mrbojang

Awesome! Glad to hear it. Can't wait

So I got rid of the sae-1200dv2 and got this in the mail today (thanks Jacob, you rule!): I'm also expecting 6 sundown sa-10's once Jacob gets his shipment... Going to go buy a couple batteries this weekend. Next weekend I'll upgrade to big 3, run some 0 gauge, and see what kind of progress I can make with a battery holder for the rear cargo area. Build is going to take awhile, but it's worth the wait!

That's kind of my concern too, I don't want to cause a hazard under any situation... This is what I'm thinking now, not sure how strong it'd be... Getting some strong wood, securing it with the factory bolts in the rear cargo area as like a "floor", then attaching wood with glue\wood screws to build sides\a compartment for the batteries to the wood flooring, and then finally getting battery hold downs screwed into the wood... Do you think that would be strong enough to not rip apart in a roll over? I know it depends on what kind of wood...I'd use whatever's the strongest.. Its wood bro, any kind of wood will break in a roll over, fuck... engine blocks break in a roll over, rides get torn apart in roll overs. Imagine building what you want to build then throw it off the roof of your house, if it wouldn't break then i'd say its good to go. Or do the same with taking a sledge hammer to it and hitting it as hard as a human bean can possible hit it. A accident like a roll over can pretty must destroy anything in its path, ya feel me? I'd say welded metal. Yeah, I think you're right. I can secure the METAL battery tray to my cargo area with bolts...As far as the box...Secure it to the factory bolts I suppose? It'll rip off the bolts though in a collision? I think if I'm in a roll over I'm screwed anyways but there's no harm in minimizing possible projectiles...

That's kind of my concern too, I don't want to cause a hazard under any situation... This is what I'm thinking now, not sure how strong it'd be... Getting some strong wood, securing it with the factory bolts in the rear cargo area as like a "floor", then attaching wood with glue\wood screws to build sides\a compartment for the batteries to the wood flooring, and then finally getting battery hold downs screwed into the wood... Do you think that would be strong enough to not rip apart in a roll over? I know it depends on what kind of wood...I'd use whatever's the strongest..

Nice. What kind of wood did you use for the floor piece?

So this weekend I'm going to purchase another battery and start working on a battery rack\holder for the rear cargo area of my tahoe. I'll be running one battery there, but eventually I'll add more...A couple questions.. 1. Should I use wood to construct it? I heard MDF flexes over time? Would I be better off getting a friend who can weld to come up with something with metal? 2. It should probably be secured to something, right? I'm not sure if I want to start drilling a bunch of holes in the truck...Any ideas? 3. What are the max dimensions of a group 31 battery? 4. Anyone have any pictures of their battery setup and how it's secured? Thanks.

By open slot, what do you mean? Did you just wrap the stands of wire around the fuse and stuff it in? Autozone\Discount auto sells a fuse plug with a wire running out of it. Alot cleaner than just stuffing a wire in there. it's called a fuse plug tap.

SSA is always at the top of my list.

Shipped fast though? Kind of hard to not include a part of a battery...lol.

Shopping around for batteries and stumbled on: http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Website/NEW-KINETIK-KR2712-KHC2000-POWER-CELL-RACING-BATTERY/KR2712.aspx Site seems kind of sketch. Anyone have any experience with them? Not sure if it's even acceptable to link to other stores here..

Wow man. The rear window flex is awesome.

Sweet!

yeah i a few of those too.. rapers, murderers, crooks,, dope dealers, and kid nappers,..... but thanks... anything else my little spell check? yeah i a few of those too.. rapers, murderers, crooks,, dope dealers, and kid nappers,..... Just busting your balls man. I checked out some songs by trae and they're pretty good.

anyhow i friended many people.. and they were in the music scene so while going everywhere my boys went i met alot of people and hung out with alot of rapers what?

I think efficiency hasn't changed because the speaker technology hasn't changed (still piston and magnet). I would bet the old Cerwin Vega 18" stroker were pretty high as far as efficiency. Says herethat it has 96 dB sensitivity (1w/1m). Also woofersetclists the 12" stroker's efficiency as 92 dB, so it would make sense that the 18's would be something like 96. Ah. I was reading about Phoenix Gold Cyclones just now..Can't seem to find an efficiency rating, although someone mentioned they probably are the most efficient.

I was just reading the thread discussing running DVC subs off one coil compared to both and there was also talk of sub woofer efficiency...That got me thinking, what is the most efficient driver available for mobile audio applications? Also why is efficiency generally so bad? Given technological progress with computers, phones, etc you would think there would be great leaps in sound and driver efficiency also? Have drivers made progress over the past 20 years?

So I'm now leaning towards getting a DCPower 270 amp HO alt, and a Kinitek hc2400. Sound solid enough?

I'm using a scosche loc-80 now and it works fine. I haven't measured the voltage coming out of it though I would imagine it's low. I tried running a sae-1200dv2 off of it and for whatever reason the crossover on the amp would not work properly, however it would work fine with an external crossover (you might not need this). It works fine with my directed 1200/5. Just hook the LOC upto your rear channels. Are you trying to use a LOC or add a headunit? I'm confused after reading your post again.

Thanks, hopefully it will be! I've been thinking about it, and I'm leaning towards spending $700 on batteries for the rear compared to a HO alt, run the stock alternator, and then upgrade to a HO alt later, or a dual bracket + HO alt if I feel I need it. So any suggestions on batteries that would work, around $700? I took measurements of the space I have to work with. It's roughly 3ft 8 inches long x 4ft wide. I'm going to be giving each sub 1.3cubic feet in a vented enclosure..Not sure how much room that leaves me for batteries, but I'm thinking I have plenty..(Right?) Amps will be secured under the rear seats.

It's a 4.8-liter V8.

Alright. I'll get the 270 amp alternator from DC Power and take it from there. Thanks for the help Something else you might consider is seeing if you can find a dual alternator bracket for your truck. Then you could keep the stock alternator running the stock electrical and run the DC Power to a second battery and run your system from that. That way, you have no chance of accidentally draining your starting battery. I was considering that but wouldn't I take a pretty big performance hit? Engine wise and gas mileage wise? Having another thing going through the belt? I've seen dual brackets for my truck. Your talking about running 6 beefy 10"s, 2 large batteries, large amps, and the wood for the box. And your worried about performance? Your joking, right? Haha I was considering that while I typed that out, but why add even more of a performance hit with dual alternators? I don't expect to be racing people, it's a truck. I just don't want to get <10mpg.

Alright. I'll get the 270 amp alternator from DC Power and take it from there. Thanks for the help Something else you might consider is seeing if you can find a dual alternator bracket for your truck. Then you could keep the stock alternator running the stock electrical and run the DC Power to a second battery and run your system from that. That way, you have no chance of accidentally draining your starting battery. I was considering that but wouldn't I take a pretty big performance hit? Engine wise and gas mileage wise? Having another thing going through the belt? I've seen dual brackets for my truck.