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The UPS and FedEx men should be hittin me up an awful lot soon too. I'm expecting a Mechman alternator, BTL 18, some Knukonceptz cables, RE XXX 6.5s, and my T1500 just came a couple days ago. I'll post pics when it all gets here, and then pics of the install will follow. Your shit looks awesome though man.

you don't even have a car... Lulz

Is it available to download somewhere? I like the DJ Dirty mixtapes, my favorite track is "Shone Flo", I think its on Codeine and Blunts.

MMATS 2075.Absolute beast , old school and rare as hell - eBay (item 330422757207 end time Apr-15-10 18:10:55 PDT) MMATS 2025. Old school and NEW IN BOX !! no manual thou - eBay (item 330422758711 end time Apr-15-10 18:17:31 PDT) If I had the extra cash I'd probably try and get the 2075, but I just blew all my money on a set of RE XXX 6.5s today.

Must not be looking hard enough... Mercedes-Benz Mixed Tape Vol. 01-17 (unpacked) torrent - Electronic torrents - Music torrents - ExtraTorrent.com The World's Largest BitTorrent System I just found out about these, theirs some great stuff in there.

No, I mean I'm going to build it exactly like it is in the picture, but face the enclosure so that the sub is firing towards the roof of the vehicle.

Great thread, this stuff is really going to help me out when I set up my system whenever all my shit gets here. I ordered some XXX components today, they're going to be run off a P3002, they're 2 ohm components, so they'll be getting 150 watts a piece. So I guess I'll start off with setting the gains on my T1500-1 with a DMM, with the crossover at 80, and also set the crossover at 80 on the P3002, but adjust the gains by ear?

Glad I saw this thread, are the knukonceptz distribution blocks bad too? I was going to order one of those with the volt gauge on it when they get in stock.

What I meant by changing the geometry is that it would make the port wider all the way back to where it goes into the main chamber. Plus, it would leave part of the brace not supporting anything. I think it will probably sound just as good doing it like the original design, I'll be facing it up, and have windows on both of the long sides. Your probably right, that I'm thinking about it too much, I just want to make sure that its done right after I've spent so much on a sub, I want to have the box as close to perfect as I can. Another question, I was planning on using a terminal cup. I've seen where a lot of people on here have just used bolts run through the box, but I thought the terminal cup would make it look cleaner. I think I'll either use one of the dual terminal cups or use two so that I can use one set of contacts for the LEDs. Anyone think theirs a better way to go about it?

I've got a P3002 that I got used for a hundred bucks. Right now I've got it hooked to a pair of Memphis twelves at one ohm on one channel. I know its not stable at one ohm, but it works fine unless you turn the bass knob over 3/4 then it will cut off. When my BTL 18 gets here my new T1500 will be taking over sub duty and I'm going to use the P3002 on some RE XXX 6.5 components. That works out great since the components are 2 ohm, and the link you gave says the P3002 will put out 179 per channel.

Alright, I appreciate it man.

Bump, BanginGMC, you have contact info for that guy? If I'm going to get it done, I'd like to go ahead and do it. My BTL should be here soon, and I'd like to get it painted before I get my box built and everything ready.

Never seen one in person, but from what I've read and seen online, I would say the RE XXX 18. I think it weighs almost 80 pounds and does 2000 rms. I just ordered a BTL 18, its also rated 2000 rms and weighs around 70 pounds, I'm hoping I'll be happy with it.

^^^^ x2 I thought this forum was for helping people with their setups, and to get ideas from what other people have done, not to bash on people for not having the biggest subs...

Your alternator doesn't "kick on", it doesn't have a clutch like an AC compressor. Whenever your engine is running, your alternator is charging. That's partially correct. There is no clutch on your alt, but the alt does not charge to it's full capacity at all times. So, if he is running a power hungry amp, it will strain the alt and make her charge at a higher amperage than usual to compensate for the voltage drop that is occuring. Will that make for more resistance on the alt/ drivebelt system? I'm not sure........ I know its not always charging at full capacity, but it is always charging when the engine is running. I'm pretty sure that there is no increased resistance to the drive belt when the alternator is putting out higher amperage, I don't see how there could be.

