An-i-no

What are these songs you are referring to? http://www.****/forum/general-car-audio-discussion-questions/16577-decafs-loud-screwed-demo-collection-2-23-22-zips.html Here's most of his stuff. You have to download the whole zip and extract it with Winrar (just google it if you dont have it.) That's one of his youtube vids. He shows off some of his songs there. Too bad I can't play any of em... Lol censor > me. Just google "Decaf's loud screwed demo collection."

Don't <-----Is in mad need of more bass I'm about ready to free air em....I bet they'd still play lower than these old ass pioneers

Someone talk me out of buying a prefab sealed box for my SA-12's just to have SOMETHING below 35hz. I can't take staring at the boxes and then going outside and having to play decaf songs with the sub at -7db....

Hell yeah, I feel you on the shipping thing. That's one reason I like to save up money and buy a bunch of stuff at once. Free shipping will sometimes be the difference between whatever online store and ebay...lol

Do you know how much of a difference he will see using the "ofc" over the "cca"..... None. You could be right. Until I see a straight up voltage drop/heat/current capacity test that says so then I'll keep buying copper. Hmm, it seems like I'm bashing CCA. I'm not, it's just that the copper wire is better at the intended purpose (carrying current). He asked the difference, right?

That's an unfair comparison. The KCA is cheaper for a reason. In all truths the WS wire, being ofc, is simply a better proudct. Copper wire > Aluminum wire. Period.

Heck yeah since it's just big 3 wire.

KCA is copper clad aluminum. It doesn't carry current nearly as good as Copper. 0 Gauge KCA would roughly carry as much current as 4ga Kolossus. People will recommend to either use two runs of the KCA or to use a size up (like 4ga up to 0ga) but both of those (I think) cost more than just using Copper wire to start with. Just save a lil money and get the Kolossus Fleks. It's worth the extra cost. EDIT: Lol Reading > Me. I'm not sure if you want to use it under the hood as the KCA is more prone to heat buildup. I suppose if you're using 0ga on a stock alt then you might be ok. I would still just get a size smaller copper wire knowing it would run cooler and be more efficient if I was really pressed for cash. Or just do a part of the big 3 now and a part later if you absolutely have to have something now.

Yeah I just noticed it was stamped (I think? Can't really tell). I was thinking it was cast. Motor structure is small too but I wasn't expecting a 8 inch wide triple stack lol

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34766_Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12.html The styling on that bish is craaaaazy. I just want to know from designer's and manufacturer's how much thought goes into the looks department of a sub, or...any product for that matter. I know there's you "I could care less how it looks, it's all about performance" but to me that's almost never true. Those blue ass "HIFONICS" logos and smooth one piece dustcaps like the AA Havoc has all add to the final product. (Not saying you should buy a Hifonics or Rockford P3 or even a Havoc just for looks) So I just want input from other people. I'll probably get mad hate for puttin the Rockford link, but all their new stuff is really pretty. I have no idea how it performs but it's damn pretty. The glossy cones on the component sets and the trim rings and grills that come with the subs are friggin awesome. I love my SA-12, but if it came with a color-matched trim ring that said "SUNDOWN-AUDIO" on the outside I'd love it even more. EDIT: Had an idiot moment. "Color-matched" with black and white? LOL @ me.

Wait what? When did I say that? I have 2 SA-12's? This isn't for ME, this is a build I'm planning for someone else. I said if I wanted to do a small build like her's it'd be four Fi X 10's, sorry. And to Nick, I'd love for her to do one SSD 15 but duh.

If it was me I'd have four Fi x 10's! But it's for a cousin who is still a skeptic. She heard my Hertz HSK's and was blown away (hehe so fun to do that) but I don't have my SA-12's running to show her how awesome 30hz is. So for right now I'm thinking two tens until I find out how much she wants to spend.

Word. Thanks guys. Anyone have any more mainstream stuff. Type S/R? Fogate P2/3? Pioneer? I'm looking for anything.

Damn mang. Did NOT mean to start this ish... Anyways figured I might as well update. These Knu's are ballin. The jacket is way more flexible but duhhh. They'll be easier to run and most importantly won't break mah stuffzz. Oh and having one 2 channel and one 4 channel is another plus. That is all. They both do the same damn thing, but the Knu's fit my application better If you've ever seen the first Men in Black, running the Monoprice rca's (keep in mind I had 3 25ft ones.) was like the baby squid scene....

