players that don't slide out, thats something less that you have to worry about breaking. Check out Craigslist, I've seen some great deals on slightly used DVD players, and most people would be willing to let you hook it up and check it out before you buy.

From what I have read it's not bad to use. Some people don't use them while others do. I havn't hooked mine up yet, but plan on doing so to see how it sounds and reacts. If I don't like it with the bass boosted then I can always remove it. If you choose to use it to boost your bass turn the bass boost all the way up at the amp and then turn it down to zero on the bass boost knob. The remote know overrides the dial on the amp from what I gather. You will need to set your gain(s) where you plan on keeping your bass knob. Remember you can always turn it down from where you set it. But it will of course reduce your voltage to the subs in doing so. Typically bass boost is around 45Hz. So use that test tone to set your gains on the amp. Maybe someone else with more knowledge will also reply with better opinions or facts. DO NOT turn the bass boost or the gain all the way up on the amp. It can, and probably will damage your sub. As you said, it overrides the bass boost/gain on the amplifier, so it would be smart to turn it to minimum on the amp so in the case that your bass/gain knob gets unhooked accidentally, you won't damage your sub.

Cool video. I thought it was going to show a recone being done from the title though. Really like the editing at the beginning though.

Wrong.