So what exactly does that allow you to do? Change the output voltage? How do you adjust it? Yes. If you bought an alternator from Mechman with an external voltage regulator, there will be a small red metal piece on the back. On that, there is a set screw to adjust the voltage from 14.4 - 17 or 18 volts. I cant remeber off hand exactly how high it goes but its enough. Yeah, I ordered my 270 amp from them about a week ago and asked about the external regulator. They told me that you really only need it if your competing, so I opted not to get it for now. Mine should be here any day, I can't wait. I didn't realize that they were so close to me until I ordered. They're in Knoxville, TN, which is just like 45 minutes away from me. I just had them ship it, I think it was free or close to it. If I end up buying an XS Power battery from them in the future, I'll just go pick it up to avoid the high shipping cost.

Your alternator doesn't "kick on", it doesn't have a clutch like an AC compressor. Whenever your engine is running, your alternator is charging.

OK, as per this picture, I was talking about the port being on the bottom. I think that would make the port height 23 3/4 ID instead of 22 in. ID. I've been thinking about this alot though, and that would change the whole geometry of the port. I think I'll just go with the original design and then I won't have to worry about it. I am going to put in some either 6x12" or 12x12" 3/4 plexi windows though. As per the picture, I'll be putting them on the top and bottom of the box, on opposite sides of the sub. I'll be putting double pieces of MDF on the top and bottom so that I can mount the windows flush. I'm going to order the plexiglass from this place: eStreetPlastics - plexiglass sheet supplier They've got 6x12" pieces for $10.69 and 12x12" pieces for $18.49 a piece. I'm also going to get some LEDs from this place: LED Module Aluminum Housing High Power The wide angle one is the same one that Steve Meade used in the 2x T15K Escalade build. I've got a question though, should I use caulk on all the angles inside the box? I mean if I use wood glue on all seams, it should be pretty air tight, but some silicon caulk couldn't hurt, right? I've seen in a lot of Steve's builds he'll fiberglass the inside of enclosures, what advantages do you get from that, just a tighter seal? If I end up using the bedliner on the outside, that will be an extra layer of shit that should give some sealing properties I would think.

I'm pretty sure I got that issue sittin' around here...somewhere... So do i i actually know him, I hung out with him and the guys who painted and airbrushed his truck at the last Sema show. He's selling it though.. One Of A Kind Show Truck So do you have any contact info for him?

If he's done work for SEMA, I'd say he's also over my budget. Being out of area isn't really a big deal, I wouldn't care to ship it. Nope, he's very reasonable and respects other peoples wallets. I am getting my amps, truck, and interior done from him. Well, you think you could maybe show him the picture and ask him for an estimate? I'd appreciate it man. The UPS man JUST NOW brought my amp, it's awesome! On the birth sheet it says it does 1796 watts at 1 ohm. I can't wait till my BTL gets here and I get this shit hooked up. Are you wanting that done to your amp? -- i missed it if its listed somewhere but what amp is it? Dimensions? Do you just want the face of the amp airbrushed? Yeah man, it's a Fosgate T1500-1bd. The dimensions are 8.14 x 14.91 (in), but the outside part wouldn't need to be painted, as is the picture.

If he's done work for SEMA, I'd say he's also over my budget. Being out of area isn't really a big deal, I wouldn't care to ship it. Nope, he's very reasonable and respects other peoples wallets. I am getting my amps, truck, and interior done from him. Well, you think you could maybe show him the picture and ask him for an estimate? I'd appreciate it man. The UPS man JUST NOW brought my amp, it's awesome! On the birth sheet it says it does 1796 watts at 1 ohm. I can't wait till my BTL gets here and I get this shit hooked up.

Yeah, when I ordered my BTL the other day it worked perfect.

I'll try that, thanks. Edit: The email didn't work.

Yeah, I don't want to put any stickers on my amp. Once you get more confidence in your skills, shoot me a PM and maybe we can work something out.

If you've got any power tools I would suggest that you try to build it yourself. There are plenty of designs out there, some great ones right here on this site. After you build the first one, you'll never think about buying another.