Sarcasm?......my intrawebz sarcas-o-meter is broken....

Hey I'm in the planning stages of a build for my cousin. She knows absolutely nothing about car audio but I'm slowly changing that. I have a request for you guys though... Show me some Fi X's, DCON's, 187's, anything. I need some good pictures of stuff around that price/power range. I know all of those have stock photos but I wanna see some upside down and in boxes and all that. Thanks in advance.

No prob! They're great guys and I'd love for them to have more business...I wish they sold more brands.

Don't know if you got Shok already but you can get it from vertexaudio.com http://www.vertexaudio.com/store/pc/Power-Wire-c62.htm

I used 12 for my doors and it was hell in a microwave. Use 16. Don't worry about it not being big enough. It'll do exactly what you need it to and be WAAAAAY easier to run under carpets and through holes. Also, no problem. I like to give people a hand where I had trouble.

I've never used that amp in particular but I have/had an older pioneer amp and besides running a little hot it never gave me trouble. (My dad gave it to me and he had been using it since 2006. I replaced it a month ago.) The fuse rating is up to par so I see no reason why it wouldn't put out rated power. The crossover you can put anywhere as long as you wire it correctly. One for the left and one for the right (if thats what you were asking? kinda confused.)

Oh hecks yes. Most component sets will say "60wrms" or "80wrms" when you can actually give them say 90, 100, even 120wrms. Just know to back off if they start to strain. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16644_Pioneer-GM-5400T.html This would be perfect if you plan on only amping the fronts and like for your stuff to match. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22382_Pioneer-GM-D9500F.html This one would work if you want to amp all four speakers, or want to bridge the rear channels for a sub. Just do a little bit of shopping. Sundown is always a nice choice, but there are other brands that will get the job done just as nicely.

They come with a 6x8 Adapter.

So, your saying with MT's they are different then all other woofers and don't need magical program to get a box, but all other woofers do? They fact that y'all would even trust a program that much shows a lot about the designs produced form y'all. You still have not specified what you want. Pure SPL numbers? Loud music? No, I'm saying something that was said earlier. You're not the only one with an MT. You could do a quick google search and see what other people have had success with. If you didn't do that then what DID you do? Make up a size and port area? How do you build boxes if you don't model them? He can't just do reasearch. We have NO IDEA what kind of woofers these are (specs wise). We don't know if they're super stiff spl machines or low fs daily beaters. I'd much rather trust a program before I just made up some numbers and tried it. That way I could see that my response would be peaky or saddle shaped WITHOUT having to build a box and test. But how does the program know what's going to happen? It has no clue in reality. It's just saying what other humans have GUESSED would happen and programed it to say.... Not guessed. Calculated. USING MATH. With what numbers I wonder.....oh wait, those T/S specs you ignore. They are given for a reason. They do not suddenly go haywire once you play the woofer. All that happens is the suspension loosens up. Motor force, cone area, moving mass, and several others don't change after you play it? If they were useless, why would manufacturer's go through all the trouble to measure them? EDIT: And you know what, I'm not even saying that you should swear by a program and trust it always. I'm saying that it's a tool to use that can give you a base to build on. It's better than friggin guessing. I'm also not questioning your ability to build boxes. I'm questioning the means by which you design them. (or lack thereof, really.)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html Pioneer awesomeness, great for the money. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15059_Polk-Audio-MM6501.html If you liked Polk before, You could try these. http://www.vertexaudio.com/store/pc/CDT-Audio-COM-626-COX-622-Front-Rear-Package-65p174.htm If you're set on having rears, this would be good. And Hertz HSK and ESK sets can be found on Ebay. Just do a little shopping. I've listened to everything but the ESK and CDT. I'd personally go for the Pioneer's as I liked their sound the best. The Polk's had a little easier tweeter but less midbass than the Pioneer. The Hertz are alot louder and slightly clearer than both the Polk and Pioneer but I had those on a stronger amp. They also had slightly less midbass than the Pioneer. More than the Polk though. But that could've been how I had them eq'd so ignore that nvm.

Are those for these two woofers or the ones they used to be?