deernet

That is one badass setup.

I also emailed [email protected], but got the email about high message volume, so figured it would be best to post also. Hope I can get this changed.

You'll have to recone to change to dual 1.

I ordered a BTL 18 today, dual 1 ohm, and I was wanting to see if I could change it to dual 2. I'm using a RF T-1500, and I got to thinking that with the dual 1 I would either be able to run a half ohm load or 2 ohm. I'd like to change it to dual 2 since the amp isn't stable at a half ohm. My invoice number is: I-14072/00 Thanks for the help!

Try hitting up your local welding supply, they'll probably even put them on for free.

Well, I went ahead and ordered the Mechman alternator. I also ordered an Fi BTL 18, fully loaded. I'm excited to say the least. As for the enclosure for the BTL, I think I'm going to use the optimal design for the XCON thats on the site here. Its 7.65 cubic feet. The only thing I think I'll change is to make the port be on the side instead of on the same side as the driver. I want to have the sub facing up towards the top of my vehicle and the port facing forward towards the front of the vehicle. Does anyone see any issues for this design with this driver?

Bump, I'm going to order the Mechman alternator today, opinions?

The Herculiner is great stuff goes on with a roller and can put on as many coats as needed. Best thing is it doesn't stink! So it's the regular bed liner, right? Not something made just for boxes? About how much did it cost you?

DC Power or Mechman.

I really like the Herculiner, I'm fixing to build a box myself, I think I'll try it out. It's just the regular bed liner isn't it? Also, where did you get that Tsunami voltage meter? I googled it and couldnt find one. I did find this badass thing they make that fits on top of an Optima battery and is a big distribution block, I'm thinking about getting one of those.

Parts-Express.com:�1/4"-20 Deluxe 6-Prong T-Nuts 50 Pcs. | t nut t-nut fastener insert nut machine screw Cool, I haven't seen those before. I thought I was pretty up on my hardware since I've worked construction, but I guess you learn something everyday. Those look like they would be a lot better than using wood screws. So do you just drill a 5/16 hole and beat the T-nut in? I'm glad I found this thread, I'm going to use those in my next box.

A Napa Power 65, its 710 cranking amps at 32 F. Last night at work two or three people were trying to convince me that I didn't need a high output alternator, that I should just get a capacitor. I tried to convince them that capacitors don't work and are a marketing gimmick, but to no avail. Someone suggested adding a second battery with my stock alternator, but I don't think that would do much good, and it seems like it would put a lot of strain on the stock alternator, I could be wrong though. This is my first system over 1000 watts, and I know Fosgate stuff is usually underrated, so I figured I should be prepared rather than risk my amp. Thats something else the people at work were trying to convince me of, that an underpowered system couldn't hurt an amplifier. I mean I know I don't know everything about car audio, hell I guess I don't know a lot, but I try to learn what I can, and use common sense. Some people just act like they know everything and can't be convinced otherwise. Another question I have is about external regulators for high output alternators. I saw a thread on here where someone was talking about them, but I didn't see a really good explanation. I'm not sure if Mechman offers them or not. Do they let you adjust the output voltage of the alternator, or what do they do?

I just made a deal to sell my glock, I'm going to use the money from that to order the Mechman alternator tomorrow. I'm hoping that will be enough to run the amp. If not, I guess I'll get an XS Power battery. Do ya'll think I should go ahead and try to get the 3100, or would a smaller battery be alright for the T1500?

I'm pretty sure you can already buy something like that that will turn two 1/0s into one. I know I've used similar adapters in industrial electricity. Try an electrical wholesale.

wtf??? ya lets not hook 2-12v batteries in series and not feed the amp 24vdc lol!! try hooking them in parrellel unless you are hooking 2-6vdc batteries in series! also if you have 1/0 going into the amp make sure you have 1/0 going out of the amp!! theere was a guy on here who wanted to do 1/0 in and 4awg out b/c he didn'thave enough 1/0 for a ground lol!!! some ppl kids! jsut making sure you don't do this. LOL, yeah my bad, I mean in parallel. I'd just got done working 12 hours when I wrote that.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.

The Mechman is 165 at 800 rpm, 270 amp full output by 1800 rpm.

Allright, I see you've got a DC Power alternator, the Mechman one for my truck is a little cheaper and claims to have higher output, I'm not really sure which one I'll go with.

The alternator in the truck is good, but its stock, I figured it'd be good to get a high output alternator from DC Power or Mechman first. I'd like to get a XS Power 3100 battery, I figure it would be better to go ahead and put it in the back,. When putting a second one in the back, do you wire it from the alternator also?

It will work, I don't really see the point though. I think the only reason to turn two runs into one at the amp would be if the runs were so long that there was substantially increased resistance, which on any normal car audio run, there shouldn't be. Or maybe if you were using multiple batteries, but in that case I think you should hook the batteries in series.

Currently I've got a P3002 and two Memphis twelves and a Memphis 15. I'm planning on upgrading my wiring to 1/0, and thinking I'll probably need an upgraded alternator. Someone in another thread said something about needing extra batteries for a T1500, I was thinking I'd be okay with the alternator. Opinions? By the way, I'm planning on ordering a BTL 18 next. I'm also looking for ideas on box design. Its going in an Explorer, so I've got plenty of room. I want the sub facing the roof and the port facing the front. Planning on making a amp rack out of some plexi too, I'll have to post some pics.

You really think you need TWO extra batteries for a T-1500? I just ordered a new one and was thinking I'd be alright with an upgraded alternator.

What's a T-nut? A toggle bolt? That's the only way I can figure being able to use a bolt in a wood box.

Heres a great site, Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams Just put in the number of woofers, and the impedance, and it will show you diagrams of how they can be wired.

Damn dude, you can't do anything with it, leave it alone. Your probably pissing off your mom by messing with her car anyways. Wait until you get a car, a job, and then money from said job, and come back. You can't do something with nothing.